Pop N Wood
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Everything posted by Pop N Wood
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I understand that stuff is different, but I don't see most of that stuff in the car pictured. And what is there looks unsalvagable. If someone does have a 69 I can't believe it could be in worse shape than that one. So what would that car have that the other doesn't? It is worth $102.50 to someome so far. Let's see what it goes for.
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I know that O2 sensors, especially wide band ones, can get destroyed if silicone gets on the sensor from either the inside or outside. But I have never heard of it leaching through the oil.
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Definitely a lot fewer complex parts on a carb. But once you get the FI running it should be pretty reliable.
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Amazing how flat that torque curve is. Now you need a cam and some stiffer valve springs to pick up some more RPM
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I can't imagine what is on the 69 that could be reused. The interior is trashed, most of the rare parts are missing, the dash is capped, the hood smashed, body panels look like they are rusted through along the bottom and the everything is coated with wet leaves from where it has been sitting outside.
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That is Pete's. funny how the guy says in the ad "not pic #4". So why put it in the ad?
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I have read the same thing. Actually the quote was etching primer just isn't needed.
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I was going to say the only thing worth saving on that car is the VIN plates, but even those look dilapidated.
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I have the prices I paid for the LS7 clutch set up, but Excel isn't working right now due to a computer crash. IIRC the clutch and pressure plate are under $300, and the matching flywheel, which you will need anyway, is under $200. I want to say somewhere near $450 for all three, plus a new pilot bearing. $2450 will buy you a brand new, after market T56. Look here. The new ones don't break down like the old one inevitably do. D&D's upgraded trans offers mechanical speedo drives. Figure T56 rebuilds start at something like $1500 And on the intake, what I have seen a number of people on LS1tech.com do is put injectors into the carb intake an add a 90º top hat. The single plenum intake reportedly flows better with large displacement engines.
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There is a good bit of copper in the motors. They might get a few bucks from a metal yard. The pick and pull near me will buy old batteries and alternators too.
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240Z Front Bumper Differences
Pop N Wood replied to Titus_RacerX's topic in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
I didn't realize there was a difference in how the 240 bumpers were mounted. But I learn new things all the time. What I do know is early bumpers command top dollar. They are hard to find used in good condition, and new ones, although still available, run something like a grand. MSA has fiberglass and carbon fiber repos. Worthless in a parking lot bump but a lower cost option. -
That Honda HF or whatever it was called was a perfect starting platform. Those were made back before the safety nazi's deemed crash resistance to be more important to the average consumer than weight and fuel economy. Those things got 50+ MPG back in the days before electic hybrids. The shape is unoriginal, it reminds me of the EV1. Or some 50's concept car with the turd shaped taper on either end. With all that said, that car is flat out hideous. I'll bet he catches no end of crap for driving it, and his mom wants it out of the driveway. Try picking a date up in that thing and you will learn real quick just how ugly it is.
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I can see where that is true if the battery ground is the only chassis ground. But is is true if there is also an engine to chassis ground? I know I always pull my negative battery cable first. Maybe they are just stuck in the mindset of electricians where the ground wire is never switched. Doesn't make a lot of sense when it comes to a vehicle with it's floating ground.
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Must be the angle of the photo. The whole motor/trans if offset about an inch to the starboard side. I used the laser tool to get everything in line when I made the mount.
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Not bad for ballpark numbers. Although many of them look on the low side. Exhaust in particular looks low. You will need the oil pump pickup, dipstick and windage tray also. Not sure what you will need to spend to mount and plumb the SC. Add another $500 to $1000 for miscellaneous, like gaskets, fuel fittings, fasteners and what not. Also a stock LS1/6 intake is probably not the best option for a blown motor. The carb intakes actually flow better with large displacement motors. And what about upgraded injectors to handle the extra HP? And software to retune the ECM? Will you be modifying a stock harness? What are you going to do about guages? And cooling, do you already have a good radiator and electric fan? I would suggest an LS7 clutch and flywheel rather than a stock Z06 unit. I think the total on that is more like $400 than $750. Will still need a new MC and lines. And you haven't mentioned the rear end...
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I think about that too. Guess it comes down to trying to save a little money. Autozone starters are typically rebuilt junk, just cleaner. GM wants some stupid amount of money for a new unit. The only real aftermarket options are a Powermaster unit at $217, a red MSD unit at $240 and a summit brand unit for $160. I already returned the summit unit cause it doesn't really work on LS motors. Kind of hard to argue 200+ vs. 20 or so when it will do nothing to make the car go faster. Especially when everyone on LS1tech.com seems to stay with a stock unit. Figure that decision can wait until I bolt the headers up for the last time.
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I don't know that an LS is fiscally any larger than a SBC. I know for a fact you can use a first gen bellhousing on an LS1 and bolt that to a muncie or TKO. so everything from their on back can be identical if so desired. I believe the motors have the same bore spacings, so I would be suprised if the length is very different. Just looking at pics of Z car swaps the motors seem to have the same basic clearance for headers and such. The lack of a distributor seems to make the LS motors smaller than the first gens. The low mounted alternator causes some Z car issues, but that can be moved also.
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I think he should move closer to work. Don't understand long commutes. He has some pretty good science in his methods. Can't believe he can actually measure a 2-3 mpg hit from using his lights, and more importantly was able to determine the majority was from the parking lights. But like one auto designer once said, anyone can make an aerodynamic car. the trick is to make one that looks good.
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Opitma battery issues/options?
Pop N Wood replied to Chemicalblue's topic in Ignition and Electrical
Get one of those computerized battery chargers designed to be installed right on the car. From what I have read a regular lead acid battery will get choked with sulfates in short order if left unused for any period of time. The computerized chargers are supposes to exercise the battery and keep it fresh while in storage. -
I can find them on car-parts.com. But they want $50 to $75. Pic and pulls only want $20 or so. Will probably do the $50 option. I'm telling you, the Gen III SBC vehicles get the engines yanked out before they hit the yard.
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There are actually several different fans used on Taurus'. Just keep walking around until you find one that looks like the second fan in post #15. If you find the Lincoln fan recommended by MikeJTR (i.e. JTR), then do us a favor and post a pic. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=113189&highlight=lincoln+taurus Grab the relays from the Taurus when you grab the fan. Doesn't have to be a Volvo relay.
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Meant to add good work. Just worry about the edges.
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Car wax works pretty well on aluminum. Hides scratches and tooling marks in the aluminum pretty well too. If you have completely etched off the oxide layer with acid, then may be a bit much to ask of the wax. But give it a try on a small piece of alum and let us know how it works. Got me interested so I did a quick google search. Came up with this stuff http://www.theruststore.com/Bull-Frog-Rust-Blocker-P26C0.aspx
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Yeah, I hope that is a track only car with a full harness. The stock dash was padded for a reason.
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It is possible to build crossmembers with little more than a hammer, vice, MIG and a bunch of flat steel welded together a piece at a time. Took more than an hour to figure out what I wanted to do though.