jeffer949

I just took apart all my wiring on my car and did everything with twisting of all wires to sensors and such. My relay board is Under the drivers inspection panel is. I built my whole unit and ive had it out several times and all my solder joints look great. One thing i dont have is a condenser on the coil. How do i wire that up? Also when i had my alternator unplugged I noticed i didnt have one on there either. Not sure where it went. Im going to go take it for a test drive and see how it does. Ill let ya know.

Also the centerforce clutches dont hold up to well in turbo applications. Id stick with a ACT set up or maybe a Comp Clutch one

Going over that 400hp mark is when it starts getting expensive. The cast pistons are good for right around 400hp. So if your wanting to go for over 400 your basically looking at a full rebuild to do it correctly the pistons alone are around $500-$700. At the psi its going to take to get that much hp your gonna want a metal head gasket. Which are I think 150-250 depending on thickness. Plus all machine work and new bearings. Thats when it starts to add up.

Its not everything but its a start. I would go to the DIYautotune.com and Get these components. MS kit you want relay board Wiring bundle GM IAT sensor with pigtail relay board cable. Also get new injector connectors for when you make your wiring harness I think thats about all you need off the top of my head.

I have way less than 5k into my set up and im over 300hp. Id say more like 2k maybe.

Well I got my Magnecor's in today and installed.. And well lets just say i went for a ride and there was alot of cursing going on because its still Resetting. Im so lost on this car. I cant find anything wrong on the megasquirt. And i have to drive around with my laptop at all times so i can reload my firmware about once a day on average when im out driving it. Im this close to lighting a rag in the gas tank. I just dont know where else to look.

Thats freaking sweet!!1!

Just an update. My magnecor's arent here yet apparently they where out and had to order another set of them from magnecor or something IDK. I tried undoing my alternator to see if it was causing the 12v line to jump around and its not. It was still haveing resets all over the place. My question for everyone is how in the world can my voltage spike to 17 volts when im running just off my battery?? I mean Where is the other 5 volts coming from? Also a queston conserning the MOV1 Phil made a suggestion in seeing if it was unsoldered as his was apparently. So i checked it and it wasnt but i reflowed the joints just to be sure. But can these go bad and if so how do you test them to see if they are bad?

well that wasnt my problem Better luck to you phil. Also did you read if they can go bad or not?

If you run a felpro 1mm gasket your CR is 8.67:1

What wont bolt up to the s30? Most of the turbo guys are running s30's Me included. Whats so special about your car? The only thing that might have to be changed is the intercooler piping and the ehaust. Plus a few other changes.

Thats been my problem also. Ill check it out. Voltage spikes make my ecu reset and ya. not a smooth running car

If you do that phil make sure you put your pw at 100%

id say your in the the ballpark phil

Im...............................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................................Unemployed..... ya i need a job lol. But to pull my weight around I take care of my nieces during the day. 18m/o and a 4week old. Lots of fun.

Been more than 5 min phil!!!! Hey phil what plug wires are you running?

Here at hybridz we are not fans of spoon feeding members. We want you to search and find the info for yourself. You will be happy you did as it will actually help you remember the info you need cause it wasnt spoon feed to ya.

Go check the map sharing thread. I deleted all my files from when i was running low Z injectors. one of the threads says 1.0 .10 45 1.0 that was for stock zxt inj.

Its under the engine constraints right under the required fuel. At least on msns extra it is.

What board do you have 2.2 or 3.0? the 3.0 has a active flyback circuit to where you dont need the resistor pack.

I need to get mine done. When i was in my wreck a few months ago I was sure it was gonna be totaled and I was going to have to buy it back. The guy said the value of my car was somewhere around 10k I was like WHAT??? That was with out even opening the hood. Its nice to see that insurance companies are saying they are worth more but I dont think I could of sold my car for that much back then. Maybe now with the new paint and wheels. Not with the rustoleum paint job. I need to get my appraised but i need to get a job and a place to keep her first cause i figure my payment will go up some cause i moved.

I remember that subject also. If i recall correctly it was brian(1 fast Z) that was the person who did alot of the testing. I would contact him as he is a BIG believer of the f54 blocks being junk. His L31DETT engine is on a n-42 block.

I have to say that im really liking the idea of the efi fuel pump on the carbs. Would explain why it runs ok for a bit and then if you turn it off and try to start it back up it starts making noise. What is he using to check to see what the fuel pressure is?

So why not take the gas tank out and SEE if it is dirty or not? its not that hard.

Lol thats all i have to say about that. Have fun trying to jimmy rig it together. Oh btw an EXPERT as you put it would tell you to do it correctly with an aftermarket ECU.