Pop N Wood

Yeah, restore some order and thanks for serving.

Here we go, pick it up at Sears http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00986520000P?vName=Tools&keyword=torque

I don't see where a Z car has room to mount a brake on the front of the diff. Maybe a halfshaft, but the input flange of a long nose is pretty tight.

Just to add, beam type torque wrenches hold their calibration better than the click type. Makes them a better choice for the average motor head who doesn't have access to a calibration lab. They are cheaper too. FWIW, the Navy required all torque wrenches used in the reactor plant to be recalibrated every 6 months.

A nibbler shouldn't throw any sparks. Especially an air powered one. I wouldn't hesitate to use the nibbler. Besides, your fuel connections don't leak, right? But have to ask, if you want to change out the sending unit why would you cut a hole in the car instead of dropping the tank?

Like stated above the CFM rating varies drastically with pressure. At the recommendation of several other members on here I bought a Titan HVLP gun. My 5 HP compressor easily keeps up with this gun http://www.midwayautosupply.com/p-46219-vaper-hvlp-gravity-feed-spray-gun-red-body-19018.aspx

Yeah, borrow a bigger wrench from Autozone or rent one from a rental place. Or just buy one for your self and consider it an investment in your tool future.

Doesn't change the facts. That is a major repair. At least no one was hurt and you are not in jail or facing a lawsuit. All in all a tough thing to happen but lucky none the less. Get a new shell and start swapping parts.

Try rebuilding it. Jegs has a kit to convert a Delco to a 100 amp output, and it includes new bearings http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_10001_10002_750754_-1_10685 They also have 1 wire alts from $85

Well you have to read the search results too. (just pulling your chain). From the earlier thread http://www.pstds.com/custom_driveshafts.htm mild steel, fully custom built $149 to $199

I have been reading about people working on this idea for over 30 years. The physics of the problem hasn't changed much since then. Anyone who thinks a piston in an engine spinning at 6000 RPM is just going to "tap" the valve closed has been drinking too much kool aid. Think of the forces involved. The electronic actuator will need to be just as strong as the mechanical one. The exact reason why this method has never gone into production. Guess I don't need to worry about that nut I droped down my intake. The piston will just tap it back out again on the exhaust stroke.

You REALLY need to do a search. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=124744

This place has an excellent rep for selling LS motors http://stores.ebay.com/Fparts_Engines_LS1-LS6-LS2-Engines_W0QQfsubZ2 They have an 02 LS1 with manual trans for a buy it now of $4700. You can also contact them directly. They only sell a fraction of their inventory on ebay. BTW, add at least 2-3 thousand more to all of your swap estimates.

It has a ported LS6 oil pump....

I think at the time Tim240 posted those rules CA had a rolling 25 or 30 year exemption. Shortly afterthat it got capped to 75 and earlier. Might explain the descrepancy.

I would pay $5k for a rust free 280. But like EvilC says, paint hides everything. Hell, even carpet and sound deadening hides things. I have owned my 240 for over 20 years now and I didn't know a section of my floor pan needed replacing until I went to put in subframe connectors. The tar must have detatched years ago trapping water underneath. Something I wouldn't have found if I hadn't removed the tar for the SFC. Just finished the job last night. One could say I got burned by my own car. I'll bet you could put a 5.0 in there for less than $4K.

There have been countless discussion on this very topic. Lighter weight, harder to find, more costly to buy, better looking 240 vs. stronger, more common and generally cheaper 280. Plus FI gas tank and usually R200 vs. R180 in favor of the 280.. (a lot of opinion in this paragraph, opinions will vary) But I agree with Cozy, look for a solid car. Rust can take all the joy out of the project.

This has been a worth while thread. I thought an optima would be the solution to long periods of sitting. Now looks like the computer battery minder is the proper course of action. Hate the thought of leaving any type of battery charger plugged in an unattended garage around the clock. Just have to hope they are well enough made to not burn down my house. But I know from past experience that standard batteries are dead after 6 months of non-use, so guess I will have to do something.

Carrying 10 foot moldings in my Tacoma extra cab in just that manner has them hanging 2 feet past the back of the tailgate. You will need a full sized truck for that. Or a suburban. The more I think about it a minivan is the perfect option. A Grand Caravan with the second and third row seats removed will carry 4x8 sheets of drywall flat. The 10 footer should easily fit between the front seats with the rear hatch shut. Some even come in 4wd.

I don't think your concerns are valid. The stock L6 is offset to one side also, you unquestionably will have some latitude moving the crossmember fore and aft if need be. This will allow you to compensate for the car not be "factory straight" and even for different shifters. With the engine only a half inch off the firewall you aren't going to have too much wiggle room for different trannys regardless of the mounts. If someone has a the mig needed to weld that thing in, they will undoubtably have a hammer and maybe torch needed to compensate for a warped chassis.

Get a small pickup with a camper shell then strap the long board to the top of the shell. I have carried canoes that way. The bed will hold 6 footers with the gates closed and 8 footers can angle up off the tailgate and out the open camper shell hatch. Or a truck with ladder racks. A Subaru wagon with roof racks will work also. Or a minivan with roof racks. A grand caravan can hold a 4x8 sheet of plywood on the inside. Put the 10 footer on the roof and the shorter boards on the inside. Then cruise the local soccer fields for women.

If it works OK for a while then blows up real good, you might have an intermittent short. There might be a piece of wire with worn through insulation that every now and then contacts a piece of steel shorting the circuit dead to ground. Intermittent grounds can be hard to find with a multimeter, cause they aren't always shorted out. My suggestion is to do a close visual inspection of the whole length of the wires downstream of the blown link. Pay particular attention to the areas where they pass through sheetmetal openings or otherwise rub against body parts. If anything is frayed, replace it. If the fuses really do blow spectacularly, then there may be some arcing at the point of the short. Look for black marks or melted insulation.

The few documented swaps have used the whole assembly (like Scottie). But I do remember an ad for a Z with just the Corvette pumpkin and the stock Z everything else. The ad included pictures. However I have never seen a write up or any details of what is involved with that swap. So yeah, it can and has been done, but not a lot of details on this site. That should tell you something. You might be better off sticking with a positraction R200. Or an R230 if it just has to be bigger.

I have been feeling rather down since the holidays, so I decided to call the suicide hotline. I got connected to an outsource center in Pakistan. I told the guy I was feeling suicidal. He got all excited and asked if I knew how to drive a truck.