Daeron

Well, its rare enough that my Dad had a tough time getting a stock tank for his 78 280. I wanted to point it out; I didn't read the whole thread, I simply searched it for the work "tank" and found nothing, so I asked. If the tank is in crummy shape, then i guess whatever, heh. Hopefully someone notices this because I said it and they will snap it up for the price of free and go to the effort of fixing it.. if its worth it.. otherwise it just proves that I'm useless

HAHA, you screwed up!!1!1111!! (please take this in the right humor, im being funny:ass:)

Three years in October since my car got fried, and three years since I have driven a Z. Click the phrase "Fusible links blow" in my sig for that story (beware its long.) Sunday, if all goes as planned, I should be driving my brothers' 240Z in an Equipe Rapide autocross event at Moroso Motorsports park in Palm Beach Gardens, Florida. Now, I haven't even driven this car yet.. and its my first time out on a track.. so I am going to be GRANDMA about it and do not give two FIGS about my times.. The car is a joint project between two of my brothers, one of whom recently had shoulder surgery. He wants the car driven by two drivers at least, in each event, soooo... heheheheheh. Even though I don't anticipate approaching even 85% of what I might COULD do in the car, I KNOW I am gonna have me some FUN!!!

I just searched this thread for the word "tank" and it didnt find anything, so apologies if it has already been discussed... BUT KEEP THE GAS TANK!!! Sell it on ebay, if nothing else! IIRC, 77 and 78 each had unique gas tanks and they are not cheap to buy! Don't let one go to the crusher, SOMEone wants it.

stab in the dark, are you positive that you havent switched the X and Y axis and rotated your switches 90 degrees, turning Up/Down into Left/Right? I can see where that might cause a problem, so I figured I would mention it in case it hasn't occurred to you.

I have seen the Fuji Boomerang on a number of bits of my datsun, as well as hitachi and N-D and niles and so many other component manufactorers on both cars.. In fact, I have deeply considered the viability of using a pair of my GL-10's SPFI TBs on SU manifolds as a quick and dirty FI conversion, and hope to someday sit down with my uncle and build one of his roadsters inot a MS FI car with the various ignition and induction parts from both subaru and datsun. After all, "SU" Carbs are all really hitachi "knockoffs" anyhow. In any case, between the Z car ignition bits, the stock roadster ignition bits, and the subaru ignition bits, I should be able to hobble something together to go in the distributor slot of the roadster engine, yet provide a computer with the right output for FI control. (the FI sooby distributor has an optical pickup wheel built into it, and there are two different flavors, one maunfactured by ND and one hitachi.)

Fascinating... I know there is ALOT of fuji heavy industries in the car, but I hadnt suspected the cylinder head, heh... Come to think of it, the P series CC and the one on my 87 Subaru GL-10 are essentially identical in shape.. now you got me wondering, and something tells me that IF I ever hear the answer, its going to be a looong time. Not to question your facts, but I am curious where you picked up this bit of knowledge.. inquiring minds want to know.

maybe 1500 pounds? probably in the 15-1800 pound ballpark somewhere. Maybe a bit less; the way I see it is the trans itself has to be about 120 full of fluid, the engine, accessories, clutch flywheel, full of oil and water, another 5-700, the rear diff about 80, and the drive axles etc around 50.. fudge all factors by about 20%, and thats a good SWAG.

does arizona Z-cars give you an in-state resident discount??? Nice work man, that is impressive design and quarterbacking there.. I saw the silver and blue flames Z and thought, "Oh!! It's THAT guy! Yah, he does nice work.."

Dude!! WRONG place!

The Lucky Seatbelt!

sorry to be funny guy about it.... ...but have you checked the cataclysmic converter?

This one sounds *juuuuuuuuust* right. Don't get me wrong, all those turbos sound incredible... but theres special noise that a weber makes, or something. The SUs sound good, but not enough to make it preferable over the turbos like the triple webers or solexes or whatever.. Wish I had something to post to add to the discussion.

we can't see the car and make a good, honest firsthand judgment.. but I say "salvageable." Would I write that chassis off? no.. but I don't know how eager I would be to buy it in the first place. You won't be the first, if you DO opt to repair it. Especially for something like a track car, where a cage may wind up being welded into the vehicle anyhow, rusted rails like that are no big deal.. other rust on the vehicle is an issue, and DEFINITELY needs to be thoroughly addresses, but in the end it is up to you.

you wont find Z-cars in tuner magazines unles its a tuber build.. the RB swap is getting more popular now so you might see one of those, but to find a sports car you look in sports car magazines, not tuner magazines. Personally, I am not much of a magazine person in general; so I cant give you any titles.. but, its a sports car, not a hot rod and not an import compact tunermobile....

Thats about what I figured, but I had to ask. makes perfect sense, now that I have seen it.

grumpyvette: Google congress auto parts. They actually have a FANTASTIC website that basically gives you terminal access that is almost the same as what the guys behind the counter have. This might be of some service to you. When I discovered the website, I was amazed. For the rest of the world, Congress Auto supply is a small local chain that some of us find a great deal of pleasure in maintaining a relationship with.. not quite rock bottom prices, but good enough and worth using if they know you.

I got as far as 20B 3.... and my eyes started blinking rapidly, and eventually twitching. 3 rotor oompah!! I say thats the ticket right there. would that be a major investment for you to do? the mere fact that you even bring it up suggests that it may be more in the realm of possibility for you than many...?

Funny, I just finally decided to formalize the clutter in the bottom of my toolbox into a coffee can, myself... Theres nothing like a bolt bucket, BUT you would be surprised how easy it is to acquire several of the odder bolts simply by finding the right cars in the junkyard. As for obtaining a collection beforehand, that is ALWAYS a wise idea and it is at least a hair better (possibly somewhat more) than using JY bolts.. but don't go too crazy, and plan on restocking certain sizes. Nuts and washers are more valuable to purchase this way than bolts, but a limited supply is worthwhile. someone mentioned above, so grab a couple dozen bolts of varying length, I would concentrate on 8, 10m and 12 mm although the smaller ones do seem to go quicker once you find a place that needs them. Retaining clips, the slide onto a hole in sheetmetal and screw a machine screw into, are also a wise investment. If you can get a nice drawer setup with a stock of bolts, nuts, washers and lockwashers, then by all means go for it; speaking from experience it feels good each and every single time you reach in there and grab what you need. I reach for the buckets as often as the drawers, when I have access to my uncle's stuff but each situation calls for one or the other.

very few threads ever actually get deleted. We add to the archives every time we post. Back on topic, I want to ask the OP a question.. Am I correct in understanding that you are telling us that you had a stock turbo engine, along with a totally bone stock turbo car, that developed a lower end knock, and you replaced that longblock assembly with a similar, "stockish" turbo engine that had nothing except the cam kit installed, and now you expect the boost to come on in the same way? I cannot specifically answer your vacuum related questions off the top of my head, but to change the camshaft in an engine is tot totally change the way it breathes; I would certainly anticipate a change in boosting behavior of some sort, and you wouldn't be the first one to install a camshaft into an otherwise stock turbo car and lose performance. I am not the one to direct further questions to, as I am but a humble regurgitator here to save those with more knowledge than I some time.. but dare I suggest that things are running perfectly normally given a non stock camshaft and an EFI/ignition system that still expects the stocker in there?

I presume that the ridge line parallel to the flow of air through the ports, that is bisected by the valve guide, is there to enhance swirl? Or is that simply tapering the existing valve guide ie, "streamlined leading and trailing edge" rather than totally grinding it down? Grasshopper ask simple question, and smile politely.

awesome AWESOME video, great choice of music. Did you manipulate the replay speed of any of that video, or did you manage to synch the music up that well with naturally timed clips? I was amazed how well the song fit the clips as they progressed. Another question, what is that "cruck" (car/truck) I see twice in the vid? First it looks as if it is parked in the lot where you all pull out of, facing the left.. then again it drives past in the background right at 1:45. It doesnt look like a Brumby (Australian model name for the Subaru BRAT) but what else could it be? that dodge thingy? a Merkur?!??? On further review, it may even be two different vehicles, since in the first image there appears to be a camper shell on the bed, but when it drives by later there is no camper shell.. curiouser and curiouser. Thanks for that awesome footage of all those RHD S30s! Positive rating given on youtube.

No it isn't, he wants a purple one.

Thats beautiful, man. The welds really balance out the entire top of the piece; as a finished unit its visual appeal is much more apparent. I am sure the buyer is going to love it. Top notch work, as usual.

4 cylinders, 4 on the floor, 2 passenger maximum cargo load!