WizardBlack

The A/F ratio range that is acceptable for turbo cars is completely dependent on the engine/turbo/intercooler as well as octane, etc. Rotaries usually stay at 11.0 or richer, whereas a high octane 4G63 can hang (and make best power) upwards of 13.0. To be honest, most tuning stuff is left to tuners and no "rules of thumb" are given due to variations of the particular vehicle. I continue to be surprised by ppl that publish target A/F ratios for turbos. 14.7:1 is indeed stoich, but some cars run somewhat leaner (in cruise) for fuel economy, somewhat richer for high rpm cooling, quite a bit richer for normally aspirated full throttle and in the ranges we discussed for high boost turbos. Watch enough youtube vids of the big posters on here and you'll see a wideband in the corner showing you what they run at. L motors typically run around in the 11's. Be aware that the extra fuel is for cooling purposes to defray detonation. At the same time, the more timing you use, the more the combustion process is occurring in the actual combustion chamber. This increases the heat that is soaked into the engine (which causes detonation). Therefore, most turbo platforms can run richer/more timing or leaner/less timing and anywhere along that sliding scale. Most platforms are identified by tuners as demonstrating a typical sweet spot along the scale. Rotaries are very far toward the rich/retarded end of the range and 4G63's are more toward the lean/advanced end of the range, etc. I have personally found L-motors in the middle, but I never tuned a big range of L-motors during my full-time job as a tuner and my own car runs high octane since I have not had a massive amount of time to dial every last bit out of 17 psi on a stock L28E.

I know whenever I am running around in my car, I always get looks from ppl next to me on the highway since everyone is bigger and higher up than me. Even stuff like s2k's and whatnot that expect to be the 'wittle guy' that performs. Phil, I've painted a couple project cars with lots of mods. Not exactly a perfect car (what car is for a true car guy) but very nice like your S30. I regret that I didn't get LOTS of photos of them after getting them all painted and at a good level of modification. It's good to see you're getting plenty of media on it to save for all time. I wish my S30 was there, but I have a long way to go. Keep it up! There are lots of guys behind ya (time wise) that take lots of encouragement and motivation from your Z and all the great vids you post. Mark

I understand some of the sentiment of other guys' opinions. I'd just say that blacking out the spoiler and flares would probably make it a bit nicer setup. Perhaps with gold wheels if that's not too bold for ya.

Lots of suspension pics and bushing stuff, etc. on this site: http://www.atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html

Yeah, I caught that part, but it seemed like you were saying 'there is no such thing as TTY', or something along those lines. To the OP, you might try giving a good Nissan dealer a ring. They might give ya the spec for the bolts.

Engine coolant temp is deficient to intake temp, even to a top-mounted subaru turbo motor.

Very interesting stuff. Thanks!

Oh, duh. You'll just need to find an owner parting out a car, I suspect. I have one but need it until I get the fuel cell in.

Huh?

I'd go with bronze on silver, but I love gold on most colours.

Don't. Buy. Chinese. Turbos. Here we go again....

Do some research on the turbo boost levels. Your question about the boost controllers, however, is an opinion. Buy a manual boost controller and save the ~$500 from the gizmo-tronic boost controller, IMHO. It has lots of blinky lights and pointless graphics, IMHO, but a certain crowd seems to approve of that sort of thing. Nothing beats a mechanical boost gauge or a high speed stepper boost gauge, so you can see pulsations, etc in the signal. The Blitz LED setup won't give you (or rather your tuner) the highest degree of feedback on what's going on. I used to operate a speed shop specializing in turbo imports, so I've used most of the EBC's sold over the last 10 yrs. If you gotta have an EBC, I'd recommend the GReddy Profec-B. If you want an opinion to reinforce the Blitz choice, go check out zilvia.net, nicoclub.com, etc. There are a million SR20DET cars on there that have already answered these questions many times.

Shame on you! Where's your Search-Fu? You appear to have this style: http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/15338/10002/-1# It uses the standard GM 0~90 Ohm Fuel Level Sending Unit which works with an Autometer Gauge. It's just a rheostat. Here is your instructions: http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInstructions/500/555/555-15352.pdf

Are you referring to a Fuel Pump Relay?

You can get those (probably for less) at a Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.

Maybe it was meant to be the other way around.. Car has wide body because of the salvage title. Dunno.

I don't know which generation/motor you are referring to, but if you really gotta have the vehicle specific threshold and battery compensation, download AEM EMS software and their basemap for that engine. They check the injectors and it is included in the basemap.

Yep.

The big wig should be out and about selling policies and helping his customers. Give them a bit of time; they don't always stay in the office, but they should be good about getting back to you.

If you don't stop throwing MB part numbers around, I am going to have to learn another brand line.

Limited? What's limited about twin turbos? To the OP, if you think that dropping an L28ET in is the same difficulty level and price range as installing a VQ powertrain, then you definitely need to do some more searching. I would recommend L-series in that case.

By the way, post 13 of my build thread includes my notes on how it affects bleeding the cooling system and some other minor things if anyone intends to do it. Build thread | V

I am not sure that doing five of the six is a good way to go. I believe we talked about that earlier in the thread and Tony made some great comments on it. If you did all of them, you still have a flow bias, no? Someone who remembers their engineering better than I could confirm, but you could very well increase the discrepancy.

LOL, thanks. Overall pics are on my build thread (in my sig). I need to update it, but my "to install" stack of parts is getting larger than my accomplished list. The neck is corroded a bit, so definitely difficult to get really clean. The inside is deburred, smoothed, etc. just like the front cover's coolant circuit, however. Eventually (if I still stick with L-motors) it will have a nice billet plate with AN fitting instead. I am contemplating if drilling a (very) carefully placed 1/2" hole at each tap spot is beneficial to clean the cooling jackets (and then install a threaded plug) wouldn't be helpful. Honestly, I've been wondering why my stock N42/N47 motor doesn't make more power at 15 psi with new HG, rebuilt top end and isky cam than getting the cooling system better.

Bo's goes through a turbo (to get heated even more) before going to that point. Expediency is true, yes. It works, so I am happy. I think making the flow even was a higher priority than overall load on the cooling system. It's not a perfect solution, I know. I also reasoned that this would help boost the flow through those two cylinders versus routing both to the t-stat housing; helping overcome the natural restrictions in the head jacket there.