MONZTER

I simply dont have time to make anything right now, Its been a busy 6 months. I would be happy to share any cad files or take more photos if anyone needs info to make their own. Jeff

I looked forever to find something close with no luck. I ended up modifying the stock mounts by cutting up the brackets and welding a tube to them the size to fit some urethane moustache bushings. I then made a simple u shaped bracket to accept it. Pics below. The trans mount was way more involved as I moved the motor back and inch as well as using a 240sx gear box. The bushings are urethane from a late model 240 crossmember. Just some ideas for you to think about

You can actually rent a Dewar from Praxair in Santa Anna, It was a few years ago, but I remember it being pretty cheap. BTW Praxair is a welding supply company for those who don’t know. It was a few gallons worth. If you have any extra of the liquid nitrogen you can mix it with milk and have fun with the whole family and some homemade ice cream Yaaaaah. No don’t do this…

I used liquid nitrogen, it literally jumped off the floor in 30 seconds per section Just be safe

The first ones are for my front, using an inner tie rod end for the rear pivot. The front rod end allows for bump steer tuning along with the custom tie rods

Taco gussets are pretty simple to make. Use some paper to make a template or unfold something in Solidworks. Band saw out the flat shape and mark you start and stop bend lines. Get a pc of round steel the inside diameter of the gusset and clamp it in a mill vise with the flat plate at your bend line. Use a dead blow hammer and roll it over. Once you have it past 90 degrees pinch both side around the round steel rod and again dead blow it to shape. A little fine trimming with a Dynafile and your set. Don’t forget the vent holes inside the gussets Click the picture to super size them

Just Kidding. I do have the pump like I said, its on a N/A L-24. Never a problem These pics are of my car from the MSA web site http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PCLC06/16-7025 I always thought this was a nice set-up

I have had one on my 240 for a couple of years now. Daily driving in Southern California. I also have a MSA Aluminum radiator. My car never goes over the Thermostat temp.

The Si valves are great. Been using them for a while, best deal around

There are cheaters and there are losers...

Hey Porsche Guy, Ya, no problem, use the pictures, I have no problem with it. Distance is around 72mm Volume stayed the same per my original plan Good luck with your project Jeff

With that low compression I would stay 270/280 max or loose your bottom end

Sorry Tony and Alan, fixed it and thanks Jeff

Thanks for that Good Info

Hey Paul, What's your thoughts on this- I found out that Schneider cams make two different versions of the same cam http://schneidercams.com/l-series6cylinder.aspx 1.) For carb application it is 107 LCA 2.) For stock EFI application it is 112 LCA Same lift, same duration Make any sense?? Jeff

Yes you are correct, I am old....

Mountain or road bikes?? I'm in..

Raising the compression ratio in combination with more duration in the cams can help with controlling detonation, as the increase in duration will lower the dynamic compression ratio. See below from wikipedia: start quote - Dynamic Compression Ratio The calculated compression ratio, as given above, presumes that the cylinder is sealed at the bottom of the stroke (bottom dead centre - BDC), and that the volume compressed is the actual volume. However: intake valve closure (sealing the cylinder) always takes place after BDC, which causes some of the intake charge to be compressed backwards out of the cylinder by the rising piston at very low speeds; only the percentage of the stroke after intake valve closure is compressed. This "corrected" compression ratio is commonly called the "dynamic compression ratio". This ratio is higher with more conservative (i.e., earlier, soon after BDC) intake cam timing, and lower with more radical (i.e., later, long after BDC) intake cam timing, but always lower than the static or "nominal" compression ratio. The actual position of the piston can be determined by trigonometry, using the stroke length and the connecting rod length (measured between centers). The absolute cylinder pressure is the result of an exponent of the dynamic compression ratio. This exponent is a polytropic value for the ratio of variable heats for air and similar gases at the temperatures present. This compensates for the temperature rise caused by compression, as well as heat lost to the cylinder. Under ideal (adiabatic) conditions, the exponent would be 1.4, but a lower value, generally between 1.2 and 1.3 is used, since the amount of heat lost will vary among engines based on design, size and materials used, but provides useful results for purposes of comparison. For example, if the static compression ratio is 10:1, and the dynamic compression ratio is 7.5:1, a useful value for cylinder pressure would be (7.5)^1.3 × atmospheric pressure, or 13.7 bar. (× 14.7 psi at sea level = 201.8 psi. The pressure shown on a gauge would be the absolute pressure less atmospheric pressure, or 187.1 psi.) The two corrections for dynamic compression ratio affect cylinder pressure in opposite directions, but not in equal strength. An engine with high static compression ratio and late intake valve closure will have a DCR similar to an engine with lower compression but earlier intake valve closure. Additionally, the cylinder pressure developed when an engine is running will be higher than that shown in a compression test for several reasons. The much higher velocity of a piston when an engine is running versus cranking allows less time for pressure to bleed past the piston rings into the crankcase. a running engine is coating the cylinder walls with much more oil than an engine that is being cranked at low RPM, which helps the seal. the higher temperature of the cylinder will create higher pressures when running vs. a static test, even a test performed with the engine near operating temperature. A running engine does not stop taking air & fuel into the cylinder when the piston reaches BDC; The mixture that is rushing into the cylinder during the downstroke develops momentum and continues briefly after the vacuum ceases (in the same respect that rapidly opening a door will create a draft that continues after movement of the door ceases). This is called scavenging. Intake tuning, cylinder head design, valve timing and exhaust tuning determine how effectively an engine scavenges. - end quote Again, like the others said, there is no one magic trick, it is careful planning of all of the right parts working together.

Much of this was on the first page, but I did some flow work since then so here it is again if any of you are thinking reverse flow like I am. I did the design a while ago, but never completed it, it’s now in the "someday" list. It was 1-6 design. Like I said I did some flow study on it because I will be running it reverse, and I wanted to make sure all parts of the head get equal flow. It was necessary to change the size of the feed lines into he head to get even flow. Again this was in a reverse application, I don’t think normal flow would be as difficult. Here are some pics. The final flow pic shows the tube size change, the first pics are old stuff. Here are some Alan T pics

This is what I have been currently riding Carbon 29r with riged carbon fork and some new carbon wheels I Mountain bike and road bike about 4x a week. I use to do endurance races like this http://www.warriorssociety.org/events/vision_quest_general_info.html But I crashed pretty hard 2 years ago and was in the hospital for 10 days. I take it a little easier now as I scared my daugter pretty bad being in the hospital with a bunch of tubes coming out of me. Ride safe