ryan95i4

I may have a potential buyer overseas, but this would be a first for me. Nothing is finalized, just working on details, but I want to be sure to cover my bases. Does anyone have any advice on how to arrange payment? Im assuming the safest method is a wire transfer. Also, does anyone have a freight forwarder they would recommend? If it matters, the car would be going from Florida to the Middle East.

That intake manifold looks nice! Is that the Senza manifold?

Followed! im @ ryan95i4 http://instagram.com/ryan95i4 Actually, i think theres a link in my sig

Picked up a new (to me) daily couple weeks ago to finally replace my Durango which was closing in on 175K miles. Now im driving a V when im not driving the Z '06 CTS-V w/ FG2 suspension. Mostly stock, just GMPP catback but a blast to drive. Makes the Z look tiny but i totally understand why everyone wants to put LS motors in the Z's ha.

Anyone using their Haltech to control boost mind sharing their turbo setup and boost control maps? I just installed my boost control solenoid last weekend and have a rough setup now. Im running a MAC valve (part no. 35A-AAA-DDBA-1BA, which is the same part as the rebranded Haltech valve which cost 4x more), with the stock turbo. I just have a rough map now, only spent a few minutes on it and really just enough time to dial in 11.5-12psi with little to no boost spikes. Stock motor, stock turbo w/ bolt ons plus fuel and LS coils. As you can see, i just dialed in a flat number to get to my target boost, then compensated below that boost level for quicker spool, and above that number to limit spikes. I havent gone any further yet but Im interested in how people who have more seat time have dealt with the nuances of open loop boost control, such as changing duty cycle at higher rpms to compensate for flow limitations, or maximizing spool while limiting spiking. Obviously specific maps wont carry over from car to car, but im interested in the overall flow of other peoples maps and their experience using ECU controlled boost. Im running a haltech PS 500, so im limited to open loop boost control, but from what ive learned, setting this open loop table is the first step even when using closed loop boost control, so hopefully even the guys with the bigger boxes can contribute. Thanks!

You'll ditch the AFM entirely. Most people go to speed density tuning (MAP sensor) instead of using a MAF at all.

You can find bosch style connectors at amazon or any auto parts store for injectors and the factory CHTS. For everything else I used weatherpack connectors. You can get those on amazon, DIYautotune, waytek, etc. There are other connector options out there, Deutsch for example, just depends on your needs.

I'll just pile on at this point and also recommend avoiding anything in the 30yr old engine harness and archaic l-jet ecu. I went with Haltech, but cgsheen is right, build a new harness and use anything other than the orginal ECU and you will be much better off.

'grats!

+1 vote for haltech and all new engine harness. All the systems mentioned are great options though. I just preferred the Haltech software.

That is exactly the spring I am talking about. I was afraid of that, hopefully I can find some replacement springs or used lock mechanisms from someones parts car

i believe its a flat spiral spring, but in the FSM the door lock mechanism is listed as one part, there isnt a exploded view of the lock mechanism and all its parts (#3 in this pic: http://i.imgur.com/nma2iAF.jpg )

Looks like I'm not the only one: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/117274-door-lock-mechanism-part-75z/ I need the springs that keep tension on the lock knob rod when you unlock the doors for both doors. Without the spring, the locks fall locked once you remove the key from the door. Mine is a 73 but i dont *think* they changed throughout the years. Anyone have a parts car or any other source for this? I havent been able to find anyone selling this seperately (it may not be available seperately, not sure). Thanks,

I was about to make this same post, I'm looking for two of the leaf springs for the door locks. Havent been able to find them separately anywhere though.

Unless someone can suggest something better, this may be what I end up doing as well Which Hawks?

Hello all, Im wondering if anyone has found a good low-dust brake pad option for the Toyota 4x4 calipers. I do not track my Z at all, so a street pad is more than alright, but I want something that is very low-dusting. Right now Im just using a set of generic semi-metallics which dust quite a bit. Some of my E55 and 'Vette buddies recommend Akebone (they say the closest to "no dust" theyve had), but it doesn't look like they make anything for the toyota calipers (though I did find a set for the maxima rear setup). Any suggestions? Thanks in advance,

http://imgur.com/

Car pics and description look good, as long a ton of rust isnt hiding underneath seems like a good deal for a rhd.

PM'd

Lots of high quality on this page, great pics all Hopefully I dont bring the average down too much, but snapped these the other day

Sorry if this was already posted elsewhere, but stumbled on this.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-L6-DOHC-Cylinder-Head-240Z-260Z-280Z-L24-L26-L28-Fairlady-Z-Nissan-/261351937213?pt=Race_Car_Parts&hash=item3cd9ca14bd&vxp=mtr So who is going to grab it and finish it off?

I dont know anything about the car, but I found him on instagram a few days ago http://instagram.com/yoshi_yokota#

Stock motor (7.4:1 compression) on 93 oct All my tuning to this point has been seat-of-the-pants, which makes ignition tuning difficult. I really need to get the car on a dyno, but is also why I had hoped some other L28ET guys would share their timing maps for comparisons sake.

Other than crank timing, zero-throttle and post-start offset i have the other correction tables turned off until Im confident my base map is 100%