Clifton

Were you drinking? I've been over 140 many times, 150 a few times with no spoiler. and no wandering or wheeling at all. I think alot of this wandering/floating is on Z's with bad alignments, shocks, and soft stock springs.

What?

I run a Clutchspecialties 4 puck and PP with a 225mm flywheel. It will easily hold the torque if you don't mind the lack of a marcel and instant grab.

There are 2 vented rotor calipers. 86-95.

You won't have any more of a problem with fuel with an AIC set up as carbed guys have. Injectors spray pretty fine and the air is moving pretty fast on boost. My power was pretrty good with it:smile:. I've run an AIC on 2 cars and a truck. I just took an HKS AIC on off my 73' Z. I could never get it lean enough up top without being too rich on the bottom, or vice versa, PITA compared to the safr I have now. I would go with larger injectors and an safc or safr. You can pic up those piggy backs used pretty cheap too.

You will loose power. The smaller motor will have even less torque. Torque is desirable, especially on a street car. I would never ever give up displacement. Ask anyone who has done the stroker L6's if they are happier with there new found power. There is a 2.5 and a 3.0 version of the Toyota JZ motor. One has a shorter stroke. Yes it revs a little higher but guess which one makes more HP and TQ. If you were racing in a class that limited you on displacement then it would be easier to use the L28 block and pistons with an L24 crank.

I went 2.5"/2.75" while my friend went 3"/3". We both have the same the same 3" in/out intercooler and engine. On a second or third gear roll we both come on boost so close to the same time you can't tell the difference. On a stock turbo it is over kill but if you have the tubing you may as well use it. The turbo size really doesn't mean as much as how much air you are moving through it. Your set up (T3/4) at 20 psi would move more air than a T66 at 10 psi.

2fiddyz's car with 5zigens.

True. An RB26 is about at it's max as far as fuel and turbo at 400rwhp though. An L6 with larger turbo and fuel can easily do 400 reliably with stock internals. An L6 doesn't need anything special to be reliable, just don't run a small turbo and expect big numbers. If you ever want more than 400, the RB26 would definetly be a better choice but you'll need to spend more than the initial swap to do it.

The internally regulated Hitachi is an easy swap. You could have a dead cell though too. But a voltmeter on the battery, It should be atleast 12.5 + with the engine off. Watch the voltage when you try to crank it. It shouldn't drop much. Same with turning the headlights on. I pulled my hair out once with a battery that would take a charge but not start the car. Voltage was always good until I checked when cranking.

I don't know. They were gold before I painted them undercover black;-). The last set of ST bars I saw were gray. Did they used to paint or plate them gold?

Cool, thanks.

No, aftermarket. I don't know the brand though. It was on a 240 parts car I have. It was a behind the diff bar on that too, just had aftermarket brakets.

Is there a benifit to the higher voltage of using the Explorer VR sensor? I've read that the EDIS has an rpm limit. With EDIS4 higher than the 8, and 6 in the middle. Did you test max rpms? Do you think the Explorer VR would give a higher rpm or is it the module that limits it?

I wanted to keep the stock mustache bar as I don't run a solid front diff mount and need the twist the stock bar has. I'm sure others have wondered if this would work with the stock bar too. I had to notch it to clear but not much. Where it is notched is still wider than the ends just before it mounts to the body. With sway bar installed

I would check the voltage with the engine running and off. It would be quicker than swapping an alternator and narrow down the problem.

Doubt it. The VQ trans won't bolt to a VG. The Z32 is a VG.

Not unles high mileage is your goal. I guees it depends on how you drive the car and what you do with it. They were way to hard for me. Sold them with less than 2k miles on them. Look at Falken Azenis, much softer but still a street tire.

They look like 440's. I just sold a set. Alot of Supra guys go bigger and with the square plug. They just throw away the stock plug (I did). You could probably find some on supraforums.com or supramania.com

I used Rust Mort. You can get it at auto body shops. It does contain acid.

I can. If you are too rich it will add alot of lag. I like mid 12's even low 13's don't bother me till the boost gets up there, then a little richer. Not enough timing will also do the same.

Put a straight edge on it or have a machine shop check it. If it's out just a little I would not shave it. If it's warped and you cut the bottom you'll have to cut the top too. If you do surface it and just take a little off, you can run it without shims.

You need to measure the inducer and exducer to find out what trim it is. .60 doesn't tell us anything other than the housing a/r. You can put the cold side on the T3. The T3 side is still a restriction and the standard T3 turbine wheel is kinda small. The T4 most likely has a P trim turbine. You would be better off power wise getting your .63 housing machined to fit the larger wheel and use the other complete turbo.

The dish will be the same as the turbo pistons. Only difference is the ring lands. Your C/R with the P90 on your 78 block will be the same as an L28ET. I run less than 7.4:1.

I run cast pistons too. Cast pistons are weaker, although forged or cast both will not tolerate prolonged deto. Ring lands will break first if it knocks and you can't hear it to get out of it. Here the highest pump is 91. To say, I did it with 87 octane is like saying I race without a seat belt. You can do it but why take the risk? It isn't going to impress anyone and it isn't worth risking a motor for bragging rights. If you don't knock you'll be on the edge of it. It will eventually get you.