Pop N Wood

But from http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=117151&highlight=finite+element Seems like you guys have different opinions on the subject.

Man. I can't believe you didn't get hundreds and hundreds of responses from all those people with RB powered Z cars....

All you need to do is swap in an american V8 and you will be on JEG's preferred mailing list like me. They sell crate motors. I tried to order from them because they sponsered a Jessie James build in Iraq. Gotta support the companies that support the troops.

You need to do a search. There is a lot of info on this in the archives.

You could easily hammer that out yourself and weld in a new plate for strength. Mine were pretty wavy in that area, although no where near the divot you have.

there is always a solution to every problem.

Wanna buy one of the first 100 Z cars? Then go to http://zhome.com/. They have a list of known owners of early Z cars. According to that site, only 31 of the first 100 have been accounted for, so you may get lucky and find one no one knows about. Personally I would rather have one I can modify and drive.

I absolutely disagree with that statement. Look at the differences in the steering rack mounts on the early to late Z cars. I have read posts warning mounts. This wasn't 5 mph bumper related. This was a deficiency of the early design.

Guess this is suppose to be commercial that debuts at the Super Bowl. Federline has had to issue a public appology in case any fast food workers feel insulted by the commercial. Funny world.

You might be able to weld a new stud on the old mount. But you will undoubtably burn and further weaken the rubber on the other side. Another possiblity is to rethread the stud using the next smaller sized die. Those parts are throw away items. Maybe time to invest in a new one. Or ask around and see if someone made an extra Ron Tyler style mount they will sell you. Should just bolt in and will be the last diff mount you will ever have to buy.

Pretty bike. I would sure hate to lay that thing down with all those dagger shaped foot pegs.

18 guage is hard enough to work with. 16 guage would be a nightmare. Rather than thicker metal you are much better off rolling some beads into thinner metal. If you are using flat sheet metal for the floor then you can't be too worried about stiffness. Anybody can make something stronger. The trick is to make is stronger without adding excess weight. From what everyone has said, Pete's connectors with stock floor pans are very stiff. Maybe more than is really needed.

If you can pull the pan then you should be able to measure the stroke.

The number of 240's made is very small compared to the number of 280's. The ones that are left are getting harder and harder to find for sale. It won't be too much longer before this is no longer a question anyone needs to ask. There have been a number of times I wished I had started my hybrid conversion with a 280 rather than my 70 240. It is supprising how much beefier the 280's are than the 240's. After having worked on my 240 for almost 20 years now, I was suprised the first time I pulled parts off a 280. The most obvious thing is the rails underneath the floor pans. The 240's had to run the brake and fuel lines through the tunnel cause the 240 rails would have given them absolutely zero protection. The rest of the differences are hard to notice unless you are familiar with both models. Some of the key differences I have noticed are the stronger steering rack mounts, thicker strut tubes, stronger stub axles, significantly stronger diff cross member, a revised front diff top strap, relocated diff geometry, thicker steel in the rear control arms, much stronger door latches, stronger trans mount ears. Then there is god only knows how much more sheet metal bracing throughout the later cars. You have to figure Datsun changed all of these things to address some perceived deficency in the original 240. Most of them appear safety related. Then there are other little things that make a V8 swap different between the two models. Most noticeable is the FI tank vs. carb'd 240 tank. I have recently found out the shifter opening on the early 240's is farther back than all later models. 240's have ampmeters, everything else has voltmeters. The 240 tach is not compatible with modern ignitions. Little things, but stuff that has to be addressed.

There are a lot of windy roads in Chicago.

There is nothing to be offended about. I chose to copy Mark Ickards mounts because it looked like they would give me the most flexibility in mounting the motor. They were never indended as anything structural. As for weight, I keep wondering if I made it heavy enough. Will be interesting to see what your header and starter clearances turn out to be. I think the passenger's side exhaust flange will end up pointing right at that cross piece. I know my starter is sitting not a half inch from the TC cup. If you mount your motor higher and a little farther forward then mine you might be able to run the exhaust next to the rail and under that cross piece. Hard to tell without looking at it in real life though. Mine is so far back I am moving the heater hose penetrations.

Sorry. Serious thread hyjack here. I had to fab my own mounts for all the reasons I stated above. JCI's kit definitely would not have worked with my trans choice. It may work with the carb intake. There was one other guy, screen name Lason I believe, who was doing an LS1 swap with JCI's mounts and a carb intake. He was also doing a back half. Not sure where he ended up. There are a few gotcha's on the LS motors. In particular the water temp sensor. All SBC's since the begining of time have used either a 1/2 NPT or 3/8 inch threaded sensor. The LS motors use a metric fitting that is smaller than the 3/8 NPT. The aftermarket has yet to catch up to this. I had to drill out the block heater plug and tap the Datsun sender into that. If I had gone aftermarket guages then maybe there is something that works with the LS heads. Fan controller is in the same catagory. Had to use a radiator probe. I would say the other complication on LS swaps is the shortage of donor vehicles. V8 F bodies were never that popular in the first place and they sure aren't getting anymore common. The GTO-LS2 stuff comes with it's own set of headaches. Truck motors need new intakes and accessories. 10 MPG on the carb, I hope not. There was a recent thread someone posted on the AZC carb set up vs. his Megasquirt L6. Mileage was the same for both. On the LS motors, from what I have seen, the carb shouldn't be too far behind the FI. I don't know how to tune a carb either. At least not a hipo carb. But only one way to learn. They still publish books on this sort of thing. I will install some type of O2 sensor to help. Nah, tuning the carb is something I look forward to. That will mean I have the car running and on the road. I have two sets of old rear tires to help with the procedure Get to do the fuel system this week end.

The intake sits taller, so you need to get the motor lower. That means the alternator hits the steering knuckle, so need to figure something else out. But that was OK cause the motor had Corvette accessories and couldn't really use a stock F body alternator mount anyway. Then of course with the shorter trans, you need to get the motor as far back as possible. This means a 14 inch air cleaner hits the hood latch requiring that to be moved. No, the big deal is just in not being able to use a kit where you know everything will fit the first time out.

Yeah I agree. Don't get so caught up in all the computer diagnosis and sensor stuff that you forget to take care of basic automotive mechanics. Vacuum leaks, dirty air filters, clogged fuel filter, loose connectors, old plugs. Check the basics first.

JTR sells stuff for an LS1 swap, but they don't sell a mount kit and they don't have a manual for it. 75% of the old manual is still directly applicable to the LS motors, but there are some major LS specific differences that aren't covered by the old manual. There are people who have done LS swaps in less than a week using JCI's kit. I would think the two swaps are at about the same level of difficulty. That is unless you get cute and decided to use a carb'd LS motor and a non-T56 trans. Then you have to solve all your own problems.

Well you probably don't want to here this but I would have tried to tie the K frame back into the frame rails and not the TC cups. A suggestion for you. When I clad my frame rails with 18 guage sheet, I cut long slots through the new metal so I could weld the center part of the new steel and not just the outer edge. Pretty easy to do and grind down smooth. It makes everything like it is one solid piece instead of two layered pieces. I am not sure what engine you are putting in or why you need a K frame, but here is an early pic of my unfinished LS motor cross member I have since welded some gussets between the sides and the motor mount brackets. I also double layered the whole frame rail from the TC cups to in front of the stock crossmember. I then welded in pieces of pipe through the frame rail to make bolt holes to secure the cross member. My header on the passengers side comes out just behind the motor mount on my cross member. In fact, you can see the left and right sides point in opposite directions. That is because I had to move the passenger's side mount forward an inch just to get clearance for the JTR LS headers.

A grinder usually eats right through that stuff.

Man that sucks. You had just gotten that car, and I remember the hassle you had trying to get insurance in the first place. Hard to believe they expect you to keep up the insurance premium when you don't have a car. The bank is another matter. I can tell you first hand that working insurance across state lines can be a nightmare. States all have different laws.

Do you also want someone to come by and hold you hand while you remove the numbered, circled items?

LOL. Can't say I like the angles on some of the body panels. But the big tires pushed all the way out to the corners looks sweet. Definitely an Audi influence. The other catch is it being a Chrysler product. At least it has a German transmission.