VRJoe

Sorry to hear about the accident Mike. On the good side, the amount of blood you loose is directly porportional to the success of the project, so the Z's gonna come out great Glad to hear Craig stepped up to the plate for you, guess you're starting to rub off on him Get well quickly and if the Z requires another sacrifice try tossing it a chuck of raw steak. - Joe

Thanks John, I'm doing the rear and was trying to decide if I should press the outer bearing on to the axle stub or press it in to the housing. Thanks to you the decision is made and I can ponder over other issues . It always amazes me how the answer will turn up on this site just when you need it, but then again I guess the search function does skew the odds a little . - Joe

Thanks, I needed that :D:D - Joe

Sorry to hear about the problems. The header issue seems to be a real problem for you, be sure to check it for flatness. Also make sure that the surface is perpendicular to the bolts. Use the blown gasket as an indicator for problem areas. When you replace the wheel bearings be sure to follow the manual (tighten then back off). If you don't back the nut off, you've over tightened the bearings, a sure road to fried bearings. Good luck, hope that helps - Joe

Other Sites ?????? I don't beleive that there could be another site that would compare to the tech info and help available here. I think the fact that I've seen posts here that start with "It's not something I'd do, but you might try ........" sums it up pretty well. People here will help with ideas even if they don't agree with it. What more could you ask for. All that's asked in exchange is a little courtsey. Three cheers for the Moderators. - Joe

Get ready for the fun to start. - Joe

I just finished replacing all the brake lines on my '77 280Z as part of the V8 upgrade. The lines are all inverted flare type fittings, so you can get a flare tool almost any place (I got one at Sears on special for $9). I bought a bending tool at a car show for about the same price. I bought lines at Pep Boys that were close to the correct length, that way I only had to cut and flare one end. The only line that was a problem was the one that runs from the front to the rear. I checked around the local heavey equipment shops (bulldozers, backhoes .....) and asked them who formed lines locally. The shop they recomended formed the line without ends for $35 (I took the old one to them so they could match the bends). I put the ends on myself. It takes a little time and patience to get used to bending and flaring, but it's worth it in the end. I got SS lines from MSA to replace the rubber lines. One note is that I added a Wilwood porportioning valve, Since I was forming my own lines I was able to place it where I wanted it and I used meteric ends on one end to mate with the existing fittings and used standard fittings on the other end to mate to the valve. The shop that made the line for me also has all kinds of AN fittings and adapters and are more than willing to help me solve some of my clutch and fuel plumbing issues, they were a great find. Hope that helps. - Joe

I pulled the setup from a 280ZX and compared it with the 280 setup. It looked close, but would be a real pain to make work. It'll be a lot easier to use an aftermarket motorizing kit. - Joe

My next door neighbor's son had the same problem as your son. He's made a full recovery and is doing great. Hang in there, money comes and goes, cars come and go, take care of your son. - Joe

I've been fighting the same problem with an A/C bracket. I want to place the stock A/C compressor above the valve cover on the drivers side. I went junk yard surfing and found a bracket from a 91 Pontiac that looks like it will work. It will bolt up to head and it is pretty close to being in line with the crank pulley. I'm trying to decide if I want to use one belt or add a pulley to the balancer and use a seperate belt for the compressor. This bracket looks like it will work for either setup. The bracket is a two piece part. One part bolts to the head and the other is a plate that the compressor bolts to and is slotted for tensioning the v-belt. I drilled out the plate and elongated one of the holes so I can bolt the original LT1 compressor to it. I'll be finalizing the bracket over the weekend (I hope) and will post picks when finished. If you go to the JY look for a 91 Pontiac V8 with a AC-Delco compressor on the drivers side. Hope that helps. - Joe

LOL

Check all the battery connections. Check both power to starter and ground. Try cleaning the terminals also. - Joe

I just mounted my TTC headers and had the same problem. These headers are so tight they touch the edge of the oil pan I pulled the knock sensor and made a bracket to move it. I plan on mounting the bracket to the 3/8 mounting point just in frount of the sensor. My '94 only has one knock sensor on the passenger side. Get a 1/4 NPT plug and pull the sensor, be sure to put a catch can under it, it's in the water channel. Wrap the plug with teflon tape and thread it in where the sensor came out. You can move the sensor to the motor mount plate, I've read that's where other folks have moved it. If you check using the search function for 'knock sensor' you'll find a link to a company that sells an adapter to mount the knock sensor to the oil pan. I opted to make a bracket and move the sensor that way. - Joe

Acording to the Haynes manual I have for a '94 Camaro (that's what my LT1 came out of) the Purple wire is VSS ground and the Yellow wire is the VSS signal. Hope that helps, if you need to know which pin on the connector is VSS signal I'll have to check the harness against the conncetor at the trans. -Joe

I may just get a set of the cloth seats in black. I liked the feel of the lumbar support on the cloth seat the best. They seem like reasonable seats for the money. - Joe

I bought a set of coated block huggers from Thermal Tech Coatings , http://www.thermaltechcoatings.com/ Check out the prices, they're almost to good to believe. Quality is great and so was the service and advice. - Joe

Grumpy, You're an incredible asset to this board. I don't know what we'd do with out you. I know that the next time I make it to the sunshine state I'm going to be sure to shake your hand and buy the beverage of your choice . - Joe

Sears usually has one on sale. I don't know what I'd do with out it. The first time I used it I felt like Tim Allen and started looking for other things that needed to be removed. - Joe

Mike, I hope the cops catch the scum, it'd be a lot safer then getting caught by you You may want to check that cresent wrench, it already attacked you, the 'Stang may have been next on it's hit list - Joe

Mike, Are you sure you didn't let that wrench slip just to get a little extra time with Donna ?? Get better fast, I may be headed your way this weekend. The Cresent wrench should have a warning label, I have substitued a pipe wrench when I can, it doesn't slip as often. I can see it now, Donna making you wear your motorcycle helmet while working in the garage Hmmmm might not be a bad idea, that and gloves from a suit of armor to avoid those skinned knuckles commonly caused by the demon cresent wrench - Joe

Looks great Mike, can't wait to see it in person.... then check out the garage - Joe

I'm in the same position as far A/C. I want to mount the A/C on the drivers side over the valve cover. I'm prototyping a bracket to do this and will make final measeurements once I set the engine back in. I'll post my results when it's done. I want to make sure that a strut brace will clear the compressor, that way I know the hood on any setup will clear. - Joe

It sounds like a virus. I got an email that claimed to be from Dan Juday that had the Klez virus attached. It wasn't from Dan, so somebody on the board here has the Klez virus. I'd guess that's where the email you got came from. If you're not running Norton Antivurs GET IT RIGHT AWAY !!!!!. And be sure to run the Live update as often as possible (if you're on DSL or Cable set it to run Live Update automatically). - Joe

There are only three ways to put out a fire: 1) Remove the fuel 2) Remove the heat 3) Remove the air Halon works by removing the air. CO2 work by removing the heat. Fuel cut off works by removing the fuel. Dry powder work by seperating the fuel and air, thereby removing the air. Commonly it's refered to as 'the fire triangle'. Fuel on one side, air on another and heat on the third. Remove any one of the sides and the fire goes out. Blowing out a candle removes the heat. Putting a lid on a pan fire removes the air. Halon gained wide use for computer rooms back in the day of big computers and raised floors. It could put out a fire without damaging the computer. Very expensive to setup but far cheaper than water damage to a computer system and tape library. The claim was that you could breath it for 15 Min. while waiting for the fire to go out. This was later revised to 'Get the heck out if the Halon goes off' since a few people died from breathing Halon. As noted above Halon works by removing air (oxygen actually), shouldn't be a suprise that that trying to breath it for a while in a sealed room would kill you. Works great from an extinguisher. Hope that helps. - Joe

Check to make sure you have a good ground. Then check power. - Joe