jeffer949

yeah i know the symptoms i read one of your posts while searching. and it was out. i was able to take out the push rod with the seal and its nto in there and i can see it bouncing around. now to just get the dang thing back in place.. thanks a lot

hrmm was it tough.... well this was the first time i had ever done any body work but im the type of guy that will dive into almost anything and after i put enough sweat blood and tears into it it comes out ok(yes i had all 3 of these on this project, it was hot out, and i cut my self on some sheet metal and i guess i cried a little bit about it lol yah yah im a cry baby i know lol) but basically take your time making your patches for the indents on the sides and then just start tacking them in place and then a thin coat of body filler over every thing and then SAND SAND SAND SAND oh did i mention sand? till it looks the way you want. and if you sand to much add more filler and keep going.. good luck there is some better write ups on here on how to do it though

ok ive been having some problems with my brakes and through searching have learned about the reaction disk coming out. so i took off my brake booster to check it out Then i realized i didnt know what to check for. some one said something about it rattling around would this be like a washer rattling around in the booster or more of a faint rattle... Also does anybody have the messurement for length the 2 shafts going though the booster is supposed to be? cause it would be shorter if the reaction disk had fallen out correct?? Last but not least what is the best way to take it apart if the disk has come out with out the special tool that is in the FSM? i tried a pry bar and a large screw driver but i dont think i was getting enough force by myself.. any help would be appriciated thanks Jeff

j30?

ok was at the junk yard today and saw a 240sx with the hicas rear wheel steering. and did a little bit of research and found that it could possibly have a lsd in it.. is this correct or am i wrong? Any body have any insight on this? because i would love to put a lsd in my car. thanks jeff

honestly thats like probably 8-9 coats with wet sanding between every 2-3 coats and then i wetsanded with 1000 grit and then put 2 final coats on. i was just tired of wetsanding and it was zfest here in daytona and i just threw my car back together so i had it that week.(i also shaved the sidemarkers and the rear end at the same time) and thats my own color i made. i think its like 3quarts royal blue to 1quart black or something like that.

here is a few pics of my car that i said i would post some pics but i never did so here ya go. these are actually of me being lazy and not doing my final wet sand and buff this was just how i rolled it on..

yeah ive pulled many pistons that looked like that out of my old race 125 two strokes. can we say detonation?? lol. i had one that actually had a hole worn into the center right below the piston. then i guess ive also had the pistion come out in chuncks also

here is my 74 that i did a few months ago. also shaved the complete rear end and bumper indents

what about the steering shaft binding for a second? or more precisely the u-joint thing. i know ive had swivels for a ratchet get worn out and then they would bind up and wouldnt turn.... just a thought.. but glad your safe... and dont you think its time for a subaru forester rack and convert to power steering??? lol i think thats a great "while im at it"

felt doesnt work that well if you have complex curves cause it doesnt like to bend as much ive used it and had to cut and splice it and didnt work out that great

peroxide while its good at cleaning the wound it is actually not that good for the heeling process it actually helps make keloids(abnormal scar tissue) and can make you have some pretty bad scars.. i have tons of them i have more scars than anybody i know from years of racing motocross. and just being a onry kid growing up

2 of the biggest helps ive found in getting the tranny to slip in would be the spare yoke to turn the input shaft and then make sure you have the engine on the same plane as the tranny. i use the jack that comes with the Z and a block of wood and if it doesnt go in i can raise or lower the rear of the tranny till it slides in.

and he had alot more room to work with because of his crossflow head and the fact that his car was RHD

i have it on my l28et and it holds great and pedal feel isnt that heavy at all..

in in the same boat. i blew mine out slightly on the number 4 cylinder when my throttle got stuck wide open in 3nd gear going over a bridge... wasnt fun....

when you jumping on that flight bubbles??

my friend has an 01 tiburon and he is kinda into tuning it. he says that there are lots of guys that are turboing them are getting 400hp at the wheels with stock internals.

one thing to notice.. did you guys see the spark plugs where out??? i wonder for how long they have been out. cause thats just letting moisture in to rust the cylinders.. lol forest you beat it to me if i hadnt gone for the picture i think i would of won lol

one thing is for sure... i dont think a v-8 is an option lol would your rotary fit though? if so i say go for it and make that a really nice dd and you know you would probably be the only one in town to have one. which to me is a plus

brian i wasnt saying you where wrong... i agree with you and i know you have to match everything. i know its a complete assembly that every part has to work together.. its just the way you come across (at least to me). i would just maybe point the guy in the right direction than just stamping his engine build with big "WRONG" and toss it to they side. why not direct him in the right direction so he can maybe get the best possible head with those pistons?? what head would you put with those pistons??

and here comes brian with another comment that just really doesnt help and just tries to make any engine builder besides him incompetent. not saying your wrong just saying its unnecessary without any input to his problem or actually helping him

actually try taking a pencil butane torch and heat up around the threads and then go at it..

oil is no substitution for moly past. it allows you to get the proper toque by taking away the friction between the nut and the stud. if you dont have the arp stuff you should be able to find it at a parts store. i know any decent motorcycle shop should have it in stock..

did you not see that twin cam l-series head????