Clifton

You can use the 240 struts if you have them rebuilt already. Suspension pick ups are the same. 280's have ugly (IMO) tail lights, don't know if they can be swapped, also the interior also looks a little different. Don't know if either matters to you.

Lean will cause backfiring through the intake. Are you tunning with a wideband, I hope?

Wow, I would go to a real turbo guy. I had a ct26 leak on the turbine side shortly after rebuilding it. I replaced the piston ring seal and it was fine after that. They are very easy to r/r. Alot easier than T3-T4 stuff. The ring could have colapsed or there could be carbon keeping ti from sealing if it is in fact coming from there.

I'm still in too.

Why so rich? Try leaning it out a little. 11:1 will definetly keep it from making power and if it was a little richer at times could cause a miss.

I ran the same compressor but with an O trim .69 T4 hotside. I too could get it to surge at a little over 3k at lower boost levels(5-9psi) with around 1/2-3/4 throttle. It was on my roadrace car and I didn't have a choice but live with it, only happened coming off a long turn. Same fluctuating needle. Once I could give full throttle the revs would come up quick and all would be good. Turbo never came apart and I ran it for years on the street before it became a track only car. I did have to replace the thrust bearing once but those are cheap. On the street you probably aren't at full boost at lower rpms enough or if you are it won't be for long. This is another reason I dislike T3/4's with small turbines/ar's on L6 motors.

It's sad when it is sociably accecptable to have a few drinks and drive when DUI's are responsible for far more deaths and accidents than street racing. That new code would give a minumim of 1 yr if convicted of dangerous driving. Ouch.

Maybe in Japan but that's not why they were doing it here. Again, maybe in Japan but 99% of 1.5jz here are in MKIII's. 99% of those are are stock or close to it. Big cams, turbos or whatever they still make more power than a 2.5l 1jz with the same mods so I don't see your issue. Another example. L6 heads don't flow much compared to alot of newer heads. Based on what you are saying about the head not having enough air for the added volume "it will make around the same power, but at a lower rpm. Sometimes it will make less power if the head is optimised for the higher revs of the smaller engine" an L stroker would produce the same or less power. Yet I have never heard of a stroker L6 motor making less power or the same regardless of how much lower it revved comparred to an an L24-L28 with stock bore and stroke. I know 7M heads don't flow well and they have a silly long stroke(91mm). Maybe if I destroked it I would make more power.

Right. My point was a 1.5jz still makes power than a 1jz, even with the added displacement. Just an example comparring displacement and power.

Only the T88. Greddy's is just smaller, Garrett uses the compressor inducer(not on GT series, they use the compressor exducer) to refer to the turbo. In this case 88mm. I don't know how Greddy gets T88 as nothing on it is 88mm.

About 300 rwhp. I think Greddy uses Mitsubishi turbos. The other (higher flowing) is Garrett.

An RB30 with an RB26 head will surely make more power than an RB26. Who's to say you can't rev an RB30 If the head's are the same and have the air in them. Not Nissan but related. A 2.5l 1JZ makes good power, alot of guys want more power out of them so they use 2jz blocks (longer stroke) with the 1jz head(cheaper). They call it a 1.5jz. The added discplacement doesn't hurt power. A straight 2jz with an 86mm stroke are revved past 8k often with stock rods, a few higher. I know the 1jz has the same output of the rb26, in stock form. The longer stroked 2jz(3.0) will make more power comparred to both the smaller but higher revving 1jz or rb26. There are also stroker kits that bump them to 3.4. They make even more power.

Ya, this must be a Garret T88. No way a Greddy t88 can make the HP. That would be a fun ride, especially with traction control.

I wouldn't pay someone to instal MS. If you ever have a problem you'll be lost. Installing it is easy.

If you are going with a larger turbo and alcohol, I'm sure you plan to run higher boost. Yes you'll need more fuel. I just don't see how you are going to control fuel and timing under boost with an n/a ecu. The direction you want to take really needs programable.

I don't know if I would install Merkur injector with an N/A ecu. How are you going to tune it? That and a larger turbo + alcohol = more boost. The higher the boost the less room for error.

I can second that. I have mine about 5" off the turbo. Without the heatsink it will error. It's just too much heat there.

I was getting alot of errors until I replaced mine. Anytime I got into it, it would error. I had it for a little over a year before it went.

Whe I had stock diameter springs I cleared a 245. It depends on the offset.

I've run both, 235 and 245. 245's fit perfect IMO. 235 is the narrowest I'd go on an 8". Finding tires for a 15" wheel will be a little harder though.

For what you are paying a shop for labor you could get megasquirt. The afm and tps is 0-5v. If you supect either just measure the voltage through out there range, easy to do.

I know MSII will control a larger injector at idle. I am going to run 680's. With a 4 bar map the table will go to 400 kpa, 300 for 3 bar, it's selectable, don't know about MSnSE. You can use the factory coolant temp sensor and change the value.

Uh, no. They used sequential. On a sequential set up. 2 small turbo's are used. Only one turbo is used at low rpms for fast boost response, then the second turbo comes at higher rpm's to add volume. The first turbo doesn't blow through the second.

The 7mgte and 7mge heads are identical expect for the cams. The 7mgte block has oil squirters and lower c/r pistons. The n/a trans is alot weaker than the turbo trans (r154) but either will bolt to either motor. Used R154's can range fron $200-$400. The R154 also uses a different flywheel and clutch setup, stock they are good for 400rwhp/rwtq though. You will need the driveshaft for whatever trans too. You are better off with a crashed turbo supra. You can get them from local insurance auctions for cheap. I got one for $500. A metal headgasket head gasket will eventually be needed too. Other than that they are easily good for 600 rwhp on a stock bottom end. You can use the 7mgte coil pack with MSII and EDIS, that's what I'm in the middle of swapping over to on mine.

Acutally it's a compound setup. Diesels can run insane boost. Most turbos can only run a high 3:1 pressure ratio, some 4:1. If you plan to exceed the pressure ratio a turbo can run at, say 60 psi or about a 5:1 PR you can pressurize the inlet of the second turbo with 30 psi (3:1 PR) from the first turbo and then have the second turbo run 60 psi (still a 3:1 PR).