Clifton

Reclocking the compressor housing won't give enough clearance? Could you cut out the area out on the strut tower for clearance and then replace the steel but with a depression in it enough to clear the housing?

You have odd left hand placement (sliding the hand all the way over to the right) on the right hand turns. You would have better control and feel if you kept it at 10/2 comparred to 11/1. Nice in car though.

I have A/C and a 4" thick intercooler. I added the a/c after the intercooler but everything fits fine. Mount your condensor as close to tha radiator as possible.

On mine the low rpm (300) is cranking, were more fuel is added below that rpm. Above it goes to the regular table.

Are you running a WB? Have you dataloged the problem? You could be on the lean side to begin with at those load points and sometimes it's just enough that it will pop and miss.

The guy selling those is a misleading crook. The people that leave the postive feedbacks don't know they were had till it's too late. They are the same "T70" (61mm) turbos that SS autochrome sells. He angles them so you cannot see the square tag area on the compressor housing. You can get the same turbo for a 1/4 of what his sells for. The is another guy or maybe even the same POS that shows a pic of a polished one, but in small print says polished is extra. He has GT35 in his title too, or did. Those turbos DO NOT have ball bearing center sections. I bought a kit and sold off everything but the WG. Ended up getting a basically free WG out of it.

If they are in fact 160lbs. Is the wire diameter of the Honda springs the same or smaller? The rate will go up after you cut them. Are your stock rears that are going in the front going to be cut? If not and they are 127 and your rears are over 160 after the cut. You will may be in for some fun oversteer.

The more coils the softer the spring rate will be. I would cut the left side. The only down side would be you don't know what you are changing the rate to. You may of been starting off with a neutral handling car and end up with the balance off because one end is now alot stiffer than it was before the cutting. What's the spring rate now and why didn't you just buy aftermarket Z springs that are known and have a proper rate for a Z and ride height? Just curious.

I have no way of hosting/posting an Excel file but if you want it I can send it to you.

On my L28 I'm running 22* total at 22 psi. I only run race gas with it though. On my 7M I'm at 19* at 23psi. I'm going to pull it back to 17* though. I just got the MSII going on it 2 days ago and am in the middle of getting the afr's and timing perfect. I just did a datalog last night and found it was a few degress higher than I want. I'll post the second one so you can see it though.

MSII will only drive one coil as of now. It does have better injector control though. I would get atleast a 3 bar map. It will give you more room if you later decide you want more boost.

You don't need to understand all of the internals, I surely don't. I bought a pre assembled unit (MSII) off ebay cheap as I didn't want to have to bother with assembly. I found that I had to jumper some wires to run EDIS and change the map sensor to a 4 bar, no biggie as there is alot of info on how to do it. Looking back it was ALOT of reading and learning but once you get it running you'll know pretty much everything you need to know about it. I would do it again. The VE generator is amazing. Just punch in the numbers and the car is driveable. Just need to fine tune. There was talk on one of the threads of adding more drivers that will be able to do COP. I don't know if it will happen soon or at all.

VR sensors don't go bad to often. You can check the voltage. It will be ac. Mine was around .8v. I would unplug the DB37 plug on MS until you know for sure the EDIS is working properly. You could be lacking a jumper wire on the MS. Once I had my EDIS working I had an issue with MSII. I found that JS10 wasn't jumped to INJ, easy fix.

I plan to, but sent him an email first to make sure before sending it. I sent an email a few hours ago but haven't heard back yet. I guess I could just send it. I'll have to send more later, once they are ready.

It's 3.9% + a .20 UK lb fee. They charge more for international but still cheaper than the bank.

I just sent you an email with the info I just got from him today. I looked into transfering the money too but for me it's easier and cheaper to just PP and not have to go into the bank to fill out the forms.

A few things I would check. Does EDIS and coil pack have power when cranking, If it's straight to battery then I guess so. VR sensor polarity. Gray is +, blue is -. I would leave MS unplugged when checking for spark like your are doing. I had a small peice of my sheilding get into my heat shrink. It would ground out the VR sensor only when the edis was plugged in as it grounds through pin 7. Took a while to find the problem.

Digital multi meter. NBO2's put out 0-1v dc.

You have to use a wideband controller with a WB sensor. Those Autometer and other NBO2 gauges just measure voltage. You could do the same with a DMM.

There is a solder joint there. A local body shop that does alot of S30 resto's removes the solder and welds it to keep it from wrinkling again. There is also a solder joint on the front that cracks. My 73, when I got it had the wrinkle behind the rear quater window, as alot of them do. It had a stock L24 in it too at the time. I have done nothing to keep the flex down on my street car.

Thanks. I found it. I accidently deleted it, I get so smuch spam.

I guess I just think of rockcrawling as that's about all I did every other weekend for the longest time. Crawl boxes (dual T cases) make manual transmissions tolerable but I would rather have a slush box with dual T cases rather than a manual and dual t-cases on the trail in my truck, constantly shifting gets old. I've been out a few times on easier trails (body damage wise) with my wifes FJ80 (auto) and it is nice to leave it in in low or hi range and either manually shift or let it do it's thing. Not enough gear reduction for the big rocks but a manual box with a stock T case won't have the gear either without slipping the clutch enough so everyone else can smell who has the 5 spd. Most people aren't to extreme though and just like mild trails were either would be fine.

I sent you an email a few days ago. I don't know if you got it, if not mine is siragla@attglobal.net

You can get in on the Z32 5spd adapter http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=110306. If it were me I would keep the auto for a truck/4x4 though.