grannyknot

When it rolls off the ship please post photos, we would love to follow your build.

Trev is a master body man, this vid is good but there is another that I can't find at the moment that does the whole thing with a torch and a wet rag. If I find it I'll post it. Here it is,

That's good to know since I have a 510 that needs paint this winter. Tamco gets very good press on https://www.autobody101.com/forums/index.php?sid=f044bf1f351a02abe241234902095df9 there are a number of professional auto painters that answer questions on that forum.

I use to use the red pointer lasers until I found these digital inclinometer , they make the job so easy, they are down to $20-30.00 now.

I had no idea the stock angle was so much, trucks sometimes have a lot more than that but generally they are not going very fast. I always shoot for anything between 1 degree but no more than 2.5 and as parallel as I can make the trans and diff. RT's mount is great in that you can shorten or extend the snubber to find the right angle, the transmission is a lot harder to point than the diff. Now you're going to laugh but it works very well, the bmw trans is different that the Datsun 5spd so I had to have room to lower the diff to get a good angle. This rear cross member started out as just a stop gap solution so I could test the angle and keep the progress moving but it worked so well I welded it properly and it has thousands of miles on it now.

Archives rule!

I believe Nissan still carries it.

There is a reason why every rust product that has phosphoric acid in it says " wash with water". You can use acetone to displace the water once it has been washed, you can also use methyl hydrate(wood alcohol).

Both por15 metal prep and Rust Mort use Phosphoric acid to convert the iron oxide to iron phosphate, Rust Mort has some thickener in it so it stays wet longer but the are essentially identical. You can't let the product dry on the metal or you will have to re-coat it with the phosphoric acid solution to remove the white powdery layer then it has to be washed with water, hot water is the best. Then dry it as fast as possible, wipe off most of the water with a clean cloth, compressed air or a paint stripper heat gun. Then prime it or paint it immediately, if you see white powdery areas don't bother painting it, you need start again. It doesn't matter how many layers of paint you spray on it you will never cover that efflorescence. I have had such mixed results with phosphoric acid that I don't use it anymore (anybody want a shelf full of phosphoric acid products?) Now I use citric acid, much less toxic, doesn't stink, very cheap if bought in quantity, it takes a little longer but after it has removed the rust and is washed it doesn't rust as quickly, it also won't burn you if you get some on your skin, just wash it off.

Most polyurethane bushings use the outer metal sleeve of the original bushing and slide in with a firm push so maybe you should call to get some answers. Any pics you can show us?

Silverminemotors hand brake cable is exactly the same, very frustrating to get under the car and start fitting the cable and then find out that it doesn't fit. Basically you have to reach up to the body bracket with long slot screw driver and pry the bracket open enough to fit the larger diameter. Stuff like this could easily have been modified during the manufacture of the cable.

Drew, how does the II Much eliminate the odour, is it filled with carbon?

Why do you want disc brakes on the rear? I ask because any kind of brake on the back is still only get the set amount of brake fluid pressure that the M/C and stock proportioning valve will allow and that amount is just right for the stock drums. Or I should say just the right amount for the rear wheel cylinders, it is engineered to be a balanced system. Putting disc brakes on the rear with everything else in the system being stock could lead to the calipers not applying enough pressure making stop times longer or they may lock up the rear sooner than the front which really is not a good thing. After having tried all the usual brake combinations that are popular for 240z's I can say with conviction, If you want better brakes then remove the stock balanced system and replace it with another balanced system, a system that has been designed to work together.

I would start at the wreckers for a carbon canister, just about any car from the 80s. Can you plumb the tank breather up to front and into the air filter? You might install a ballcock valve on the breather and close it when you put the car away in the garage and open it again after start up.

You could just use some plumbers compound on the bleeder threads but Speed Bleeders take care of that and allow you to work by yourself. Sometimes a light rap on the caliper with a small hammer just before cracking the bleeder open will dislodge the little bubbles and allow them to be bled away.

Welcome to the forum Nicco, is the car running now, is it drive-able?

If the nut is still staked in place then either it wasn't tightened fully in the first place or the splines have been wiped off. Remove and investigate, I hope I'm wrong but I can't see how the companion flange can move independent of the axle unless it is one of those 2 explanations.

Or a roll bar for the shoulder straps.

@SH4DY, nice colour!

Sheesh, what an ordeal! You seem to be taking it very well, if someone had ripped me off for $2k I'd be driving out to see him with a baseball bat. Unfortunately, if you don't know where to look for the rust in these cars it is easy to miss it but I bet you won't ever make that mistake again🤑 Those are ambitious plans you have for the engine and suspension, I hope you will continue to update this thread as I'm sure there are many of us that would love to see how she turns out. Cheers

Welcome to the forum, looks like a good solid car, interesting seat covers.

That's great, so much easier to weld on a rotisserie, you can stitch weld on the outside lip of the frame rail or drill holes along that lip and plug weld to the floor pan.

Unless you already have the car stripped down to the shell don't bother with a rotisserie, although that is the best way to install them. Support under the wheels will work as long as there is no way she can roll off, welding laying on your back sucks but can be done.

I'm getting some big clunks from the rear end and would like to ask you guys before I tear it down. R200 3.90:1, OBX limited slip with all the corrections done to it with about 6,000 mi on it, axles are from a 1983 ZX turbo. As you can see in the video the P/S axle is the worst and also quite a lot of movement on the driveshaft. The OBX was installed by a professional differential shop, the wipe pattern was perfect and bearings and seals were replaced at the same time.