grannyknot

I'm still using them and they work well enough, ideally it would be nice to find a lift that pushed up with a bit more force but the lifts are so small that there isn't a lot of selction in the size. They do give you a lot of extra room in front the the Rad support for cold air intakes. Here is the long version, page 8, post #191, https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50240-thinking-about-installing-an-bmw-m6-engine-in-my-z/?&page=8#comments

This kit will save you some time finding all the stuff you will need to make those 280zx calipers work, https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/24-5581

You might have a look through the archives as everything you are going to run into has been solved before,https://forums.hybridz.org/ If you are serious about that kind of power you are going to have add extensive body strengthening/stiffening to keep the car from twisting up and to help actually get that power to the ground, you might also want to consider an integrated roll cage.

That is a major undertaking, first off you will need the correct dimensions for the car, by either measuring it yourself or check this thread, https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/33933-chassis-and-body-dimensions-for-us-240z-available/ You might also want to build a full length jig for the car and after removing the old section just place the new section on to those same support points. That the air scoop/vent is one of the aftermarket originals made back around 1973 to help deal with the carb heat issues.

@Zetsaz, @Ben280 I have to admit that I haven't paid as much attention as I should and maybe the negative comments just stick in my memory longer but I guess my real point is good intentions are not enough. ALL of the R&D should be done before the product hits the market and not at the expense of the customer. Anyone who makes a product for our old cars is doing us all a favor for sure but it is not enough to release a product that has 80% of the problems figured out.

I reached out to Mike just to give him a heads up and received this reply, I'm sure you will hear from him very shortly. I didn't know about the single parent thing, that must be quite recent and explains a few things. Hope this helps. Whitehead Performance 5:51 PM (44 minutes ago) to me Thanks for the heads up. yup that one slipped by me both putting the diff together and now the refund. So far behind on things - everytime the kids get sent home i have to be home with them at least 50% of the time (single parent). Just can't keep up with everything like this. Not complaining just being straight on what my situation is. But everyone here is okay and i hope the same for you on your end. Thanks, Mike Hansen Manager, Whitehead Performance 416-665-2220

Welcome the forum, LSD is always a nice addition but 4:11 rear end and a 4spd will make the car great for off the line, acceleration will be terrific around town but on the Hwy your rpms will be quite high and your mileage will suck, it will be a fun car to drive though. If you could locate a 5spd that would make the car more versatile. Show us some of the other goodies that came with the car, gotta love NOS goodies.

Shiite! What a horror story, how much money have you lost? I don't think I have heard one good review of that company yet. Really sorry to hear this, if it is any consultation you may have helped many other Z owners from making the same mistake. Hopefully you can cut/weld and hobble something together that will allow you to get your car back on the road. Would be good if you could post some pics.

Looks like you've put the work into your plan, that sounds pretty complete, looking forward to some pics.

I believe to original hard fuel lines were 8mm or 5/16" they may be alright but probably better to go up to 3/8" just in case and replace all the flexible lines as well just for safety sake.

Did you ever do a build thread on the first EV conversion? Let us know when you do the Tesla build. I haven't looked into very much yet but was also thinking about the next Z project being Tesla powered. I guess the gear selection is all wires? Mount all the batteries in the engine bay?

That is very strange, they would be useless on 240z. The only bolt that might be Imperial is the seat belt anchor bolt. Nice kit though.

Okay dumb question here, how does a wheel adapter or spacer affect the spring rate?

I didn't know that, thanks.

I'm sure the all Japanese and all Nissan had some effect on the price but at $70,000 the egos of the final 2 bidders has to come in to play as well. I think you're right about a Z with a big block 572 but not because it is an American engine, it's because it's just not a good match for a Z, it's simply too big, too heavy and not at all in the style of a Z. The RB26 on the other hand fits perfectly with excellent power to weight ratio for a 240z and is very much in the nature of a nimble sports car. Dumping a monster engine in to a small light car although kind of fun in some ways will never result in a well balanced car that is capable city traffic, hwy cruising and occasional track days. I'm sure the owner/builder of that 72 240z/RB26 spent close to final price finishing that car, maybe less if he did everything himself, maybe more if he paid someone else to do it. I think the new owner paid a fair price considering.

Your turning it back in then out right? That's best way to break up rust, screw it back in almost all the way, squirt your penetrating fluid down the hole, back it out again. I may take a dozen times of back and forth, you can also alternate with heat and quenching with penetrating fluid. That is probably the worst bolt to remove at the front of the engine, you're probably the first person to do it since the assembly line.

Rota's are a decent wheel for the money, not sure I would put them under the stresses of racing for too long but they are great for the street and occasional tracking.

Years ago I chased that idea around and couldn't find any good pics so went to the craft store and p/u a couple of pieces of black construction paper and cut out the patterns and taped them in, it gave me a very good idea of what would look like. I didn't end going with that look but I'm glad I did it.

Batches of leather always have some variation so I would guess it would be the luck of the draw.

If I had to do it over gain I would have used Interior Innovations for both applications, the ebay door card skins are okay and it's not that I'm displeased with them but they are just a shade lighter the transmission hump leather, I'm sure no one would even notice if I didn't mention it but you're asking. As I remember now they weren't offering the door card skins at the time I bought the ebay skins.

Well it looks like a design from the 90's, kind of Honda like, I can't say I've seen very many Z's or other 70's cars with that "tuner" style of wheel. But hey, if you like them use them, wheels, regardless of where they are made have to pass a certain standard so I'm sure they are safe to use they and the price is great for a new wheel.

If you have time and access stitch welding is great for overall rigidity.

Looks great, your guys are doing nice body work. Be sure to mention to the guy doing the paint prep that the body line just above the rear wheel well lip is visible all the way along that panel, it's real easy not to notice that and end up with it mudded over.

I'm not sure anyone is trying to say a 5/8th bolt is better but it certainly works just as well, it's simpler, will always be easier to remove and for what it's worth less expensive. As much as possible the threaded portion should be kept to a minimum with the shoulder of the bolt extending almost the entire length of the shaft hole. Considering how soft the steel is of the OEM pin a grade 5 bolt should be fine. @gnosez, what grade of bolts are you using?

I did that alternative heater core in my 77 280z, page 8, post#180, https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/60126-just-what-the-doctor-ordered-1977-280z/?&page=8#comments