jeffer949

That S30 looked kinda busted. It was all saggy in the rear and the front end was pointing to the moon.

ouch. See another reason you shouldnt smoke!!

Id like to know if you can get this to work also. Im really wanting to install cruise control into my Z for the 12hr. trips from FL to TN. or from TN to KS

Not sure on the zx's but im pretty sure they are the same. There is linkage that is controls both of the wipers by the same motor so something came apart or broke. You need to take your cowl off and have a look.

Glad to see you got the zip tie on the front fork to measure how much travel your using.

Well Im going to call this one licked. It was my damn MSD 6A. I took it out and it was gone. I had it wired up so the it was getting its switched power from the same source as my MegaSquirt. So IDK if i could of changed that and it would of worked but I took it out and I havent had a noticable reset since. I did also make a new fuel injector injector wiring harness but i dont think that had anything to do with it.

WOW im an idiot. My belt was slipping. hence why it would charge when it was cold and then when it would warm up the belt would start slipping and stop working. I was out of adjustment so i went and got a new belt that was a size smaller. i think it was a 17340 instead of the 17350 that is for the car. I think part of this has to do with the fact that i have the professional products dampener from MSA and its has a smaller diameter so i couldnt get my belt tight enough. And on the switch i installed It is supposed to be closed all the time if any body reads this. So basically you dont even need it there.

Ok so i have been fighting a charging problem for about 2 weeks now. Ive replaced my battery my alternator and ive rewired the charging circuit so that its completely separate. Ive been going off of this diagram that i found on atlanticz.ca And here is a ruff diagram of what i have done exactly. It does not charge all the time though. When it does charge it charges at 14.6 volts pretty much all the time just not at idle and it comes down to like 13.5 i think. It seems to charge normally at first but if i let the revs come down and idle after a while it stops charging. and wont come back on. unless I turn my car off and start it again. Also i wouldnt say its not charging at all its just not giving a full charge. It normally will stay around 12v's ish but very slowly drop and this is at night with lights, heater, wipers all on and running My MSNS. And it did this for at least 85 miles the past 2 days. but the battery was down to about 11volts last night when i checked when i got home. On the circuit above i have the switch and the light going to the L post. I put the switch in there because i wasnt sure which way was correct to wire it up. So which is the correct way? Ive read some stuff on the GM 10SI alternators that say you need a resistor inline to the L post to give it an initial load. Do you think i need that or is the lamp good enough? Im at a loss hear. Any help would be appreciated. Im sick of having to charge my battery every day to get to work and keeping an extra batter in the back just in case. Thanks

Its been running better but it's been messing up and getting what i think are resets(I say think because my laptop got stolen so i cant be for sure) Not nearly as many as i used to get. Some days it wont have any but then the next it will be back. I still haven't separated the grounds yet. I just started working this past week again so ill have some more money to throw at it. Im fighting a charging problem right now so thats taking priority. I may say screw it and order a new MS. Ive read that the 3.47 board has the ground issues cleared up. We will see. Will probably be a few weeks till I get to that point yet. I thought of something else the other day also. Its that my MSD box and my MS box are both getting there switched power from the same point. So im thinking that maybe the MSD box is backfeeding into the MS somehow. So im going to try to move my switched power to another location for my MS relay board.

Bandit50. I guarantee that he has thought this through. Derek has the skills and most importantly the TOOLS to do this correctly. Yes a fuel rail would be easier and maybe even perform better but thats not what Derek is going for. Remember here is his criteria for this project. 1. Look cool. 2. Look really cool 3. Actually run.

Its not only the bumpers but more the bumper shocks. Those weigh alot more than the bumpers themselves. There is also some extra bracing inside of the doors that adds some weight also.

On the part of it where your car goes lean. I had a problem like that and it turned out to be really dirty battery terminals. I was amazed at how much clean terminals made my car run better. Im on a mac so i cant look at your datelog. But what does your battery voltage look like? is it all over the place? Ive been fighting some resetting issues for probably about a 4-5 months now. Ive finally gotten it to where the car is drivable but im this close to ordering another MS probably the 3.57 board because its supposed to have different ground plans for less noise. But there is still a few things i need to try. Go read this thread on this other forum. I did the part with the R/C filter on the backside of the board and it really stablized my voltage. I was pretty impressed. Im still getting a voltage spike every now and then but its livable. I have made the seperate ground board for it on the back but i dont have any extra FET mounting kits laying around so that i can mount it. I just need to order them. Well here is the link http://www.diyefi.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=285&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=10

Looking great derek. Also you will be able to get rid of that block heater you have on your car once you go to full megasquirt! lol It doesn't need to be warm to run smoothly! And im sure it will work also. You think things through way to well for it not to. NOW HURRY UP!!!! you need to have this at DNI this year

I was actually talking about the Injector clips for the electrical. Just make sure you have enough room to get them off and on before they hit the fuel line.

I agree VERY trick looking. Just make sure you can get your Injector clips on and off easily.

You have to cut some wires. to do it. But Its knowing wich ones you can and can not cut which is key. And It looks like you have a turbo engine. Are you trying to run a stock NA efi on a turbo motor?? cause if you are it isnt going to run that well and you might damage something.

the 240sx clutch will work ive ran one. But you have to use the correct throw out bearing collar. I believe you need a longer one.

Ya the guy gave up on trying to get it started. I bought it as a non runner with the gas tank out. Cleaned it out a little bit and got fresh fuel to the injectors and it fired right up lol. He was going to scrap it and thats what the scrap yard told him they would give for it. lol

All turbo 280zx's came with a R200 3.54 rear end and with the cv's If you have an early 260 or 240 you can even use the companion flanges. If you have a late 260 or 280 you will have to use Modern Motorsports cv adaptors. so to recap. All 280zxt's have a 3.54 R200 in them. Oh buy the way i got my whole turbo 280zxt for 200 bucks!!!!!! lol but i got lucky.

I think the general consensus is that they dont hold up well to a turbo engine. But for your NA build im sure pretty much anything should be strong enough. Probably even a stock clutch could hold the power.

I like the Idea. Especially with the 3.15. Ive always missed my 3.36 R180

I dont see how you plan on running these wheels with out flares. They stick out alot. They will rub over almost any bump.

You can also use a flywheel off of a pathfinder and a few other nissan trucks. Its a 240mm and it doesnt have the "cooling ring". It only has 6 bolts for the PP though. Which wouldnt be a big deal if your redrilling it. I have one in my car at the moment. And thanks for the info on putting a bigger clutch on also.

I want to get a scope soon. Anybody on here used one of the USB scopes??

1st gen Eclipse DSM