grannyknot

Hey that looks pretty good, are you going to sand the clear coat? I paint in a similar sized garage so I know how tough it is to keep things clean and find enough room.

I think you might have a set of the original after market head light covers, quite rare and quite expensive. Great car with lots of potential, take lots of pics and post them.

Or you could replace all that rotted metal. https://kfvintagejdm.com/shop/datsun/battery-tray-floor-battery-tray-datsun240z/

The aluminum sheet is about an 1/8th inch, those 3 pieces of aluminum grab the inside bottom lip of the air dam, they're what is really doing the holding. I'm pretty happy with it, don't know if I would change anything, it's much better handling at high speeds now, before it got kind of floaty. I should note I made 2 separate versions of this splitter/support and I think the pics are mixed together, the first one a bit too narrow and the center section didn't go far enough back to stop the turbulence. The second version has the center section that goes back and under the engine.

Oh it's normal, it shouldn't be but they all seem to be like that. I lined up the wheel well lip with the lip of the air dam then used a Dremal type grinding burr to carve into the air dam material so those 2 lines meet up then smoothed it out with sand paper. Also you are going to find when you get the car up to speed that the front lip, the part that is suppose to be diverting air will basically fold under from the pressure of the wind. It won't be doing much air damming and it looks pretty silly. Most of us have built some kind of support to hold the front lip from folding back, my Xenon air dam front lip support looks like a splitter but that is its secondary job. I also had to glue a stiffener to the horizontal piece that flows back to the rad. It's a shame because it's one of the best looking air dams that are available but it comes with some real drawbacks.

SEM is about as good as it gets for rattle can paint, I've had lots of success with it.

Really you should start with the transmission and figure out what rearend is best for it, if you don't want to do the graphs and math just look up which 280z had the 3:90 diff and that is the transmission to look for. Of course you can mate up any trans with any diff but if they are not in a range where they can work together you can end up with some strange combo's. Years ago I dropped a Ford 302 V8/T5 trans into a TR6, (I knew nothing about gearing) first gear was totally useless, I had to start off in 2nd gear to get any use out of it.

invincibleextremes setup is going to be the easiest and most cost effective by far, he's done all the engineering for you.

There is room, once you have broken the contact between the halfshaft and the diff the halfshaft can telescope back toward the hub.

I'm sure they have to meet some safety standard so they're probably fine for the street, just don't track the car with them, I'm sure we have all heard those horror stories.

You can trade your old not working clock in for a rebuilt electric clock for about $110, https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/45-5201

A 4:11 rear end will give you nice quick take off and good acceleration but at cruising speed on the hwy your revs will be quite high, noisier in the cab and the mileage suck.

Vibrant sells straight from their site and the quality is excellent.

No, they mount in the stock position, the mods on the diff support just lower the diff nose.

Sorry, I assume everyone has an RT mount for the diff. and as Madkaw suggests, it is possible. I modified the front diff xmember so I could drop the front of the diff 3/4" and then stacked some washers under the snubber. The pics below were in the mock up stage but you get the idea.

You want the lowest total angle so the dashed line but remember you can also tilt the diff down a couple of degrees as well with shims. Try to align the trans and the diff so they are as close to parallel as possible, the driveshaft angle will split the difference.

I've never seen that thread before, so much good info! Thanks

Welcome to the forum, you might get more eyeballs on your problem if you start your own thread dedicated to the problems you are having, some members may not click onto an old unfamiliar thread. I'm not the best here to offer advice on your situation but I had something similar once and it turned out to be a clogged fuel filter near the tank and a lot of rust and debris from the bottom of the tank plugging up the pick up tube. The car stalls from fuel starvation, the crap falls away from the pick up tube and the car starts again. Good luck.

Just remember that it is brazing not welding, all metal should be clean, like Tig clean, it likes to have a gap between the pieces being joined of about the thickness of the sheet. You want it blob up on the inside of the seam as well, it will take a bit to get use to it but it has some real advantages, just to find out how versatile it is I brazed together a piece of sheet metal to a piece of aluminum and stainless steel to that, certainly not something that you would use often but I was impressed. Also, you can use 75Argon/25% Co2 but pure Argon gives you a better result.

I agree if you are using steel wire but this last winter I had some good success Silicon/Bronze Mig wire, melts at a much lower temp and is plenty strong. On 18ga the parent metal will always break first in a bending test, it's also good the have compressed air there to cool it. I wasn't able to run a bead with it but spot/butt welds and jumping around on the panel until all the spots were joined up kept things very flat, really easy to grind as well.

I did, -sigh-

A super light flywheel is great for fast take offs and certain types of racing but can be problematic for street driving. The engine will back down quickly when your off the gas.

Wow, big project, looking forward to the progress.

Have you thought about keeping it and swapping it into your 280z? LSD is lots of fun coming out of corners.

If you say so, it's been too long for me to remember, so a 50lb lift would let the hood come up easier but will also resist a bit more when you go the close it.