mtnickel

Ok. first off, your original post you stated the car is not turning over. This would lead me back to a battery/terminal issue, not fuel related. Lets get things straight, when you turn the key to start it, does it turn over and do so strongly? The way the stock ECU works is that when you first turn the key to the "ON" position, it runs the pump for 2-3 seconds. It won't do it again unless you turn the key to off for like 15 seconds (try to go back to "on" too soon and it won't prime the pump again). Also, it's very unlikely you flooded the engine on an EFI engine provided you do have spark. If you do in fact have spark, then when your pump starts working, it would fire right up. Also, pretty unlikely that your plugs fouled enough to stop it from starting. Yes fouled plugs can cause misfires under higher loads, but the spark required to start the engine isn't that much. But get back to us on the engine turning over first and lets work from there.

Did you look at the diagrams you posted? Need help understanding them? You can see the Green wire goes from the relay to the fuel pump. The other side of the pump gets a black wire = ground.

Looks great! I've found in recent years that megasquirt is pretty darn expensive for what it is. Not sure any members have dabbled with this, but I'm sure you can get some help from us on generic trouble shooting. Good luck, and I look forward to seeing your progress! Mark

I'm case you're unaware, the fuel pressure follows the manifold pressure. The regulator is vacuum referenced. For example, (guess numbers) at idle at -10psi manifold pressure, your fuel pressure will be base pressure minus 10psi. Base pressure may be 43psi, so at idle it may be 33psi (again, these are very rough numbers for demonstration). When you ease into the throttle and hit 0psi, you will then see the base pressure of 43psi, and finally, as boost builds fuel pressure Will rise accordingly. The idea is that no matter what presssire is in the manifold, the pressure on the injector Nozzle is always the same. Makes fuel delivery predictable. Can you go full/moderate theottle at low rpm to get to 0psi (atmospheric pressure) and see that fuel pressure comes up accordingly? Do this under load in gear. Again, I reiterate it's the load and how much the throttle plate is open that dictate pressure, not just rpm.

I'm case you're unaware, the fuel pressure follows the manifold pressure. The regulator is vacuum referenced. For example, (guess numbers) at idle at -10psi manifold pressure, your fuel pressure will be base pressure minus 10psi. Base pressure may be 43psi, so at idle it may be 33psi (again, these are very rough numbers for demonstration). When you ease into the throttle and hit 0psi, you will then see the base pressure of 43psi, and finally, as boost builds fuel pressure Will rise accordingly. The idea is that no matter what presssire is in the manifold, the pressure on the injector Nozzle is always the same. Makes fuel delivery predictable. Can you go full/moderate theottle at low rpm to get to 0psi (atmospheric pressure) and see that fuel pressure comes up accordingly? Do this under load in gear. Again, I reiterate it's the load and how much the throttle plate is open that dictate pressure, not just rpm.

Given the same load requirement, the higher the RPM the lower the vacuum will be. For instance, cruising at 50mph in 5th may require -10 to -5 inches mercury vacuum, but at in 2nd at 5500rpm, it'll probably be like -18 to -20 vacuum. You're assumptions of vacuum and revs are incorrect. What you're experiencing is that the engine can rev freely at very little load, but struggles to rev when high load is put on. This could be: 1) Bad coil packs. These engines are notorious for bad coils. When boost comes on, the mixture is much more dense and much harder for the spark to fire. bad coils mean the engine stumbles, pops, etc. 2) bad/fouled spark plugs. Same log as above 3) Are you running the stock ECU and the stock Airflow meter in roughly the same configuration it was used from the factory? changins to the intake flow path can affect the tune of the engine. 4) Vacuum/boost leak. Make sure you're hoses are all tight. Perform a boost leak test if you can. My first guess would be misfire from either 1 or 2 however.

Centric C-tek Semi-metallic. El cheapo. I had planned to just get them for starters and look for track pads or dual duty, but they have been working nicely that I haven't had the necessity yet. I do plan to attend an autocross event this year, but I think they'd be fine, even for that.

On the early 260z, I can attest that the 280zx flipped upside down without the spacer does fit just fine (manual car too). Not sure if my firewall/Clutch layout is the same as the 280z, probably. but could also be an early 240, late 240 thing (post 73?). I run the 280zx booster, and the beauty then is that the 300zx (z32) or hardbody (4x4) cylinders fit just fine as well. I grabbed a 1" hardbody Master for like $35 on rockauto that had an arrangement of outputs I liked. I deleted the stock PV (replaced with 2 couplers) and the stock pressure switch. Plumbed in a wilwood knob adjusted PV. Had to make custom lines to go from metric to imperial fittings, but i was making a lot of lines anyways. I was referenced early in this thread regarding apparent Bias with the vented 4x4 setup and 280zx rear (early 280zx, though it's the same piston diameter). For starters, I really like the brake pedal feel I get. I'd say it's a touch firmer than most stock brake systems in your everyday car, but doesn't required excessive effort. Plus I'd rather a firm feel than sponginess. Also, my free play and grab with the 280zx booster and 1"MC is pretty good. There is a tiny bit of movement before it grabs, but I'd say it's less than my fx45 and about the same as my forester XT. Regarding bias, I have still yet to test out bias/locking characteristics in the wet now that the brakes are well bed in. I went with the setup mainly because when I did the math, the 4x4 vented front actually has about the same piston area as the 280zx single piston front brake does. I therefore thought it'd have about the same bias as that car and with a little help from the PV I could get more rear bias. Car stops very well, but I'd say I haven't driven (or emergency braked rather) enough cars to have a relevant opinion. It also doesn't help the argument considering I have 225ish autocross tires on a 2500lb car, so it's going to stop a lot better than most anything even with a sub optimal bias. For the street, I have no complaints. The pedal feels nice, comes to a halt very fast, and doesn't fade after the 2-4 stops I might make in a spirited drive down some back roads. Plus the looks of my gold painted 4x4 calipers, nicely working E-brake, and easily serviceable rears is a big plus. If down the road I get into more racing and really want to dial in bias, I could look at trying a larger rear rotor and accompanying caliper bracket, or play with pad compounds. Also, someone mentioned wilwood PV only goes to 57%. But i was under the impression that with it fully cranked, it was 1:1 ratio and only backing off the spring/knob gives a maximum of ~57% rear bias reduction. Any questions about my setup, just ask!

Whats funny is after I posted this I went out to wash my car (it had wood working dust on it) and put it away for the winter on jack stands. Well when going to pull it out, the clutch pedal didn't do anything! How coincidental. I let the engine fully warm and it came back. I think I too got a cheap Rock auto one assuming the stock one had likely sat too long. Never had one fail this way. it's like the plunger was stuck inwards. I'll have to do some research and let you know. I'll probably get a new one as well.

I haven't been in the game long, but I'd think the U-joints in the side shafts are more likely to give out. I thought I'd be fine with them, but when I started putting down 280-300whp in my RB25 I blew one. Luckily it didn't completely shear, but instead clunk around like crazy. If there's one bit of advice, it would be to never launch the car hard, no burnouts, not hard 2nd/3rd gear shifts to try and chirp the tires, etc. Really limit the shock load you put into the system and it will go a long way. If the diff itself fails (ring gear or pinion) you'll just be stranded and need a tow. If one of the half shafts fails it can spin around like crazy and muck about some of the sheet metal and perhaps your lower control arm, brake lines, etc. That's only if it completely shears on the wheel side. If it shears up top by the diff, probably be minimal damage. But as I said, drive it smoothly and you'll probably be fine.

When I researched, the Skyline originally had the same size that the 240z had, so Should be able to use stock. I have and It works well.

if they're too tough to find, you can always get the entire stub. I know I have a couple sets kicking around, though not sure what they are worth though.

WOW 340rwhp @ 12psi on stock turbos and 2.5L is Amazing! I had no idea they were capable of that much on stock turbos, and if so, i'd have thought it'd take 18+psi. I wish the RB's came with a turbo that could support nearly 400 crank HP with just 3-4psi over stock. What's the highest you can push those stock turbos? Had I known you could make 340whp on that, I may have been tempted to ditch the Nissan name. Between the intake manifold and new turbo, it adds easily another 1500-2000 to the cost.

http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/115984-redneck-style-rb-rear-sumppan-diy-tutorial/?hl=redneck

I cut parallel to the bottom of the pan, not the flange. That way with the tilt of the engine, the bottom is still flat. That is, however, provided you've mounted the engine with a tilt to it. The baffling/windage tray will have to all be modded and/or cut. I went as far as to rebend all the louvers to face the other direction so the windage action was still protected. It's a fair bit of work, and I had to add in some filler pieces to patch it all together, but it was fun. In hindsight, I'd do Less welding with the pan strapped to the engine . I didn't have any problems with slag getting into critical parts, but i could have.

Since it's quiet at droop, could problem be due to the pressure exerted when the shaft is shorter and somewhat 'compressed'. I know on some other Diff's the CV or stub axle grease seal could rub on the diff itself. Is it possible that your CV is physically rubbing on the side of the diff anywhere? Could be something to check. Good luck. I too was trying to find mystery diff noises. Thought I had double and triple checked everything trying to locate a clunk. Turns out the 3 coats of paint I put on my mustache bar were not 100% hardened and/or solid, and as a result even though they were torqued tight at one point, they wore a little loose and were making a nasty clunk. It was even mentioned many times on here, but failed to check them again until months later when I was getting fed up. Mark

Looks like a well thought out plan. I plan to do the same and will be following this closely. Luckily I have access to a machine shop where I can have the 3-bolt plate/tube nicely made. I'm grabbing the entire shaft assembly from an equinox shortly. Will even see what the equinox tube looks like to be adapted to the Datsun one if I can get it out of the equinox. Could always bring a sawzall . Mark

I just bought a pair of these. They are even cheaper (189) if you buy from their site. Overall quality seems to be good. One thing though is that the adjuster included isn't particularly long. It's a 4" adjuster, but after the 2 jam nuts and center hex portion, it only leaves about 1-3/16" of thread inside the rod end and aluminum body. That is when the arm is set at the factory length. As a note, it will adjust about 3/16-1/4" shorter than stock length. But with 1-3/16" of thread at stock length, if you use the 1.5X rule, then it doesn't leave a whole lot of adjustment. it's a 3/4" shank, so 1.5X would mean you'd want 1-1/8" of thread in both the body and the rod end. That means we'd only have about 1/8" adjustment over stock! The best solution would be to use a 5" adjuster that fills both the rod end and arm body when the arm is at stock length. Something like this: http://pitstopusa.com/i-5079515-allstar-performance-3-4-thread-x-5-long-double-adjuster.html After emailing the seller, they informed me that with the jam nuts being used as well you don't HAVE to go by the 1.5X rule. He said if it was a true racecar, then perhaps ordering the longer adjuster would be useful, but didn't offer to exchange the adjuster for me. He felt comfortable if the aluminum side had 3/4" of thread and the steel rod end side had 1/2" of thread. I probably only need about 1/2"-3/4" of adjustment otherwise I'll run out of tie rod length safety. Should be good for 1.5* of camber as I had hoped. I'll leave a touch more thread in the aluminum to be safe, but I too feel it should be ok with 1" of thread in each side. Regards, Mark

where'd you get that small of a housing for the holset?

Still looking

I have an excellent condition Turbo if needed. PM me

Don't forget that it wasn't available in north America. Sure you can find L28's here since they sold a ton of them. Also remember most are sold by individuals. A little harder to go to most wreckers or engine shops and find an L28et on the shelf. The 2jz seems to have been "sold out" at a lot more JDM suppliers in recent years as well as prices going above $8000 with transmission. Once you buy one however, it's pretty easy to find a 2jz non-turbo block in a junk yard that will also hold a crap ton of power. Just swap all your parts onto it. \

What consult connector are you using? Have you verified that the actual consult USB device works correctly? Driver installed?

Anyone have experience with the Billet front lower control arms from Zcardepot? https://zcardepot.com/suspension/front-suspension/front-lower-control-arm-billet-racing-240z-260z-280z.html By the time I buy the rod ends, adjusters, and have all the cutting/welding done, it seems a lot easier to just buy these. Thoughts?

Nice numbers! What turbo? when does it spool by? I'm always contemplating going to a bigger turbo, but the "drive a slow car fast" vs "drive a fast car slow" debate always comes in. I'm finding even on a base tune around 10psi on my rb25, it's great for back road carving being able to put the power down here and there. It feels fast as it is, but I can only image what what 480whp feels like. Certainly would be a highway monster.