Pop N Wood

Man. You have to hate it when someone shows you a better way after you already have parts in hand. Looks like Summit sells an aluminum version for only $3 a piece. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SUM%2D220756&N=700+4294924496+4294839052+4294849583+4294906726+4294906724+115&autoview=sku Couldn't find a tube to hose barb adaptor on Jegs or Summit. Doesn't mean they don't exist. One tip on the stainless hard line. I read one article that said to use a hack saw to cut stainless hard line rather than a tubing cutter. Said the tubing cutter will work harden the stainless making it impossible to flare.

There is some gorgeous work in there. but I don't know about that dry sump for a car. I can see they could not afford the sump clearance, but there are two problems that I see. First, the oil pan is considered a structural member on an LS motor, so may need some type of girdle to pick up strength that may be lost from that carbon fibre pan. Second, unless you want to run a prop it looks like you will need to use a different pump than they do. this is their oil pump and pan

I bought a new house that the deal with the original owner fell through on so the builder was looking to move it. I had the option of paying $8k under list, or paying list and having them kick in $8k toward closing. When I went to settle somehow $3k of that $8k got eaten up by various builder fees and of course the good faith estimate of closing cost was in the builder's faith and not mine, so ended up with a mortgage a few grand more than list. But whether you pay more or less than the asking price is highly dependent upon the current housing market. Really you can't compare a deal 15 years ago with one today. It also is highly dependent upon what area of the country you are in.

I can respect what you are saying. Kudos for getting your priorities straight. But are you sure you can't find a place to put it in storage for the next several years? Maybe a house with a 2 car garage?

Wait until you get it in the car and see which has more clearance.

I did what Jon said and reused the lines I already had.

Man, this would be a good thing for the Z community. Those steering rack fittings have been NLA for years. Seems like you could get MSA or Black Dragon interested in a group buy.

I threw away most of my hardline also. I then bought a mix of metric and SAE fittings that all work with standard 3/16 inch hardline using a standard SAE flare wrench. This way I can use metric fittings on all the hardline that mates with stock Datsun stuff and standard fittings on the prop valves and Tilton MC's. I did go with the super fly wazoo 90-10 cuperous nickle line, but only because it is suppose to be easier to work with. The fittings obviously will work with any 3/16 hardline. For fuel I was talking about fittings like this http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=RUS%2D610020&N=700+400081+115&autoview=sku The fit onto 3/8 inch braided rubber hose, yet give you the nice slip fitting for your fuel cell's AN attachments. When you go to hook the other end to the fuel filter/pump/regulator, then you have a choice of using another AN hose fitting, or getting a standard (cheap) 3/8 NPT hose barb and using hose clamps. Summit sells the braided hose that is suppose to work with their brand of AN fittings in various lengths at a reasonable price. The straight fittings are reasonably priced ($5), but the 90 and 45 degree fittings can get expensive ($15) in any quantity. They also sell AN to hard line compression fittings. So from my tank to the hard lines I will have rubber hose and clamps, but from the hard line forward it will all be AN stuff. I will be running a carb with return style regulator under the hood.

Didn't a member by the name of MatGNZ make a number of those mounts? Maybe he still has some to sell. If I were you I would start a new thread with a title like "Want to buy a Ron Tyler Diff Mount". I would also do a search to see who has made any of them and whether there are still some available. Seems like something Ross should carry.

Why not stick with the standard metric double flare fittings for the brake stuff? I think you only want to go to AN fitting if you plan on doing a lot of disassembly. For fuel, they make connectors that go from AN to just about anything else. They make AN connectors that hook directly to braided 3/8 or 1/2 inch fuel hose. Go to Jegs or Summit and look at either their store brand or Russel. I have bought a bunch that I have yet to hook up, but they look really simple to do. You simply slide the hose onto a barb on the connector then wrench down an outer fitting. AN connectors are a bit of a PITA for fuel system, because it seems like every fuel part has 3/8 NPT fittings. That mean all the connectors are a inch longer because you have to use a 3/8 NPT to male AN adaptor. Under hood I will be using ann AN stuff and braided hose, but back at the FP and filter I plan using barbed fitting and black rubber hoses with standard clamps. Going to a hydraulics shop for crimped fittings is good way to go, but I managed to get an entire fuel system using Russel connectors, and everything will wrench together.

Z people are more of a hands on type crowd. We would rather do something like this ourselves. We are also notoriously cheap You also forqot "the government", as in taxes, workmans comp. Plus shop fees, rent, utilities. All those things you have to pay to run a shop legally that DIY people always forget.

You need to go to http://www.baddogparts.com and look at their rails. They make two different types, one for the 240 and one for the 280 The 240 rails have the flat lip, the 280 rails are a simple U shape. I *think* the 280 ones slip over the existing rails but the 240 ones require removing the stock rails. But before you begin a big job like that you are going to do your own search and make sure what you are doing, correct?

For that kind of money you could buy a new LS7 motor.

Only a rich man can afford cheap paint.

Did she take the twins with her? Damn. What a loss for mankind.

There are a few other expenses that are being forgotten. The "00+ f body and truck manifolds" may flow as well, but they won't fit in a Z. So keep that $400 budgeted for headers. You should be able to use the JTR headers. Also you will need an F body oil pan since the truck pan is too deep. That will probably mean a new oil pickup and possibly windage tray. Good luck finding that stuff at a junk yard, so hello GM direct for new parts. Then the truck accessories (including the water pump) are different from the F body stuff (which is different from the Corvette stuff). If all you want is an alternator then you might be able to work up a custom mount. Otherwise you are looking at getting an F body water pump, crank pulley, and brackets. Not sure if the alternator is the same between the truck and F body. Once again that stuff isn't exactly littering the JY's so you may need to ebay or buy new. Last the reason you can't use the truck FI is I believe it will be too tall to fit under a Z hood. The carb intake is pretty tall also and may not clear a stock hood when using the JCI mounting kit. Custom mounts will allow you to get the engine lower. But then you are building custom mounts.

LOL I could see that happening to me. Had to have been frustrating.

Mind if I send my bank account number?

I would plan a little more than an hour to do struts and springs. Maybe the second time you do them it would be in the couple of hours range. but first time through plan on a weekend. You will need a pretty big wrench to get the gland nuts off. That can be a couple hours going to the rental place right there.

Just shine that turd up like Dan did. I'd take his car any day of the week.

No, you don't keep the stock lower mount. At least you don't have to. The RT mount takes the place of the stock mount. Really you don't get a LOT of room to adjust the nose of the diff with this set up. Look at your stock front diff isolator. It is only a half inch or so thick. That is all the farther down you can adjust the nose of the diff before it starts to hit the stock cross member. The energy suspension isolators are pretty damn thick too. Read back through this post. I had to grind away part of the ES isolator just to get the diff up off the cross member. And remember you can adjust the mustache bar isolator washers to further change the angle on the diff. With a stock L6 I would think just bolting in the RT mount then adjusting it so the nose of the diff is ~about~ the same height off the cross member as it was with the stock isolator will get your driveline angles where they belong. Should be an easy thing to measure. Just measure the thickness of the stock isolator.

No. The body on that is beyond repair. You might be able to salvage some useful parts. See if you can get the tail lights and both front turn signals. The 240 ones are getting more and more rare. The rear bumper looked good at first, but then I saw that big ass dent. The front bumper could be worth something if it is complete and not mangled. That looks like a series 1 car that should have had the rear hatch vents. The ashtray is worth $150-$200 if it is in good shape. Not likely with that tub of rusted parts. you might also be able to sell the title and VIN plate to someone in California with a post 75 280....

That is a very common theft. It keeps them from getting pulled over for expired tags. Whenever I put on a new sticker, I peel off the old one, clean the surface so the new sticker will stick properly, then make numerous cross hatch cuts through the new sticker with a razor blade. That way the sticker can't be taken off in one piece. If you have 100 years of old stickers applied on old stickers, then you are theft bait. Those come off real easy.

I would let her wreck your corvette for sex.

Why would they put the instrument panel and gas tank right above the open headers? I would want some outriggers in case that thing backfires and trys to torque over.