Pop N Wood

I am not familiar with these cars. Could someone tell me if that is just a turbo L6 like they put in Z's?

This link estimates 2500 # curb weight. Under 6 second 0-60. Strut front suspension though, but multilink rear.

I am going to upgrade my supply and return lines. But I plan on doing it by soldering in new lines similar to the way the stock lines are placed. Simply take some 3/8 inch line, fashion a pick up and return, solder them to a small plate, then solder the plate to the tank in hole I drill near the stock pickups. Doesn't seem that complicated. As for clean and sealed, be careful of applying any aftermarket tank sealers. There has been more than one member who went through months of being stranded on the side of the road before they figured out the linings were disintigrating and clogging their fuel system. Just make sure you do the sealers exactly right.

For the same reason modern econoboxes don't get the super high gas mileage of the same cars back in the70's and 80's: modern safety standards have just made everything too damn heavy. Air bags, crash test, all that crap adds weight. The Solice platform is a perfect example. A small car that is still a heavy pig. Cars have also gotten so expensive with fuel injection computers, air bags, lifetime emissions warranties, that trying to save money by eliminating all the bells and whistles just makes the consumer feel cheated. The base cost of the car is already so high that the buyer is left thinking he paid a ton for not much. The extras don't add much to the total so why not be comfortable? And I absolutely disagree with the notion that inexpensive and sporty = massive sales. Just compare the sales of 240Z's with ZX's. Bigger, heavier, more comfortable, more options = more sales and bigger mark ups (hence profit).

Being low on coolant can also cause the temp gauge to read low. Beyond that replace your thermostat

Three things. First 71 240's had the diff mounted 35 mm farther forward than later variants. So unless someone has upgraded your car to move the diff back where it belongs, you will have to turn the diff mount backwards from the way everyone else uses it. Second, I think the diff mount for the 71's is slightly different from the later models anyway. At least if I remember correctly MSA has different part numbers for the early vs. later cars. Third, don't use a solid front diff mount. Not unless you also plan to solid mount the rear of the diff. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108276&highlight=solid+diff http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=117336&highlight=solid+diff

No

This has been talked about on here before. It was decided that bolting an extender plate to an extender plate was probably a bad idea. Plus you would have to move the alternator from the stock F body location. Or is this something you have already done?

It will run right down the driveway if I pull the wheel chocks. It ran up to last July when I pulled the motor. Hopefully just a couple three months till it runs again.

If you search through some old posts you will find several people who complain that the John's Cars LS manual could be more clearly written. But there are enough people who have done it that pretty much any question you have will be answered here.

Definitely an issue with the float/needle valve not shutting off properly. I had that happen before and it was dirt in the needle valve. I rebuilt the carb (a rochester) and put in a new needle valve. It started overflowing again. Took out the new needle valve from the cheap rebuild kit and replaced it with the old one and all was good.

Gorgeous car. Reminds me of what I once wanted my 69 Camaro convertible to look like.

Do you know if the JTR headers will clear the K frame on the passenger's side? Because i don't think it would the way my LS motor is sitting. The driver's side header comes out behind the TC cups. But on the other side I would worry about header and starter clearance. Also I would think seriously about reinforcing the TC cups where the K frame pieces attach to them. I think the weight of the engine will flex that end of the frame.

Well. Maybe a couple of gentle tugs will straighten things out for you.

Maybe we can tell you if one is hanging lower than the other

Thank you

Did you try turning all the pieces by hand to check for excessive friction? Is a brake locking up? does everything turn smoothly?

Can anyone give me a heads up on how I remove the big black plastic oil fill tube on the valve cover of my LS2? Does it screw off or do I need to pull the valve cover to get to a retaining nut or something? thanks

Not doubting what you say, but you are the first person who I have heard say that. Most guys have good results with the JTR radiator.

Yeah baby. Duct tape bandages on half your fingers. You are a sheet metal worker.! BTW, even a piece of white paper on the dash of my car causes a distracting glare in the windsheild. You will undoubtably be forced to paint or cover up the portion under the glass.

Plug weld pliers Vise grips with a copper backing plate made just for filling in holes

You do realize this is a car site?

TonyD This is the first I have heard of your pics. If you could find the link I for one would love to see them.

No. Not my ash tray. Figure by the time my kids are college age the ash tray will pay for their first year. I might be interested in just buying your center console if the price is reasonable You mean a shifter like this: Or just an extender like this That was my original plan, but the way the engine ended up the shaft out of the trans is hitting sheet metal. I will need to move the shifter opening forward about an inch just to get out of second gear. The 70 console overlaps the sheet metal opening by a good inch so there is just not much hope for it. The option might be to completely remove the cross piece then come up with some type of half cover for the ash tray opening.

Looks like they pulled that ad in hurry. Must have been good.