z-ya

My old Simplicity 10HP tractor's (the old girl)) internal magneto finally let go. So with an impending winter storm, I decided to do my thing for the environment, and do a little recycling of old 240Z parts. Still no power at my house since last Thursday from the ice storm. Getting my moneys worth out of that generator I bought 10 years ago. Got 12" last night, expecting another 12" tomorrow. Welcome to winter in New Hampshire... Pete

I've decided to put this setup on the road racer this winter. I'll be posting updates. So far, it looks they will work out well. Pete

Austin, Very nice work indeed. Maybe I missed it in your thread, but what are you using for the throttle by wire as pedal. the stock 350Z pedal? I've used these connectors with pigtails from Allelectronics: 2 pin: 3 pin: 4 pin: 6 pin: 9 pin: Not weather tight, but good quality. Short money, and they are already assembled. Just cut in the middle and splice. allelectronics.com Pete

10MS/s is a pretty low sampling rate. The ecffective bandwidth of that scope is probably around 2.5MHz. Usable bandwidth is probably around 1MHz. Good for automotive stuff, and most Megasquirt work (except checking the CPU clock). Moby, that HP scope is more than adequate, and HP is high quality stuff. They can be non-intuitive to use (as compared to Tek), but once you figure it out, you will be good to go. I had to turn in all of my demo scopes after I left my job at Lecroy. Now I use (freebie): http://www.softdsp.com/product/sds200a_01.htm Pete

I like the AEM UEGO gauge. You get a gauge, and an analog output you can use with Megasquirt and other EMS. Uses cheap Bosch sensors (comes with one). Great product. http://www.aempower.com/ViewCategory.aspx?CategoryID=70 Pete

Actually the L28 resistor pack is made from a x4 and a x2 resistor pack bolted together (at least the ones I've used). Pete

I just got one from Nismoparts, he may have more. The pickup is on back order, so I took the matter into my own hands: I thought of cutting the pan, rotating it and welding it back, but the angle is reversed, so the engine could not sit at the correct angle. I may know where a pan is. It has had the windage tray cut up a bit, but it is usable.

Looks like you have the buy the whole flange from Nissan: http://carfiche.com/fiche009/s30/5/h03.gif

Do you mean something like this? http://www.datsunzparts.com/NewParts/summary.htm As far as bracing, as long as you have the rear suspension, transmission, and front cross members in place, flexing shouldn't be a concern. If you are concerned, just do one side at a time with all three cross members in place. Pete

I would use the DSM ones with a Palnet fuel rail. The Benz injectors are not all that responsive at short opening times, and the connector is not a standard injector connector. Pete

Here is a good place to start (compliments of a Google search)... http://users.erols.com/srweiss/tableifc.htm

Who, me?

This is very cool Ron. Yes, one of the Wolf system limitations was the ability to trigger from coil "-" terminal. This is great that they added this ability. Next would be an adapter harness for the L28ET, where you can also use the V500 to control timing. Pete

Don't forget to add custom headers, driveshaft, ECU upgrade (not sure what the stock truck ECU can compensate for), injector upgrade (Stock ones might be good for 400HP), EFI fuel pump, surge tank, etc., etc. Maybe put the L6 back in there just to have some fun with it next year while you are collecting V8 parts. I don't know about you, but after reading all of the threads about this project I'm dying to drive it! I can't imagine how you feel just looking at it in your garage! I can't go more than a few months without a track day, time trial, or autocross without going stir crazy (although GTR2 has been helping in that area this winter ).

--- Begin my 0.02 ---- This seems like a lot of hacking, cutting, and expense for what, 300HP? I love the 5.3 (got one in my truck), but wouldn't it be easier to just run the nicely prepped L6 you have, and see how well she does? HP is not a huge factor in autocross, chassis and driver are. Now if you run long and fast courses, then the HP might be a more significant factor. ---- End my 0.02 ---- Jon, what about a T5, can you find a bell housing to mate a T5 to the 5.3?

No, they are similar, but not the same. The ratios are different. The NA ZX transmission is more desirable because of a closer ration between 2nd and 3rd. The shifter is slightly different also. You don't need to take it apart to put the short throw kit in. It looks liek the MSA kit is for only 280Z 5speed: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PRC02A You might want to call them.

Motorsport Auto sells a short throw kit for the 280Z 5speed. IMO, the Nissan transmissions shift better, and are more reliable than the T5 or T56 for that matter. Drive a T56 Camaro, and then drive a 350Z. Tell me what feels better.

The T5 is not a very good transmission. T5s have a very notchy feeling. The Datsun 5 speeds shift much smoother, and to be honest, are more reliable than the T5. Get teh short shift kit for your Datsun 5speed and be done with it.

Jon is right, check your ring and pinion. Your CLSD is probably fine, but the R&P are probably toast. If the CV axle is too long to allow full suspension travel, it will beat the ring gear into the pinion on every bump. This is what happened to Gnosez's 3.9:1 R&P after less than 100 miles. Pete

What I did is convert the block vent to a -8AN fitting, then I used a right angle -8AN swivel fitting to wrap the vent hose around the front of the engine to the catch can mounted on the passenger fender. The valve cover vents into the catch can through a -6AN fitting. The catch can has a drain on the bottom, and a large K&N type filter on the top. Has worked well for many miles on the race track. This is kind of an old picture. The car has a stainless steel catch can now (plastic ones are cheap, and not all that strong).

Sorry to hear that you have to sell it. It's a beauty for sure. Pete

Clive, You also need a GM coolant (CLT) sensor. Also, you shouldn't need to weld a bung in unless you put the IAT sensor upstream of the TB in your IC plumbing. You can drill and tap the thermostat housing and intake manifold to 3/8" NPT thread and be done with it. You will also need 3 relays (Main power, fuel pump, cooling fan). Also, I like to use a separate fuse panel for MS. This one gives you 4 circuits for $9: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRF-30002&N=700+4294843320+115&autoview=sku You can also buy a relay board which does all of this for you. Pete

Daeron, nice detailed write up.... (OK, I was a little lazy). Even with adjustments to the coolant sensor resistance and or AFM tweaking, the chance of getting a flat AFR across all RPMs and loads is not likely. You will most likely end up with areas in the power band that are too lean or too rich, with no way of tuning them out. This is where a programmable ECU comes into play. In either case, you need a WBO2 and or dyno time. Pete

You need to look at the NA and turbo harness schematic and figure out the differences related to that plug. Then make the correct changes. I know reading those factory schematics really sucks, but that is how I would do it. Not many people are going to be able to answer your question off the top of their heads. Pete

The stock ECU is not all that intelligent. It will not automatically compensate for modifications to intake/exhaust etc. You need to screw with the AFM and the coolant sensor resistance to compensate for modifications. Pete