jeffer949

Why is it that dangerous. No its not a speed anything but it would be fine for crusing. I lived in daytona beach for 6 years and there is a bunch of bugs that are converted like this. Why is it any different?

you could get more from the scrap yard for it than 35 bucks.. So it would be worth it

Kroger in Nashville has Premium for 2.64 with your kroger card

Ive always used copper cote on my MLS HG. And im sure it can be reused.

awsome that would be sweet

My sisters mother in law has a coolant leak on her intake manifold gasket on her 99 blazer with a 4.3l v6. Im going to fix it but she wants an estimate on how much its going to cost her. Anybody have access to a flate rate manual to tell me how many hours to charge her? thanks. Also is there an online sorce for this?

Awesome. Once i get settled here in Nashville I plan on getting one of these to start building. It was either 2jz or this and i think this will be way cooler and more rare. Mine WILL be turbo'ed so Ill have to get the stronger transmission.

Well I guess you could drill a hole for it.........But that is probably to much work..........................

Thats what Im talking about. I liked the other fiberglass/CF but i hated that you had to reuse the top metal part of the door panel. Just killed it for me. But these i like alot.

You kept the file for all this right? Cause I might have to bug ya for one of these shortly.

That wont work. That is a switch not a sensor. Check ebay im sure you can find one on there.

I think that a nitrous sprayer would be way easier and cheaper. And you get the cool spray thing when you get ready to go. Im looking at getting it for my set up.

Mine is close to the spring pearch. Like under 1/4" I havent taken them off now that i have 2k to see if they have rubbed.

Just a thought that im sure you have thought of. Make sure that there is some give betwen the intake and the cowl so that it can give some when the engine torque's over. Its pretty solidly mounted but there will be some give

Its shipped. just got back from the pos office. You will get it this week.

Sorry for the delay. Its going out today. Ill pm you with details

I have taken it out. Just not recently. On my first trip from Daytona to nashville i took it out but it didnt change anything. Im running MS1+extra with the V3.0 board. running 29v code.

Im running BR8ES pluggs and was running bpr8es-11 plugs at first. My injectors are NA rx7 460 cc injectors and are high Z. so thats why im lost on why it could be causing my problem even though it sounds exactly like what my problem is. So can the flyback portion of the board be taken out?

You mean like i just said in my post about a imbalance in the system due to a leak?? imagne that.

Have you tried unplugging it to see if the light goes out? Mine used to stay on so i just unplugged it. Also If im not mistaken the brake light comes on when there is an imbalance in the brake system. At least on my 74 below the mastercylinder on the fender there is a balance thingy(cant think of the correct word right now) that has an electrical plug on the middle of it It has brake lines going in and out of it. Ive been told that if there is an imbalance in the brake system say you have a leak somewhere in the rear. A little plunger on the inside of the balance thing would get pushed one way because the front brake system is stonger than the rear and makes contact with the wire and turns your brake light on. Hope that helps. It should be in the FSM

Well i made it back to nashville. Turns out a good fix for the resets is driving over a 10 foot extention ladder on the interstate. lol Ya not really. but it did go away for a bit. But its still there. 700ish miles and 413 resets. Not the best way to have a trip. But it did make it back to nashville. It only erased the firmware twice. And that was actually with in 40 miles of starting my trip. Still REALLY annoying. Here is a list of everything I have done up till now to try and fix it. 1. Switched from NGK plug wires to Magnacor's and didnt change a thing. 2. Switched my MAT and CLT sensors over to sheilded wire. This helped for a little while. Now if it was just a fluke or something we will never know. 3. Tried to repair relay board. did this at the same time i did the sheilded wire. either it helped or didnt for a little bit. Who knows 4. Replaced the relay board with a new kit from DIY autotune. No dice. Didnt change anything. 5. Replaced the 250kpa map sensor with a 4bar one with realtime baro correction. This was just a shot in the dark with the map sensor. But I was wanting to upgrade anyway so I tried it. Once again. No dice. But when it does run. It does pull smoother up top because my boost was spiking over 21psi at times. And now its getting a accurate signal. 6. Installed like 6 more ground wires. All over the place from the battery to the chassie and to the engine. Didnt seem to help any. 7. Ive installed all kinda of noise filters or capacitors. I have noise filters on +12 constant going into the relay board, +12 going into the MSD 6A box. Capacitors on the fuel pump, alternator, None of these seemed to help. I am going to put a few more on tomorrow. On the +12v for the CAS and the +12v for my wide band. 8. I switched my cas from the stock 280zxt cas to a 85 300zxt cas. Whilei still used the 280zxt wheel. Didnt seem to help any. 9. Changed my alternator to a 240sx unit out of the junk yard but it didnt changeanything. I had it tested before i put it on and it was in working order. 10. Ive taken out my MS unit and tried reflowing any joints that looked questionable. Didnt really find any and didnt change anything. Ive also obviously checked all grounds, cleaned all grounds. Cleaned the dizzy cap and rotor, changed the spark plugs. cleaned the terminals on the batter like 5 times. I was doing some reading on the MS forums and there was some posts about taking the 12v from the flyback cuircut and taking it out somewhere else. It wasnt to clear. Now they say this should only affect people with low z injectors. Now I have high Z injectors but the symptoms seem to follow what they are talking about. So since i dont really need the flyback cuircut can I take it out completely? My thinking is that maybe its not opperating correctly and by taking it out will remove that possibility alltogether. Wel thats where Im at right now. Oh ya and my car has a bad vibration over 95mph ever since i hit that ladder. But i dont think its my wheels because i didnt driver over it that way. it went under my car but thats for a different post.

Ive found mandrelbendingsoultions.com to have gret prices. Its where i get all my stuff at

Well a new relay board and a new map sensor didnt fix it. Im going to try a different cas in my distributor. It seems to do it at higher RPM's and thats the only thing that spinning that i havent changed so ill give it a shot. I have a 700 mile road trip today so wish me luck. Ill try not to spill water on my laptop this time.

I know how you feel Phil. I changed my alternator to a 240sx unit today and it started working much better.. We will see what happens tomorrow.

I honestly thought a 12 secound car would be fast enough. Well that didnt last long. About to the time that I ran a 12.8 at the track with lowered boost to help my clutch not to slip so much and it still slipped, and with my horrible driving and hitting the rev limiter a few times. So right now im kinda hoping that a 11 sec car will be fast enough. Cause I cant afford to build a faster engine right now lol.