Clifton
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Everything posted by Clifton
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I know this is an old post but for those on here that wanted to do this swap and didn't know, there is an adapter here. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=110306
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Definite yes.
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RS motorsports has MS harnesses for $54. All the leads are labeled every 3'. I wouldn't even bother with the stock efi.
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Total advance is easy to find with an adjustable timing light, especially with a mech advance dist. AFRs, you'll need a wide band either way.
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Can I safely cut this out of my door?
Clifton replied to JaysZ's topic in Brakes, Wheels, Suspension and Chassis
Is this a race car? If so I would cut the brace out too if there are door bars. I have fiberglass doors on my 71 that are cut out the way you have lined. They have some flex, I'm sure alot more than a gutted steel door and are fine. I don't run windows though. -
I know AIM makes adapters. I would use the Ford, Nissan, Toyota, ect 5x 114.3 pattern. Chevy uses a 5x5.75".
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Twin turbo SBC powered Z32 (56k beware)
Clifton replied to TwinTurbo's topic in Gen I & II Chevy V8 Tech Board
I like it. There's more room in there than with a VG30TT. Needs bigger turbos though. -
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You still have mechanical unless you have locked it. You need to know your total timing after the mech advance is all in.
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They are both VG motors, should be the same bolt pattern. I know all Toyota stuff of the same engine family is regardless of twin cam or single.
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You are going to go through the trouble of TT but use the n/a efi setup? That's alot of work for 6-8 psi....What injectors? What are you doing to pull timing under boost? Get the high pressure 255 pump.
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Little easier to see
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I was on there and amazed. 1000 rwhp blow through street car. Carbs seem popular on there.
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I haven't run in to this problem yet:mrgreen:.
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1. Mark Cookson (mtcookson HybridZ/Nico) 2. Pmpmstrb (money in hand) 3. Clifton 4. 5. More?
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I agree with Dan and jmortensen. Giving up discplacement isn't the way to go. L28's already have a short stroke compared to a 7M (91mm) and there's no way I would shorten it to rev a little more. Even if you can make the same HP with more revs it will not be as streetable as you'll loose torque and the HP will come on higher. Ask any one who has done a stroker L28 which they liked driving more and how it revs.
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It takes very little to pull the PP down flat. Are you sure the bolt aren't bottoming? Is the disk facing the right way?
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I hope you don't mind, I copied your post from the other sire. I'm definately in. It looks like alot of others are too. I know alot are just talk though. Hopefully there will be atleast 5 people. If you are serious please post as I want to save some money:biggrin:. Are you looking for a list and deposit?
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I'm not sure I understand the question but if you are talking about bolting up to the later R200 you can change the pinion flange on the diff or the rear flange on the drive shaft.
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R134 won't be as cold as R12 in an R12 system. Did you evacuate the system before recharging?
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That top cobra is one is nice. Reclinable seats aren't that light if you are comparing them to a Z seat without the rails though. I know Sparco and Momo both make fixed back seats that don't require a harness for the bottom belt, if you want to save some wieght.
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My first turbo car ride was in a blow through 4bbl 240Z. It hooked me. I believe trubomioester, ususally on the v8 section runs blow through.
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I guess it depneds on how much you need out of it. You need everything you can get when it's 110*. I've tired a few motors. The Honda and Jeep motors do blow a little more. Enough to notice but it still won't be like a newer car.