Pop N Wood

If you were driving around with a loose TC rod you might have uneven wear on the tires. Check the surface for uneven wear, then rotate and balance the wheels. What you really need to do is go over the entire suspension, front and back, checking for worn parts. Retorque every nut and bolt to factory specs and get the front end aligned. Check the rear alignment also. Following all that, steering wheel shakes while braking can be caused by "warped" rotors. BUT what people call warped rotors is often the result of not properly beding the brake pads. An uneven layer of brake pad material gets depositied on the rotors causing some parts to be "stickier" than others. This causes an oscillation in braking with the corresponding vibration. If you do all of the above and still get shakes, then turn the rotors (or replace them), put on new pads then do a search for the proper brake pad beding procedure.

But where would you put the #9 resistors on a hot wheel car? I am not building a race car. Do you think #3 or #4 resistors would be enough for my street car?

Had something similar on my 240. I never had visible leakage, but putting green dye in the coolant and wrapping paper towels around the head definitely showed where the coolant was leaking and immediately evaporating. The correct solution is to pull the head, check it and the block for flatness then install a new head gastket. The $2 fix is to add a tube of radiator stop leak. If it is a big leak, especially with your turbo, you may want to pull the head. if it is a small leak, like my 240, then the stop leak will do the job.

Hit a JY and get a new diff yoke.

Sounds like you ordered the wrong driveshaft adapter flange. Forget what year Z you have. Look at the picture on the JTR site and take some careful measurements. Don't worry about the shape (round or rectangular). Just look at the bolt hole diameter and spacing. https://shell7.tdl.com/~jags/Pages/Parts_DAT_driveshaft_flange.html

All I want for Christmas is 2 or 3 uninteruppted weeks to work on my Z..... Damn. Families and earning the mortgage sure chews up time. PS. The Brazilian girls sounds nice. Would get rid of the family problems at the same time.

second that

Apply to the HybridZ post of your choice...

Damn. Wish I hadn't taken so many drugs back in the hippie days. This thread seems to be causing me flashbacks. Cathodic traction. Damn.

You do realize the current scrap metal prices are so high that metal yards are paying over $200 for junked cars. My brother says the high prices have motivated a number of his neighbors to clean up their yards I don't see why you had to pay $30 to get rid of the Trans Am shell.

You guys do realize that the smooth air flow over the hood causes a low pressure area above the hood. Just like an airplane wing. This causes lift, regardless of what the fan/radiator/front air dam is or isn't doing. It is not so much a high pressure inside the engine compartment that lifts the hood (although with the large radiator opening I am sure there is some of that) as it is the flow over the top of the smooth hood. The same thing happens to the back end. Making the rear of the Z so smooth and sloping was actually a mistake on Nissan's part. This causes the rear end to lift (be sucked up) at speed. If you look at the early Z car aerodynamics link that I think Mike posted (an absolutely excellent article by the way), the author recommends putting some turbulence strips along the top of the car just in front of the rear hatch. Says they should disrupt the air flow preventing lift just like the turbulence strips on the top of Indy car racing helmets. I know Smokey Yunick use to put a lip at the back of the roof line in all of his race cars.

Jon and veritech-z are correct. The base of the hood is a high pressure area which forces air into the engine compartment. In terms of airflow there is dead area at the base of the windshield due to the bend between the hood and the windshield. The airstream is deflected above this area. Think of those car commercials where they do a smoke test of a car in a wind tunnel. Those illustrate the principle pretty well. Put a vent in the middle of the hood where the airflow is uninterrupted and it will draw air out of the engine bay. This is exactly what Nissan did with the later 70 Z cars.

summit racing carries all types of hard throttle linkage pieces and kits.

That's not my car, nor my idea. Follow the hyperlink on the pic and it will take you to Pete Paraska's site. I don't have a JTR kit because I went with an LS2 motor. Then I got cute and decided to use a carb and different transmission, so I had to build my own one-off mounts. I am using a lot of the info from the JTR manual. So no matter which mounting solution you choose, pick up a JTR book.

Couple of other people have posted picks of sumps you weld onto the bottom of the stock tank. Seems like the easiest, cheapest and one of the most effective ways to do it. According to the post the key is to drill no more than 3 holes 1/2 inch in diameter to let the fuel in.

The hood latch is far from an insurmountable problem. There is a flat spot on the underside of the hood to move the latch assembly to the right or left.

Stay away from ebay http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=SUM%2D820323&N=700+4294883170+400304+4294908216+4294908395+4294840140+115&autoview=sku $140 and they will get it to you withing 2-3 days.

I do not notice any difference between the HF and Lowes/Homers cut off wheels. They seem to last a good while. I think I have used Norton wheels in my 7 1/4 inch circle saw. Can't remember if there was any difference between them and the HF stuff. At least nothing that jumped out at me. Cutting thick plate with a sawsall would be a nightmare. I can't imagine getting a straight cut and also how many blades you would go though. I have cut a lot of 3/16 plate with a circle saw and an abrasive disk, but I have an old $40 Sears saw I use just for this. I would not use a quality saw because it is really hard on the saw. A couple of vise grips and a piece of angle iron make a perfect saw guide to get straight and accurate cuts. I have even made wood mitre boxes for cutting pipe with the circle saw. I would love to have a bandsaw, but just not enough room in the garage for one.

I have had a couple of major bikee wrecks, but I always managed to tuck my head in and roll. Thankfully I never did a face plant. The worse wreck is where I tumbled over a dog at about 30 mph. Had some major big-phill type bruises for 3 or 4 weeks following that one. Even bruised my dick. In some respects the survival skills riding a bicycle are the same as the skills needed to survive on a motor cycle. You alway have to be anticipating an accident and be thinking about your "outs". Sounds like you are on the road to recovery.

LOL. To the point. The problem with an "original scarab" is everyone of them is a one off. There is no way to tell if the car is "all original" because there is no master list of what was done to each one. And even if it came out of the scarab garage and was sealed and stored, it would still just reflect the tastes of the guy who commisioned it's butchering. IMO if you won't modify your Z then you are completely missing the point of Z ownership. These cars are way too much fun to modify. In fact, I say we HybridZ members are the true Z car lovers and purists. We are the only one's that truly respect their potential and care enough to set them right.

If the engine is rotating in one direction, the diff will try to rotate in the opposite direction. That is why a solid rear axle car will try to lift one wheel. Noticed Jon just beat me to it.

Actually I linked to that thread on the first page. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115905 Excellent write up, worthy of sticky status. Has the same info as Pete's page with some additional info. Actually I was always critical of the Ron Tyler mount thinking a more simple solution would be better. Once I got the car apart and actually saw how easy it is to do, I was sold. It took maybe half a day to make. The other thing to keep in mind is the R180 front crossmember is no where near as heavy or strong as the R200 units. Something to think about before you start drilling holes or go to a solid mount.

Yeah, but I hear you have to completely rebuild those things every 500 miles or so....

If you set the carbs up to run on E85, then it will be tuned to run on E85 and E85 only. Switch to standard gas and you will be running too rich. Better make sure there are plenty of E85 stations in your driving area. To answer your question, try some google searches. There are web sites that detail exactly what needs to be done to convert to E85. Not sure if they mention carbs, but probably do. In fact, here is a good thread to start with. http://running_on_alcohol.tripod.com/id26.html

Damn. Didn't realize I was touching on a religious issue.