jeffer949

Yes that is what its for. Try taking a scrap piece of steel and start putting down a one handed bead. doesnt have to be pretty. With the other hand start tunning down the nob to the 7 it should lighten up and allow you to see more. You want to be protected as much as possible but you still need to see what your doing. Once i changed the lenses on my helmet it allowed me to actually see what the moltent metal was doing and i practiced pulling the pool of metal along my welds went to about the capacity of my crappy 150 buck welder.

If you got a generic helmet from lowes or something that isnt adjustable. It more than likely came with a 10 rated lens. In my opinion i changed out my 10 for a 9 or 8 IIRC and it made a huge difference in my welding. Being able to see what your doing made a huge difference in my welding.

ding ding ding. You are the winner. You have to take that off. Im surprised you got it together with it on there. where you able to use the origonal flywheel bolts?

Does your welder have just a high/low for the power and then a dial for the feed? thats what mine has and i run into the problem on welding sheet metal. Low is almost to cold but high is so hot that it burns right through. I would try two things. 1. Make sure you dont have a fan blowing on you or your weld. I was doing this when i first started and had no clue that it was basicaly blowing the flux core gas away and it was being unprotected and was splattering like crazy. 2. Slow down and make sure your getting a pool of metal and then pull that pool along if your trying to carry a bead. I would also maybe trying to just stich weld it in place. I would grind that down if your going to try to reweld it. Your going to at least have to wire wheel it to get all the flux off. I find that using little circles works well with the flux core welders. While the zig/zag works well with a true MIG

Ok i got one of those filters. I first tried it on the constant power. No difference on my battery voltage. It was still jumping around. Then i tried it on the switched power and it was the same. Im really thinking i need a new alternator. If i wasnt broke i would buy both the magnecor's and the alternator. but im broke so ya. What makes me think its the alternator is the spikes in the voltage. I can see emi causing the resets when the voltage goes really low but not with the spikes Idk maybe im wrong. .

LOL. My sister had to come in from the other room to see why i was laughing so hard after i read that! Rick if your turning 62 I hope Im as young of a old geezer as you when im 62, and I pray i have half the knowledge of turbo and efi systems as you do by then. congrats again.

Uh-Oh!!! An admin just double posted!!!! ban ban ban ban. lol jk Congrats grumpyvette

Oh ya did you put them on the switched power or the constant power or both?

Just cause its a jap doesnt mean he shouldnt rock the mullet!!

please tell me the driver rocks a mullet!!!

Happy birthday Rick. And yes All the good people where born this month!!! 5 more days till the big TWO SIX lol

Well i changed my plugs today and it didnt help really. Turns out i DID have BPR8ES's in there. But i got a set of BR8ES from the parts store cause thats all they had in the 8 range. Are the noise filters The inline filters or are they the clamp on filters that you see on computer cables alot? cause i saw some inline ones at advancedauto that where 10 bucks but im not sure if those are what your talking about.

Well I'm back in Nashville where the little "tempermental bitch" has been awaiting my return from the 1600 mile trip in the ultra cush minivan. So I'll be trying to get some new plugs tomorrow for her. What plugs do you guys recomend for my setup running from 15psi to 20psi. Is a 8 to cold for a daily driver? Also where do you get the magnecor wires? and do they make a kit for the L6?

lol no just a base clear

lol yeah right. i wish. I can barely keep my ONE together and running

your in daytona? Hit me up.

I know my Power wires are good. They are soldered in place. Ill try the noise filters on the constant power wire and the switched power wire. Do i get those at radio shack? Also I have NGK plug wires and i have B8ES plugs in the car i believe. Ill try to get some BR8ES plugs also. and see if that helps.

Thats not what i know it as. but i dont think so.

You just have to use a good adhesion promotor. I used a dupont product called plas-stick it hasnt peeled yet and its been flexed a lot already

The mechanical fuel pumps that came stock on our cars when they where carbed was directly over the alternator......

i was thinking if it was a holset i could give you a site for where to get one. But honestly ive ordered 3 different 4" v-bands and they have all been different sizes.

My car doesnt have anything that isnt essential. Radio doesnt work and no ac and no aftermarket lights. My fuel pump wiring is a wire from the relay board directly to the pump and then a wire to ground. But my fuel pump is in the engine bay next to the alternator. My car is in nashville right now and im in Florida so i wont be able to work on it till wed. or so. Keep the ideas coming. As i really dont have money to start throwing parts at her right now.

Read again. Not what motor. What turbo. Is it a holset?

anybody?

What turbo is it for?