mtnickel

It actually is probably a perfect size turbo for a 2.8L. That's a Greddy/Trust Mitsubishi housed turbo. Probably from an aftermarket kit for some import car. A 18g Sized compressor realistically supports about 350whp, but that would be at a high pressure ratio (20-25psi) likely on a smaller engine. On a 2.8L where you will make more HP at a lower boost, it will probably run out of breath a little sooner, but still be good for about 300whp under the 15-18psi mark. That turbine housing is one of the only designs for a T3 flange and a TD05H wheel. it's known as a GM style and typically I believe came on the Typhoon/cyclone. They have designs for them in 6cm, 8cm, and 10cm. The 10.0 number is likely the turbine scroll ratio meaning 10.0cm^2 which equates to about a .7-.8AR ratio in Garett world. Run it and let us know how it goes. Should be a good fit. Only thing I'd be concerned about is whether the wastegate is ported enough. it's not usually a very free flowing wastegate passage, so you may get creep if you try to run a low boost. Then again, i don't know how big it's flapper/port is. On the chinese versions of the same housing, they are much too small. Good luck!

240sx Trans + likely over 400whp might lead to some tranny failures. why not get an adapter plate for a 300zx trans? They are much much beefier.

Does anyone have any information on what's required to fit this listed setup: Z31 late calipers, and vented 240sx front rotors on the rear of an S30. Only other info I found said that the E-brake cable could be trouble. But otherwise would seem like a quality swap what with the 43mm piston and larger rotor.

so it reacts a little differently depending on the sensor?

I would be interested in one...wish the CDN dollar wasn't such a turd right now, but if we can get at least a little off, it would certainly be worth it. Seems like a reasonable price for what is all included. Even if group buy doesn't proceed, I'd be interested in where to buy one. Mark

One thing I would say is that if you're power goals are over what the stock RB25 turbo does, then it's probably wiser to just start with the RB26. I started with the RB25, but wanting 300-325whp, ended up swaping turbos. Then for better intercooler piping added the greddy style manifold. Converted to Top feed injectors. the list goes on. By the time you factor turbo cost, manifold costs, I could have easily just gone with the RB26. Not to mention the 2.6L would have matched my 260z factory displacement (ARGH!). Anyways, just putting that out there in case you haven't ordered yet. The RB26 is often $1200 or so more, plus you need the $750 trans (or convert a z32 trans with bell housing swap). But you can sell your AWD trans too. Good luck with the project! ps. the best engine distributor I read about in Canada was JDMSource.ca

Based on lack of any response, should I assume $0? The box is a pain in my rear. Mark

Or, if the bolt has the spacer in the middle, you can cut 1/4" off the spacer, and then run a die down the bolt to add 1/4" -1/2" of threads. Shortens the assembly marginally, but allows you to get it started. Also, remember not to overtighten or you will split your bushings.

Here's my exhaust vids: Rb25det - td05h 18g - 10cm housing. 3" exhaust - vibrant 3" ultra quiet resonator - 3" magnaflow muffler. https://youtu.be/wnNn852PuXM comments: Very very quiet. Between turbo and 2 mufflers this is not loud even with the 3" pipe. It does however have a touch of drone/resonance. It was much much worse before the tailpipe extended past the body. I put a tip on and it's fairly managable. Could also be a touch loud since i don't have any rear interior stuff in yet. Also the rear rubber isolator is tiny. Probably need to replace that. Tone is very smooth. Nice mellow and low tone. Even when hard on it, still pretty quiet. You hear the turbo air rushing sound much much more. even the bypass valve is loudish and it's re-circ'd back in. Here is the exact same car, but now with the muffler removed: https://youtu.be/G2_tgd71kLY comments: more burble for sure. twice as loud overall. I like the extra bark (higher tones) when on the throttle. I'm torn for now what to do. Plan is to get a lot more miles on both the mufflers. These have seen less than 3hrs driving time. Wait to see if they open up. I have a dynomax superturbo on another daily car (honda) and it was beautifully nice and quiet for the first 2-3 weeks. Months later it 'opened' up a ton and is now twice as loud. So we'll drive it more next spring and see how it sounds then. With both mufflers it's certainly more a sleeper, though it's readily apparent it has a turbo when the exhaust is so quiet. Let me know your thoughts!

I had my sending wires mixed at the tank and it didn't read correct. I guess one wire references differently and it's not just a straight potentiometer. Could check that.

I've got a complete set of stock brakes from an early 260z. Aluminum rear drums, drum cylinders, adjusters, (unfortunately cut back plates), front calipers, rotors. Is this stuff worth anything, or should i throw it to scrap? Rear shoes are new, have Hawk HPS front new pads and new stock pads (generic semi-metallic rather), and used stock pads.

I listed the actual some resistance ranges required to move the Z gauge the correct amount. I too put in a generic brand sensor similar to the above (for a KA engine I believe) and had it read low. Then I checked the Z32 service manual (which I thought was the same sensor as the KA one) and it showed that the range should match up. Stock 260z gauge reads roughly 130-140* at the 80 ohms I measured. I'd say the sensor should read about 30-40 ohms at operating temperature. You could check that with a voltmeter. Next i'm going to grab a stock sensor out of a junkyard car, or at least measure a few beside each other to see which has even the closest room temperature resistance.

Also curious about the booster. Now I've gone for a very similar setup: s12w, early 280zx rears, but am running a late 280zx booster and 1" nissan pickup master. Luckily I'm now the horizontal master style, so I could got to the 1-1/16" z32 one if need be. I'd prefer a softer than firm pedal (closer to a modern car), so we'll see how it goes.

For those who put in the OBX unit, did you measure the runout of the ring gear surface when installed? If so, what was your tolerance? I picked up an old stock japan made Helical from a company called Xebec. I had about .0023" runout of the ring gear face, and about .0018" radial runout. I noticed as well I only have 8 gears in mine instead of the 12 in the OBX. I also don't have any preload washers on my unit. Just wondering if my time trying to get a machine shop to true it is worth the effort and if I should just grab an OBX instead and be done with it.

I would have hoped the lesson learned would have been to not drive piss drunk, not to stop smoking.

I'd say you'd be fine with just turning the engine over with the fuel injector harness disconnected. However, I've read it is recommended to pull all the spark plugs as well. This allows the engine to both rotate at a faster speed, but also reduces the load greatly on all the bearings (main bearings, rod, and piston pin). That way they don't "wipe" and rub metal on metal. But as also suggested, can google to give yourself a better idea. Regards, Mark

I'm in the lower mainland as well and would be curious. I know there is a website for bc z registry. http://www.bczregistry.com/ I haven't checked them out more thoroughly and didn't see any dedicated calendar or anything. But maybe worth an email.

well, looks like i can source some new bearings for not too much. likely worth it. Instead of looking for OEM, you can search for 30209 bearings 45x85x20.75mm tapered roller bearing. Ideally something made in Japan. SKF, KOYO, etc. Shouldn't be too much more than $40/pr if you find a good bargain (ebay store closeout or something).

Here's my actual bearings. Anyone have thoughts on if they are usable? Here's the worse one. Was going to hit them down with an emery cloth

I did my own. See my thread. "Neverending 260z project"

Google images says the one on the far right. Google "ls2 coil pin output" in google images. I can't hand this whole thing to you on a platter.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/97071-dash-tach-wire-for-a-1978-280z/?p=913123 You will need 6 however. Make sure you know which of the LS wires is the actual coil wire and the signal wire (low current) used for the built in ignitor logic.

The stock tach requires a "coil negative" signal. That is, its a signal that switches to ground, and then lifts ground. When it lifts ground, the coil discharges and a large voltage spike is sent down the coil negative wire. You can replicate this coil negative wire in a Coil-on-plug setup by, 1) Use 6 diodes on the coil negative lines at each coil all joined together 2) Use the tach output wire on the megasquirt and build a "coil simulator" circuit to replicate the voltage spikes. I've outlined that a little more detailed in the RB forum. (requires a relay coil, transistor, and several resistors.).

what ecu? What are the 6 ls coils on? are you talking about using 6 of 8 of the coils on the LS swap?

Love the rack of 3 diffs in the background