grannyknot

I believe it is suppose to be applied to clean freshly sanded metal, then 2K epoxy prime, it should have complete instructions on the label.

I think your A pillars will be okay with some tweaking, and it would be easier to just replace the skin, the place you may run into trouble is the front frame structure under the roof skin just above the windshield and between the A pillars. The biggest problem with trying to bend that back is if it isn't perfect the windshield seal will leak. If you do find a good roof skin for sale you might try getting the whole roof structure then after removing the skin you might be able to use that center front piece to replace your bent one.

Almost all left hand drive cars have the driveline slightly over to passenger side, it allows the driver more room. On the same note most differentials are off to the P/S as well.

I think the 5/8" bolt is a good alternative but it's main drawback is the shaft of the bolt rotating inside strut/hub housing so you really need to grind out that notch and install the anchor pin as you would with the stock pin. As for the torque spec. I would check what the specs are for the 5/8" bolt you are using, you can get those bolts/nuts in grade 5 and 8.

You might want to buy yourself a small roll of Silicon/Bronze Mig wire and try it out, it's about the same cost as regular Mig wire these days but brazes at much lower temp than steel wire so there is less chance of warping. It grinds so easily that it is not a big deal if all of your welds are big and globby For sheet metal it is about all I use anymore, I have never brazed anything thicker than 18ga with the Sil/Brz but when testing it the parent metal always breaks first not the weld. You can use standard 75%Arg/25%CO2 but 100%Argon gives you better results, the technique is a little different from steel wire Mig but it is not too difficult to pick it up, on butt joints it likes an air gap the same width as the thickness of the sheet metal you are joining. Your progress looks good.

A buddy of mine made this one, this thing is the Hammer of Thor, it also helps to keep the torch on it.

I have bought there rear quarter panels for 2dr 510 and they do very nice work but I had to wait 2 months to get them. With everyone locked down they have so many orders they are barely keeping up with demand.

If you want a very special one of a kind Z there are thousands of those glorious sounding F1 V10 engines that were used in the 90's, 800-900 bhp 16,000-18,000 rpm. There lumped in the corner warehouses gathering dust. You can get a Honda F1 V10 for as little as $12,000, the Ferrari V10's seem to be going for $80-90,000. That would be my dream build. For those who miss the beautiful music of a V10 try this,

Questions about how it came from the factory will be answered quicker on ClassicZcar forum, lots of "original" guys there.

That was 5 yrs ago and the car is still sitting level.

The S54 was put into a 240Z, the front fenders are off in that pic I posted so maybe that's why you didn't recognize. The stock Datsun harness was taken apart, cleaned and all the crap was removed(seat belt buzzers and such) then a number of extra lines where installed for electric fan, upgraded headlight wiring, stereo system. The Stock BMW ECU was sent down to Kassel performance, they deleted all the extra programming that gets in the way and installed a better tune. S54 engine wiring harness was altered some what but is mostly stock, both harnesses are largely separate except for the additional fuse box that was installed to handle the new circuits. The first bmw engine I put into the car, an S38, that used a Mega squirt II for the ECU.

If you like European their a few of us here that have swapped in the BMW S54 ///M engine, only slightly heavier than the stock engine, 343 HP in stock configuration and some guys have pushed them into the high 400's. I love mine, scares the crap out of me every time I floor it. The whole car weighs 2600 lbs with me in it.

Sure you can do it, anything is possible but how much does this V12 weight? That would be my biggest concern even with an additional frame built within the unibody. Even with the stiffest springs the front to back weight ratio is going to be way off, you'll be plowing into each corner, the rear end will be light. It might look and sound very cool but I can't imagine it will be a great driving car.

Maybe it's on the end of the old hatch strut that you removed?

Hoping you get it right is a risky way to proceed, once you get it in the ball park you need to start measuring. Even a piece of 2"x2" cut to fit snugly between the tail of the trans and mounting plate of the diff will give you visual reference and a flat surface to start measuring from with a dial or digital inclinometer . This is just the most recent discussion on driveline angles but there are many more by searching this forum.

I swung my motor over to the right and up under the dash.

Why would you assume the side to side is the same as an L series engine? The stock engine does not sit dead centered in the engine bay, it is slightly off center just like the diff. If you drop a V8 in and center it in the engine bay your angles are too much to get a vibration free drive shaft regardless of whether the crank and pinion shaft are parallel. The diff is limited in the amount it can be adjusted, you can make it point up a little or down a little, it can also be lowered a bit too, that's it. All other adjustments has to be made with the engine/trans in order to decrease the angles and make them parallel. No other engine but the L series was designed to go in that engine bay so when drop something different in there you have to compensate in many ways to make it work. Okay, you have to take some photos and post them so we can see what your situation is, 3.9 is no good, you could get away with it at low speeds but the vibrations are going to be bad at certain speeds and might be dangerous depending on the road conditions. I have tried to figure out how I could point the diff to the left or right but have never been successful so I have always had to make the engine/trans do most of the adjustment.

Gottcha, I didn't notice how low you had to go to take the pic.

Does the Sivermine kit really have the motor mounted that low?

Their mount was actually designed by Ron Tyler and it's usually called the RT mount, the Laine's just produce them now. The mount is 3/4" off center because the R160, R180, R200 diffs are mounted 3/4" off center, I don't know if your R230 diff is or not, hopefully it is or that will really screw things up. All you can really do in a case like that is move the sbf over 3/4" so that the trans and the diff are basically inline then start tilting the engine/trans and the diff until they are pointing parallel to each other. I've done this many times and a digital inclinometer makes the job a lot easier.

This about the only way you are going to get at that pocket, if the car was on a rotisserie it wouldn't be too bad at all but if on its wheels, well it will be a pain. I would like to know how the water got in there? That's not an area know for rust.

Great to hear.

Most of the guys on this forum don't have L engines in their Z's anymore so posting it on https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/forum/4-z/ will probably get you more response. Good luck

Thank you, they have some nice couplers and U joints, their kits are a bit pricey but that's why we make our own

Well you have 50/50 chance to get it right the first time 😉 Not much you can do but use your best judgement, again you'll probably be fine either way.