jeffer949

ok how do i change that? or find out what is on my ecu??

but i have it set for the MS1 original BG code and isnt that what the 68HC908 processor comes flashed with??? and it also does it even if i dont have the board connected to the serial cable... make sense??

ok im getting an error message when i start megatune after i select which code to use which at the moment is just ms1 no msns yet(just assembled it) and then this error message comes up before it opens. any body have any ideas??? also it comes up regardless to weather or not i have my ms connected through the serial cable with the stim on or not

i thought that the cas plug was the same for the 81 to the 82-83 dizzy??

hey austin where did your gf get those dvd's and the book???

i say get another one... and keep the current also. 2 Z's is always better than one right?? i mean take out the j in 2jz and what do you have??? 2 Z's i think its meant to be!!!!

i got MS1 V3.0 unassembled kit, unassembled stim board. assembled relay board, diyautotunes engine harnes, GM open iat sensor with pigtail. and a LC-1 wide band meter. and i also got a set o door handle cover things that go inside the handle and are plastic. i cant complain thats all i know. i allready have the stim board assembled and im going to go get started on the main board here in a min.

merry christmas eery one!!!! just got done opening some presents and i just got MEGASQUIRT!!!!!!

do you have anything to back this statement up other than obx is junk???

going through daytona??

yeah i have the starion one and while it works im going to upgrade... wanna buy mine??? lol

ive done the same thing. i actually got mine bent decently correctly but then when i went to take them off to paint my car they just got all bent to hell. so do your self a favor and just buy the squeegee part and just get some weather strip adhesive and just glue them on. mine have been on that way for a good 4 months and are fine.

ive been curious about this also. is the 280zx power steering pump up to the task of running the Subaru power steering rack??? if so then i need to look for a Subaru rack..

isnt his car dropped lower than 1 inch?? cause i dropped mine 2 inches on my 74 and its not as low as his

im in daytona beach and am going home to kansas which also got hit by the ice storm for christmas. dang i hope its gone by then lol i called my mom and told her it was 80 out today and i was in shorts and a t-shirt she didnt think it was too funny

i bought the cheap RS type blow off valve and it worked but i noticed i had a slight vacume leak. so i took it apart and found out that the o-ring wasnt thick enough to seal so i just put slightly bigger one in and it works great

there should be bolts that hold the flex plate to the converter i think 4 of them maybe 5 just take off the bottom access panel and take them off you will have to spin the motor to do so.

aww my good old home state.. i love the long streaches of road. lets just say i maxxed out every vehicel i ever owned untill i moved. my dad would get so pissed when i would tell him how fast i got his car or motorcycle up to... then i would just rememind him of the stories he told me of how fast he went on his dads cars when he was my age lol

i know on bikes its been done both ways.. either picture a rocker arm that has one follower on the cam and then splits into a Y after the pivotand pushes on 2 valves and then the cam is inbetween the intake and exhaust valves so one side has the exhaust and one side has the intake with 2 y shaped rocker arms. if you ever run into this set up and are adjusting valves you have to have 2 sets of feeler gauges so you can measure the clearances of both rocker arms at the same time as to not cock the rocker arm up on one side.

lots of inline 4 motorcycles are that way.

allright got it back in place and everything bolted up. and it fixed the problem thanks

yeah i know the symptoms i read one of your posts while searching. and it was out. i was able to take out the push rod with the seal and its nto in there and i can see it bouncing around. now to just get the dang thing back in place.. thanks a lot

hrmm was it tough.... well this was the first time i had ever done any body work but im the type of guy that will dive into almost anything and after i put enough sweat blood and tears into it it comes out ok(yes i had all 3 of these on this project, it was hot out, and i cut my self on some sheet metal and i guess i cried a little bit about it lol yah yah im a cry baby i know lol) but basically take your time making your patches for the indents on the sides and then just start tacking them in place and then a thin coat of body filler over every thing and then SAND SAND SAND SAND oh did i mention sand? till it looks the way you want. and if you sand to much add more filler and keep going.. good luck there is some better write ups on here on how to do it though

ok ive been having some problems with my brakes and through searching have learned about the reaction disk coming out. so i took off my brake booster to check it out Then i realized i didnt know what to check for. some one said something about it rattling around would this be like a washer rattling around in the booster or more of a faint rattle... Also does anybody have the messurement for length the 2 shafts going though the booster is supposed to be? cause it would be shorter if the reaction disk had fallen out correct?? Last but not least what is the best way to take it apart if the disk has come out with out the special tool that is in the FSM? i tried a pry bar and a large screw driver but i dont think i was getting enough force by myself.. any help would be appriciated thanks Jeff

j30?