jeffer949

Go check the map sharing thread. I deleted all my files from when i was running low Z injectors. one of the threads says 1.0 .10 45 1.0 that was for stock zxt inj.

Its under the engine constraints right under the required fuel. At least on msns extra it is.

What board do you have 2.2 or 3.0? the 3.0 has a active flyback circuit to where you dont need the resistor pack.

I need to get mine done. When i was in my wreck a few months ago I was sure it was gonna be totaled and I was going to have to buy it back. The guy said the value of my car was somewhere around 10k I was like WHAT??? That was with out even opening the hood. Its nice to see that insurance companies are saying they are worth more but I dont think I could of sold my car for that much back then. Maybe now with the new paint and wheels. Not with the rustoleum paint job. I need to get my appraised but i need to get a job and a place to keep her first cause i figure my payment will go up some cause i moved.

I remember that subject also. If i recall correctly it was brian(1 fast Z) that was the person who did alot of the testing. I would contact him as he is a BIG believer of the f54 blocks being junk. His L31DETT engine is on a n-42 block.

I have to say that im really liking the idea of the efi fuel pump on the carbs. Would explain why it runs ok for a bit and then if you turn it off and try to start it back up it starts making noise. What is he using to check to see what the fuel pressure is?

So why not take the gas tank out and SEE if it is dirty or not? its not that hard.

Lol thats all i have to say about that. Have fun trying to jimmy rig it together. Oh btw an EXPERT as you put it would tell you to do it correctly with an aftermarket ECU.

Wait............................................... Let me get this straight. Your running a t3/t4 turbo on the stock electronics?? And then you just expected to tweak the afm a little bit to get it to run correctly?? (goes into corner and beats head on the wall for a minute) K Im back now. Of course your gonna run lean. Your new turbo is flowing more air than your ecu can support. How do you suspect it to get enough fuel. You made no changes to the fuel system. If you up the air going in you HAVE to up the fuel going in also. You cant just bolt on a big turbo and expect it to run correctly.

anywho.com

1100kpa is 16psi? dang i must need to go back to school. lol thats something around 145lbs of boost!!!! That must be a hell of a motor you have!!!!! and one BIG turbo!!!

Im willing to help you out but you do need to do your homework also. Its all on this site. spend some time searching the turbo forum. You will find all you need

I read the original thread and it looks like we might get some pics. The cage builder(the guy that build the guys cage) is going to get in contact with him.

Rebuilding the stock t3 is easy. The rotating assembly is balanced independently of the other piece. That means that the compressor wheel is balance by its self, and then the turbine wheel is balanced by itself. Then they are just bolted together. It is a good idea when taking them apart to just take a sharpie and mark them so there is no question.

John i would just like to thank you for your past couple threads regarding roll cage construction, and the wrecks that have brought alot of attention lately. I am no where near needing a full cage but these past few threads have opened my eyes to how crucial they are when you actually start racing. i raced motocross for 13years and did a bunch of track days on sport bikes and have even gone down at 120mph on an R6. So I always kind of thought of a steel box around me as good enough. Honestly I always thought of Roll cages as a little over kill but I dont any more. Its amazing how much more damage is created with the additon of the mass of a vehicle. On a side note i think its kinda childish that he doesnt want pictures of his car posted. Let people learn from how his cage was constructed so every one can be safer

The more i look at this swap I think I might do it when I get tired of the L6 or it blows up. Its between the 2jz-gte and this. I only want around 600hp and from some of the research that sounds very doable on this motor. Well time will tell

copy of what? wangan midnight? if so just dl them. they are on torrents.

I couldnt count either. And currently my car is running like crap but hopefully some magnecor plug wires that are on order will fix the problem. But for a good while before i wrecked my car it was running great. And i mean great. It was so much fun. completely dominated my friends modified twin turbo S4 that he has like 25k into. When i get down int he dumps this may be sad but i throw in wangan midnight. lol Gets my heart pumping, and gives me the drive to do some more work on the zed.

Id leave it for now but once its up and running with it cold take a pair of hemostats and pinch off the hose and see how long it takes to warm up. Then do the same for it open. I would imagine it has something to do with putting a bypass on the system so that it doesnt put a huge load on the water pump from it trying to push water where it cant go with the thermostat closed.

Hey your in my neighborhood. I just moved here but If you need help with the zeds let me know. Honestly if you want 200hp the cheapest way is probably going to be a turbo swap. And as for reliability, it doesnt get much more reliable than the L6 engine. Yes you can get 200hp N/A but it will take some head work and your going to need a flat top piston motor to start with. Write me a pm and we can talk maybe even get together sometime

Could just be so it warms up the engine quicker.

Im running a surge tank with the stock unbaffled tank

Hrrm didnt know this. Wonder how much it will help in the 1/4

why do you need the trigger wheel? why not just use the distributor?

Most spacers have one side that is taller to cover that.