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Fuel cell Hood scoop or air cleaner stuck through hood with no hood scoop?

Here's a good one...just finished putting it back together. Fresh $10K roller motor in the Z, drove it around at the shop a little bit and the remote filter adapter was leaking a little oil through a gouge in the gasket surface. So I order up a new one, swap the lines and fitting over, putting them in the same location that they were on the old one, did a bunch of other work over the next couple of days, then fired it up to take it for a spin. I failed to look at the oil pressure gauge (which I always do on startup) and took it around the block, only noticing the lack of oil pressure when I got back to the house. Crap, wiped out the rod bearings and put a little bit of wear into the mains. Crank shows a little scratching but nothing major. I just finished re-bearing-ing the motor....and hooking the lines up right. God I felt like an idiot.

If the pedal feels OK, drive it home....just be careful and take it easy on the brakes, leaving yourself plenty of room to stop. When you get home, take the rear wheel off the side its NOT pulling to, and see what broke.

Thanks Grumpy. I had my machinist buddy come by the house tonight to get his opinion on the crank condition, and had him bring me a set of bearings just incase. In my opinion, the crank was not perfect, but not too bad. I've assembled engines with used cranks in the same or slightly worse condition and had no problems. He took one look at the crank underneith the few rod and main caps that I pulled, and told me to put bearings in it and quit worrying. The scratches in the crank were visual only, but I still didn't like them being there. I couldn't feel them with my fingernail....which I guess is the official go/no-go test. We argued about it for a bit, and he convinced me that I'd have no problems whatsoever using the crank as it was, so I followed the advice I was given and installed new rod and main bearings from the bottom. I just finished the job, and got all the oil lines hooked up properly (I triple checked this time). I'll throw the pan on tomorrow after work and take it for a spin. Here's a trick if any of you have to do this job. Sometimes the main bearing shells are a bitch to get out of the block....get a 16 penny nail, cut it about 1/2 inch underneith the head, and stick it in the oil hole in the crank so just the head is sticking out on the surface of the crank. Then turn the crank in the appropriate direction...the nail head will catch the bearing and spin it right out of the block. You can use the same trick for installation of the new shell, but get it started by hand first and be careful not to damage the bearing.

Well, I'm yanking the motor and getting the crank machined, new bottom end and cam bearings at the very least.....I'm hoping my roller lifters and cam are OK, but I've got to inspect them too. I feel really stupid for this, but it happened, so I've got to fix it.

only because I don't have enough money left to cover the ebay listing fees.... Got enough for a couple six packs tonight though....speaking of which, I'm empty...gotta go get another one.

FIGURED IT OUT!!!....The problem was caused by a poor assumption on my part. I just replaced the remote filter housing with a new one, made by PermaCool, just like the old one with damaged threads in it. I ASS-U-ME-d that since they were both made by the same manufacturer, they were the same...when in fact, they are both different. The inlets and outlets are in the opposite locations on the new one (which I installed Friday night). I didn't think twice about the plumbing...just transfered the lines over. I haven't started the car since then. Anyway, Either the filters or the housing have check-valves in them, and the way the new housing was plumbed, I was getting no flow through the filters, and consequently no oil pressure. As luck would have it, that 1 lap around the block wiped out the bearings and there are some very fine scratches in the crank. The motor is coming out tomorrow night, and I'll get the crank reground and try it again. I hope someone out there is learning from all my troubles.

OK, your post made me second guess myself. I went down to my storage and yanked the rear cap off of another core and sure enough...there's the plug. I don't get it. How come no air at all went through the system with the plug in place? Dist tang, pump, and driveshaft are good. Oil filters were removed from the system when I did the air test, just an open line remained. So I guess I'm taking the pan off again, and probably yanking the motor out to find what the hell is blocking what passage and where.

OK....I knocked the plug out and blew air through the system....I get oil coming out around all the bearings. But, before I checked that, I removed the line going from my adapter to the remote filters, and with the plug still in place, had no flow through that line (with 150psi air pressure). With the plug removed, I had excellent flow through the line (thats what reminded me to hook it back up....dad came out and said "whats all that air coming out of this hose for?"). This tells me that the plug I'm referring to isn't the same one as the other thread refers to. I had ZERO flow anywhere with the plug in place, and good flow everywhere with the plug gone. After I hooked it back up, the oil came through the bearings. I put the pump back up, put the pan back on, primed it (with a homemade primer on a makita drill, the gauge registered 40psi....I also noticed that there was much more resistance when priming it this time...it almost stalled my drill). Fired it up and the gauge went to 80 psi, under throttle it went to 90, and after the oil temp was at 180, pressure dropped to 60 at idle and around 85 at high RPM. Now I've got a motor that makes good oil pressure and I'm covered in silicone. I would like once, just once, to put a motor together and not have yank the pan off within 20 miles. The plug in question clearly wasn't supposed to be there. It came out remarkably easy. The pump spinning backward when I removed the primer was caused by the excessive pressure built up between the pump and the plug, and when I released the primer, the pressure released itself back through the pump, spinning it backwards. It all makes sense in my little brain, but if anyone sees anything wrong at this point...please lemme know.

The motor has made 70psi cold and 35 hot at idle up until now... OK, the pan is down (I was able to get it off without removing anything else) and the pump is out. The pump looks fine, no cracks, the gears look good. I tried to blow compressed air into the pressure port on the rear main cap, and nothing happened...no oil dripping out of the bearings, nothing...until I released the blow gun, then I got a faceful of oil. I pulled the rear main cap, and up inside the pressure hole in the block, I saw a freeze plug. I don't have another block here to check and see if its supposed to be there, but I think its not supposed to be there. I knocked it out with a piece of welding rod through the oil pressure sender hole in the back of the block. Does anyone have a block they can check to see if a freeze plug belongs there before I put it all back together? Which begs the question....if its not supposed to be there...where the hell did it come from, and how did the engine make oil pressure up until now? It looks remarkably like one of the cam galley plugs behind the timing chain The only thing I can think of is that maybe I missed it when I cleaned the block, and it was stuck in the hole sideways and just now decided to flip around, but I dunno.

OK, no oil flowing at all looking down the distributor hole while spinning the pump. I should also add that I pulled the oil pressure sender out and fired the motor for a few seconds with no oil coming out.

So I got the car all ready to run it down to the shop and leave it there, but decided to take a quick rocket run around the block to make sure everything was OK. I glanced down at the gauges about 1/2 way around the block, and no oil pressure. I idled it home and parked it. I pulled the distributor and ran the pump with my battery drill....there is definately resistance, like the pump is making pressure, but nothing shows up on the gauge...so I took the fitting out of the block in the back and spun the pump again, nothing comes out of the hole. then I pulled the plug above the timing cover that connects to the lifter oil galley and spun the pump again...no oil came out. Whats strange, is that after I spin the pump with my drill, and yank the tool out of the pump, the pump sort of recoils and spins backwards about 10 or 15 times, and makes a noise like a bicycle freewheeling. I've read the stories about the Melling pumps cracking, and I checked to make sure I had the right part number before I installed it....the casting looked pretty beefy to me. Any idea before I start tearing the motor out again?

I've got a set, brand new, that I'll sell you cheap if you want to try them out. I ended up going with the Z31 front hubs and the MM rear stub axles for my conversion.

I built a (halfway worthless) exhaust system for it last night...dual 3 inch with mandrel bends an a couple of 24" glasspacks tucked up underneith the driveshaft with turnouts right before the diff. It quieted it down enough for me to here the valves ticking away, so I yanked the valve covers and readjusted them. They still tick, but the cam grinder called for .026 lash, so I guess I'm stuck with some valve noise....no big deal. I also jetted down the primaries and set the timing and 36 total. I'm wiring up all the lights tonight, and I'll take it down to the shop on Saturday and run it around a bit. (I got it registered and insured last week). I'm still having brake problems. The motor only makes about 3"/hg of vacuum at idle, and at most I see about 13" momentarily after snapping the throttle. The booster needs 18-20" to work properly. I put pressure gauges on the front calipers, and I can get 500psi without any assist and 1100psi with assist, so even though I'm not making sufficient vacuum for the booster to work properly, I still have more than adequate circuit pressure to stand the car up on its nose. I'm going to try to bed the pads in again, but I got them pretty hot last weekend, so they should be OK. If I can't get them bedded right by 2 footing it all the way to the shop, I'll throw some different pads on and try it again.

The TKO 600 is rated at 600ft/lbs. The T56 is rated at about 460ft/lbs IIRC...the tremec site is down so I can't verify that. I think the TKO 600 is the strongest syncro box available right now. Richmond can't touch the TKO600 torque rating I don't think.

The spacers have their own studs....so you don't need longer studs in the hub/stub axle. Oh, they are for 5 lug, not four lug. I'm using coil overs...theres no way in hell that the fronts or rears would fit with the stock spring perches.

Got kinda busy...I'll try to get everything out tomorrow.

Hey Davy, I've got a spare set of 2" spacers if you need some...$75, thats what I paid for them.

Davy...they are 17s..315/35/17s in the back and 275/40/17s in the front. Jt1....the body mods are made entirely of bondo. The prick I bought it from apparently couldn't weld....so he just layered it on. It looks good, but I'd bet there is 50 lbs of bondo on the car.

I'll break you in easy.... For starters, spend a week or so reading all the FAQs on this board and also use the SEARCH feature for any questions you might have. Most every question has already been answered..several times. Most of the members don't like answering the same questions over and over, so the response you will get is "SEARCH". Now that we've got that out of the way.. For your clutch, you're using a T5...which one? I would recommend one that came from behind a V8 camaro, as the 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder ones are junk. Even the earlier v8 camaro Non-worldclass transmissions are only rated at about 160ft/lbs of torque. If you get the 89-92 camaro V8 trans, you will have a T-5 World Class, which is rated at around 300lb/ft of torque. I have one for sale if you don't have the gearbox yet. For the flywheel, get on ebay....you can get new SFI approved lightweight steel flywheels for around $80. The clutch depends on which trans you get. Figure out the splines. The WC T5 is a 28 spline (IIRC), so you would need as 28 spline clutch. Most GM V8 clutches come 2 ways....10 spline or 28 spline. You can use either a 10.5 or 11" clutch, either the stock camaro clutch or a centerforce....just make sure that the flywheel you get has the correct bolt pattern for whichever size clutch you buy. As for the fuse box and harness, make a list of all the electrical functions that the car will need. I run a 6 circuit fuse box. One circuit for all the instruments One circuit for the starter One circuit for the fan One circuit for the ignition One circuit for the fuel pump One circuit for the brake lights Its a race car, so thats all I need. If you need more circuits, make a list and count them. You can also combine low amp devices on one circuit if you need to.

Functional??? They look kinda cool...and I think that was their intended function, so sure...they're functional. Aerodynamically, I have no idea if they do anything. The do go through to the wheel house, so they will probably contribute to reducing pressure if there is any, but I dunno. They were there when I bought it.

No, I'm using the TKO 600 5spd, and the motor can go back another 3 inches, but static weight distribution is about 50/50 right now, so I'll leave it alone until I get some tracktime with it.

I have the 10.5s in the back. They need a 2" spacer to clear the strut. I had the spacers made at WheelAdapter.com. I've also got a set of non-hubcentric spacers that I bought...if any one needs a set. The engine is in the scarab position. I put the car on the scales last night and front to rear is 50.1/49.9. Total weight full of fuel (22 gallons) without me in it was 2575lbs, which is about 275 more than I was hoping for...so I've got to find somemore weight to cut out. I'll run it around for the first couple events with the engine where it is, and if I feel like I need more rear weight, maybe I'll move it back a few inches.

I dunno. I got an R200 and I bought the 240Z diff off ebay...everything fit so I didn't bother counting splines.

Tomorrow at work I can go pull and compare samples of all the different toyota 4 piston calipers. I'll try to get some specs up.