COmputoman

Edit: Is there a place to get an attachment that slip fits over the nut like described in the first post. Maybe something that can be attached to a torque wrench. ben

I can send you some. $4 plus shipping.

Replaced pads and machined rotors the yesterday. Still feel vibrations upon brake, but I think its the drums. one interesting thing I noticed. The rotor on one side was a lot more warped and glazed then the other. When replacing the pads on the more glazed side I could not compress one of the caliper pistons in without the other one coming out. The side that was less damaged did not have this problem. I eventually devised an idea to put something in between them and push them outward while adding shims each time to get them compress. Even after this it seems like they would want to return to their decompress state quickly after I pulled my "tool" out from in between the pistons. I eventually got the caliper to the rotor after struggling with it for about 30 minutes. Is this normal? Does this mean that the flow of fluid back to the master cylinder is somehow being blocked? Ben

I know this may seem a bit obvious. I was installing my clutch/brake pedals onto my automatic to get ready for my manual swap. In the time being I was going to drive it with 2 pedals and a false clutch pedal. When I installed the new brake pedal I adjusted the rubber bumper a little too far forward. Ever since i have had my 260 its had really stiff touchy brakes. Finished up and then went to bed as I have to wake up soon enough to go to work in the morning... Already running late I realized that there was virtually no free play in my brake. As soon as I touched the pedal they were stopping my car. I knew that this couldn't be good, but as my car was working fine I was going to try my damndest to get to work on time. About 3/4 to the way there I noticed a horrible smell and saw smoke coming out from behind my car. Pulled over to the side of the road and slowed my speed to about 40. Pulled up to a stop light and my brakes just about locked up on me. When taking off I could hear all of the pads and shoes brake free of their semi locked position... Pulled over immediately and got out. All four tires were smoking . luckily I had pulled into a home depot. Walked inside and got a few wrenches. Out to the parking lot to adjust the little rubber bumper behind my pedal. After making this adjustment i tried my brakes out. Pedal falls to the floor. Check the engine bay. Brake fluid is leaking from the brake switch and from one of the reservoirs on the master cylinder. tightened up the leaky hose going to the switch and checked fluid levels. The levels looked ok. After my rotors stopped smoking I tried out the brakes again. Everything is now working alright, but the rotors are warped and in need of a machine shop. Again sorry if this seems infantile of me to not have this done correctly, I just wanted to gauge peoples interest and see if anyone else has had any similar experiences.

what are you doing with those triple carbs? I would love to take them off of your hands.

Would this one work? http://www.ultrarev.com/product.php?productid=24021

http://ultrarev.com/product.php?productid=24064 Im about to do my manual swap and i need to know if this clutch will fit on my flywheel. I know it says 2+2 so that would mean that the clutch is a 240mm Right? If so where do i find a clutchmasters FX100 for a 225mm flywheel? Thanks Ben

Had a conversation with some guy over the weekend. He claimed that his mitsubishi turbo 4 cyl. would produce around 800 whp with an upgraded turbo and a 3 inch exhaust, and not internal engine mods. And with this setup in his slightly over 3K pound car he would run low 8's in a 1/4 mile. I basicly told him he was full of Sh*t and laughed. I then explained that there were 900 to 1000 HP z's that weighed less then 2K pounds that ran 9 seconds. He then went on to prove his point by explaining how there are 1000 hp front wheel drive cars running 5 second 1/4 miles. I didnt doubt that someone in this world has made a 1000hp front wheel drive car, but then argued about how they were supposed to put all of that power to the pavement and run 5 seconds. I then argued that most street bikes dont even run 5 seconds (correct me if im wrong). He said it can be done with fat front tires and skinny rears. I keep laughing,... He then says he doesnt even care about drags because their for stupid people and hes into DRIFTING!!

Last night I was eating a hot dog at this hot dog joint. Guy walks in from outside "Which one of you guys's supra is that outside?" Me "Naw man, thats a ZeeeeeEE....". Go figure. ben

Oh! I studied the picture a little harder. The wire hold down makes it look like the wire is cut in the middle.

i think what he meant was the transmission from auto to manual good find. I drive a 260 and its great to see the reaction on peoples face when they have never heard of one. Ben

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/strutbumperlowering/index.htm Using this method you should be able to gain 1 inch without changing the physical aspects your your suspension. Also, I though coil overs could raise your suspension above stock hight. But I have never had coil overs. So what do I know

do people do distributorless carburetor systems?

Agreed. That has got to be a scale model for sure. Edit: Guess not, just opened the actual web page and looked at more pictures with the same floor and wall

Is that badge made of metal or plastic? Where did you get the badge from?

I dont think they will work. There is a difference in the early and late 260's as far as suspension goes. Have you already bought them?

I was even thinking of having rectangular driving lights mounted behind the grille. That would be interesting.

Nigel, that wiki article covers just about all of the things I was discovering when trying to solve my own dieseling issue. I wish I would have read that a long time ago! Ben

does it have carbs, or is it fuel injected? If its carbed try turning the round dials on the bottom of the carbs a half turn to the right each. If that doesnt work, try another half turn. This will lean out the mixture to your engine. less fuel means less chance of diesel. My engine use to do this. Ben

I think your lucky! what a clean S30 to start with.

Grid's version is 10 times better.. I HATE those headlights that all of the new concept z's have.

Theres a Z in fear and loathing in Las vagas. Whenever they rent a new car from the dealership. he drives in with a blue Z. 2+2 I think.

I have a better idea.. Send them to me. Edit: JohnC, is the trimming of the springs due to the top strut mount covered in this article? http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/strutbumperlowering/index.htm