Pop N Wood

I wouldn't lend too much credibility to internet chatter about the safety of roll bars on street cars. When it comes to safety devices people, including ones on this site, tend to state unsubtantiated opinion as established fact. I don't think anyone really knows whether a roll bar makes a street Z safer or not. Also keep in mind the overwhelming majority of fatal car accidents involve a single vehicle. So the SUV mom on the cell phone isn't the one you should be worried about. The person you should be worried about will be the one looking back at you when you look in the mirror.

I just put my Z car on my standard Geico account. They probably won't like you being 22 and all. I want to drive the car with no restrictions. All the specialty insurance places seem to have restrictions, like you can't drive it to work etc. I only have liability. I consider the risks of this to be minor. In my life I have had very few accidents that were my fault. I don’t see why the Z would be an exception. Full coverage or a stated value policy on a car this old and worth as little as our Z cars is a bit of a waste of money for the reasons stated above. Anytime you do something out of the ordinary you are asking for headaches from the standard insurance company bureaucracy. If something is a matter of interpretation you risk having them interpret it in whatever way will save them a dollar. In all honesty if I had such a policy I would stress more about being screwed by the insurance company than I ever would about wrecking my car or having it stolen. 10 or 15 thousand dollars isn’t chump change, but it isn’t worth a lifetime of self wrath seething about getting screwed by an insurance company.

My 240 had a vacuum switch on the port inner fender that vented the tank to the air cleaner when the engine was running or the crankcase with the engine off. I recently cut the vent and will leave it open back by the fuel pump. Not sure how well this will work cause my car isn't running right now. You may want to be careful about plugging vent lines. There have been posts claiming that plugging the vents prevents you from more than half filling the tank. Maybe you can get by with only one of the vents, I don't know. I do know you HAVE to use vent hoses designed for fuel. Heater hoses will disintegrate in short order. When I first got my Z 19 years ago I went into a Nissan dealer and started to ask the part guy about the gas smell in my car when I turned. He walked away from me without saying a word while I was in mid sentence. Before I could figure out what was going on he came back and slamed the vent hoses on the counter and said "$150". Guess the problem was so common he had the fix memorized. He was the one who told me heater hoses will not work.

My 240 tank has 3 vents and the fill tube has 1. They all go tothe same place: a plastic vent tank in the passenger side C pillar. That thing is vented to the engine bay. I don't think there is an in or an out. The vents all work together to let air move from one side of the main tank to the other.

Maybe there are no V8 Z's in Japan because 1) there are no american V8's in Japan and 2) the same reason we get low mile turbo motors from Japan:: their smog laws won't allow it

Your tank has to have a vent of some type. What I was suggesting is to look at your field service manual and see if any vent lines run through the passenger's compartment. If they do, check to see if they need to be replaced. This includes the fill tube. "under boost" tells me hard acceleration. Maybe fuel is sloshing around and leaking out of a bad vent hose or from the fill tube. I can't tell you what type of vents a Skyline has cause I have never seen one. But I can tell you Nissan wasn't opposed to running fuel lines through the cabin, so maybe they did it on your car too.

I know they go crazy over Harleys. I'll bet they would get the same reaction out of American V8's

You guys are all too uptown. I've definitely hit worse....

Fluorescent work lights don't false trigger the autodarkening lens. They also seem to put out a spectrum of light that isn't filtered by the welding lens making it much easier to see even during the weld. I had the same problem when I used halogen work lights. And I did modifiy my HF helmet to drap a cloth over the back to keep from getting blinded by the back light. but now I just put the fluorescent drop light right next to the weld.

Go to summit racing and see if Energy Suspension makes a urethane unit for cheby mounts (most likely yes). they aren't too expensive, and the energy suspension parts have a captive metal interlock that prevents the mount from coming undone should the rubber fail.

Save the money you would have spent geting John to recalibrate your tach and use it to buy the Datsun Z V-8 Conversion Manual For $33.95 the manual will not only tell you how easy it is to "recalibrate your tach" (i.e. turn one screw from one stop to the next), but will tell you exactly what you need to do with your wiring and how you get all the sensors to work. When you are done you can easily sell it for $20.

Why can't you just insert the back of the driveshaft up over the sway bar before you put the front yoke on the trans? Installing the shaft should be the least of your worries. Having it come off while driving because it is too short will create a lot more work than dropping your sway bar. Just a thought

Installing a set of Bad Dog subframe connectors will give you some added protection and give you a convenient place to attach your skid plate.

I think two males and one double ended female is illegal in Georgia also.

Did you take 6-8 hours like John said, or something less than the 6-8 days it might take a doofus like me? This might be my one "while I'm at it" with this project since I have the interior stripped and the majority of the sound deadening crap gone.

240's run fuel vent lines through the back of the passenger's compartment to a vent tank that is behind an interior body panel. When those hoses go bad, all it takes is a few hard turns or acceleration to fill the interior with raw gas smell. I don't know if something similar could be happening with your skyline. Why not reconnect the vent line to the charcoal cannister and see what happens? That won't cost you any performance.

A lot of turbo guys use these. do a search on ls1tech.com if you want real world testimonials. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MOR%2D25900&N=700+400105+115&autoview=sku

I chased a coolant leak on my 240 for years. Finally someone told me the head gaskets tend to "weep". So I dumped a tube of green food coloring into the radiator, surrounded the head gasket with clean white paper towels and started the engine. I then put some cardboard in front of the radiator to get the idling car to heat up and pressurize. sure enough the paper towels at the back of the head turned green. Since it was just venting steam I didn't have any water trails cause it would vaporize and condense in the air. just dump a tube of stop leak in the radiator. That is what fixed mine. The sucking sound is air going back into the radiator after the coolant has cooled down and condensed.

I had a buddy in a 5.0 get pulled over by a cop in a 5.0 The first thing the cop said to him was "These cars are fast, aren't they?"

I have no idea how you would tell what gaps were due to body sag and what was due to the floor metal being bent. I don't know about you but at one point I used a 5 pound hammer and a block of wood to straighten my stock 240 "sub frame rails" from where I tried to use a floor jack at an autocross. On the plus side by the time I got done hammering the floor all of the interior sound deadener had flaked off in big chunks. I would think Jon's sheet metal screws would be the ticket. When you are done welding the edges of the flange, you can pull the screws and plug weld the holes.

Whoo man, I don't know. I guess if I were you my next step would be to hook a hand held voltmeter across the wires right at the inlet to the pump and run the lines into the passengers compartment. If you still have over 12 volts across the pump inlet when it happens, then you have ruled out all electrical problems. How do you know it stops turning? Put your hand on it and not feel any vibration? I guess one other possible solution is to always stay on the gas

Then why not stick to a tried and true SBC swap? Northstars themselves are suppose to be expensive to work on. I think someone once posted a set of rings run $500. BTW, from that link it looks like $670 is for the flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing. The bellhousing is $375 on top of that.

So I guess you are saying the pumps stop pumping (i.e. no fuel flow), but don't stop running? Cause if they stop turning there is your problem. I don't think it is too small of a pickup tube. Even the stock fuel system should provide enough fuel for 70 MPH cruising. That should be true no matter how juiced your engine is. Or by "on the highway" do you mean flat out as fast as you can go? If the lines were too small you might stall at wide open throttle, but the pump should catch back up when you go back to an idle (or restart). How long do you have to wait before the engine runs again? Also is your fuel filter on the inlet or outlet side of the pump? One thing, you want to mount the pump as LOW as you can, not high. You also want the suction side of the pump to have as few restrictions as possible. Pumps are better at pushing fuel than sucking it. But even with that you are suppose to have a filter on the suction side to keep stuff from clogging the pump. You might want to pull your pump apart and check for debris. Pumps usually have some type of inlet screen. Maybe there is something there cutting down the fuel flow. Also cut open your fuel filter and check for crap, especially if it is on the inlet side of the pump.

My neighbor decided to power wash the inside of his Chevy work truck in the middle of our cul de sac. We then had to use leaf blowers and manually disconnect and dry out each and every electrical connectors under his dash before the truck would start again. I can't believe how complicated the electrical systems have gotten on new vehicles.

Sounds like the fuel volume is low for some reason. You hit all the usual suspects. Could be a failing pump too. Your post confuses me a bit. I guess you were running a Welborn pump with a bypass regulator and had this problem. You are now running with a Holley pump and still having this problem? You say the "pump still stalled out". Do you mean you know the pump is no longer turning or just that the car quit running due to the lack of fuel? Did the car ever run right? Or is this just something that has happened since you changed your setup?