Clifton

Measure... Make sure you get aluminized tubing if it's mild steel. I know Jegs and Summit sell both in mandrel U bends. Non aluminized will rust pretty quick.

Atmosphere.

I know in SCCA some classes rquire the stock ecu box. You can put whatever you want in it but the box must be factory. Haven't heard anything about factory wiring. That was one thing I was not willing to use when going MS and my harness was from an 89'.

I would check the strut gland nut and strut shaft nut.

Having a low boost threshold will hurt power. Unless you really need it to come on at 2400 rpm I would go with the HY35. 3600 rpm is still really low and will give you more rpms up top. More revs are a downshift away. It's not very often when you need to excelerate at low rpms, just like an n/a motor. I get 20 psi around 4800 rpms, depending on the gear .

The 7m, EDIS with Supra coilpack. The L28 has SDS with standard a coil.

Short deosn't kae them stiff. Seems like a good deal if the springs have a decent rate. If they are in fact 400lb springs I wouldn't want them on my street car.

Apparently it's common to do on MSII. I've had this bookmarked to do mine when it cools down some here. It explains everything. http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t=16572&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=fan&start=0

It is a small leak, atleast on Z32's. The bov is not fully open. Maybe the Vortec ones but they are designed for a supercharger application were volume will still be produced under no load. If they are not set up soft enough they won't open, or open enough at the low psi stock systems run at. Mine will open under full vac with no boost but not at idle, don't need it to. Throttle response isn't going to be improved with a small leak from 29"-5" of vacuum, well maybe if you are running 1.5" tubing.

http://reiderracing.com/pgpowerbrute.htm .

Cool, another 7M Z. If you don't mind suggestions. I would get it back as far as you can. Getting the shifter through the body is tight. Also when you do your driveshaft use a spicer 1310 on the rear joint. It is almost as big as the Toyota front joint and alot larger than the tiny Datsun U joint.

I guess it could be under 200* if your boost was low enough and ambient temps were low, go over 20 psi and forget it if temps are high. Either way good luck with your quest for better tip-in/ idle throttle response/ quicker spool.

To use the internal WG on it you will need to either use a different actuator or maybe a spring to push it open. The are set a little high, I think it is over 30psi but can't remember for sure. I would check it before your first WOT run.

Sounds like theroy. I don't see the benifit of introducing 200*+ air into the turbo inlet that will no longer be pressurized as the volume isn't that much once released. The impreller is designed to pull air in, not be driven by incoming air attempting to overcome the velocity of the air already entering. It would be horribly inefficient. I run a pretty big, laggy azz turbo and have no problem on shifts. What turbo are you running that is hard to keep spooled? How does a leaky bypass let more air in? Once your WOT, How can get anymore air in the engine than the TB will let into the manifold?

Thanks. 4082

Were is this alleged gallery ?

It depends on your power goals and how much boost you are willing to run. If you will never go above 7 psi, the stock T3 would be enough. A larger turbo will add lag and unless the boost raised you won't gain much from it.

Nice. Are you running an external WG? Were did you get the stainless weld els from? Did you tig or mig it? I can't fing you gallery.

The only reason to recirculate is to keep an efi with an afm happy. It won't keep it spooled any better. Dumping the excess hot air back to the inlet would be of less of a benefit than venting to atmsophere. Having one that leaks would just reduce the volume, reducing the boost.

I like it, especially the flair . I did everything I could to take weight off my 71 and did an ok job on the 73 considering it's a street car with a/c. This makes me want to get a hole saw out on both cars.

1UZ swaps are pretty popular over there. They are cheap and lighter than an L28 and stock make more HP and torque than either a 215 or worked L28.

3.0, 2500lb car. It takes a certian amount of power (let's say 40 hp) to move a a given weight (2500lbs) at whatever speed (65mph). It doesn't matter if it's a 1.8 or 5.7 it will take roughly the same amount of fuel to make that 40 hp to move the weight. There are V8 guys on the board that get same the mileage I get with twice the motor. Do you have a 5 spd or 4 spd? Is your mileage highway or street? If highway, how fast? Anything over 65 and mine drops quite a bit. New Scions weigh 2500lbs and have 1.5l that are alot more fuel effiecent but only get 32 city. They are a little heavier but I can't see an L18 510 ever getting 30+ mpg just becuase it a little lighter.

25 mpg sounds pretty good for a 30 year old carbed engine? I'm lucky to get that on the highway with a perfect afr.

You asked this same question before. I'm assuming it's still a V8 you want. An L seriers Z trans will be at it's limit with a decent V8's torque. Why are you so set on keeping the Z trans with a V8?