blue72

I know that the N/A ZX gasket blocks a lot of ports, but the earlier 280Z L28 gasket doesn't. I did a side by side comparison in the past, before I owned an N42 block: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125186&page=7 I don't have any L28ET head gaskets though.

Speaking of pirate4x4.com, one of my favorite sections of the site is the BillaVista Tech Garage. One crazy guy compiling extremely detailed DIY articles and Tech Tutorials. http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/ http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PDFs/ Tube bending, gear ratios, AN fittings, fuel cells, welding, trailering a vehicle and everything in between. http://www.japanesenostalgiccar.com A place for us old J-tin nuts to be ourselves

I've got a NV4500 in one of my trucks, and first gear (6.34:1) is unusable unless you're climbing something pretty steep. Hitting 5K rpm in reverse at 7 mph is always fun too. Even the higher 4.02:1 first gear of the NV3500 is pretty deep for a car (depending on its use). Like ezzzzzz said, they're truck transmissions. Nigh indestructible as long a you're using the correct fluid and it is circulating like it's supposed to.

Mmmmmmmm..... Plasma engines.

MAG58's previous owner and mine must have been related. While reading his post I remembered that my PO had somehow stripped one of the cylinder head bolt holes. How does that even happen? The cylinder head bolt was just hanging out in its hole, loosely jangling around.

:-oGood thing that big bumper was there to straighten him out.

Took about 12 seconds. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/SGS02

The FS5W71A weren't sold on U.S. cars as standard equipment. You've probably got an FS5W71-B. It's a Nissan transmission as far as I know. The BW units were automatic transmissions and the T-5 wasn't introduced on a Z car until the early eighties. The rear diff was manufactured by Fuji Heavy Industries though. 280Z manual trans rear diff was a 3.545:1 R200 The four speed manual trans actually had deeper first and second gear ratios than the 5 speed models. That could translate into slightly better off the line acceleration for a 4 speed equipped car. The horsepower issue is another letdown too. Do some research on the differences between SAE Net and Gross to see what I mean. IIRC the 170 gross hp 280Z makes about 136 Net hp. That's about 112 hp to the wheels when it was new. Really pushing it would have given a quarter mile pass in the 17 second neighborhood. Good news is that you'd be toe to toe with a Prius in a straight up race.

What fortuitous timing with the video camera. Anyone notice that it's a rare vinyl top too?

Hmmmmm...... PO swapped in an L24E block, chopped the pickup tube in half and made it rear sump with flexible rubber hose and two hose clamps. Cracked (and subsequently repaired with wood) cowl induction fiberglass hood. Really accented the power of that L24E too. A set of mismatched 3 and 4 screw SU carbs with completely different needles front and rear. Timing cover held to block with non-metric fasteners. Distributor shaft not even remotely close to being positioned correctly (dizzy was about 180 off). Pieces of lower timing gear floating in oil pan. Piece of front cover floating in oil pan caused by using an oil pan bolt that was too long. Original metal fan shroud trimmed down in random spots for no apparent reason. No spacer between fuel pump and cylinder head. Three 205-75-R14 and one 195-60-R14 Too long mag lugnuts interspersed around all four corners along with two non-mag (tapered style) lugnuts. 2.5" to 1.5" to 2" to muffler to nothing behind the rear half of the car custom exhaust system. Custom red and black Velour upholstery. T handle shift knob wedged on with duct tape. Gas tank vent cut off and plugged with JB Weld. That's about all I can think of off the top of my head.

Reverse threaded studs and lug nuts on a car that originally came with standard thread? That'd probably confuse / deter the stupid criminals.

Saw it on Jalopnik this morning. There are a couple of different people claiming the car as their own. One of the more credible stories says it's usually garage stored while the owner drives an SUV to/from work. He had some valuable equipment in the SUV and parked it in the garage with the GTR outside that night. Says he's had a number of good laughs at all the people concerning themselves with it because it's not like its an Enzo, just an 80K car. Supposedly at the dealership now.

Do you own a service manual for your car? Sometimes it takes a lot of careful tapping to remove the drums. You see plenty of early Z cars with broken off cooling fins on the drums because of impatient previous owners / mechanics.

Just look at the 280ZX section here: http://geocities.com/inlinestroker/ratio.html

Some of the cheaper tools will work just fine (I have a Harbor Freight chain hoist and blast cabinet myself), but I personally like having the peace of mind that comes from a lifetime guarantee in case I break any of them. Believe me, I have broken and will continue to break some tools even if I am using them properly. Oh, and be sure to buy a breaker bar. You don't want to remove very stubborn bolts with a ratchet because you could eventually weaken and break the ratchet teeth.

Naw, you just have to remember that the racing exhaust system added about 600 or so horsepower so now it goes from 0 - 100 in only 5 seconds.

Turbo? Be sure to read through this thread for some inspiration: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127863

Been done. Coupla' times. Easiest way is just to purchase a set of ITBs that are direct replacements for the sidedraft carbs. More complicated = doing what you stated and welding in injector bungs, more fabbing, etc, etc...

Just got my copy yesterday, congratulations!

Crazy coincidence that I dug out the NES last night. I still had the original Nintendo cleaning cartridge kit, but I couldn't resist blowing imaginary dust out of some of them. TMNT 2 arcade version FTW.

Yes, it was an optional gear set, or could have come from another Nissan vehicle (720 for instance). You can always pop the diff cover off and read the numbers that are stamped into the ring gear, or count the teeth on the ring and pinion then do the math yourself. I've currently got a '78 5-speed mated to a 3.9:1 rear and I quite like it. Offers good acceleration, and I'm taching 3700rpm @ 75 mph which returns surprisingly good mileage.

If your tire size is what you say it is, then you could have a 4.38:1 rear end ratio. 205-60-R14 + 1:1 4th gear + 4.38:1 rear end @ 80 mph = 5000 rpm

This is why I miss living in Arizona, because there were BAP auto parts stores all around Maricopa county. No such luck here in Southern Utah.

Wow, that sucks. Tried Simple Green on the interior? I hope you can find another d-side window soon too.