Nismo280zEd

Well no dice guys. I've got some gremlins somewhere. Above mods are done to my board. Red wire from dizzy connected to pin 24 (IGN) on the wired loom Green wire grounded with other MS grounds Pin 36 (brown wire from loom) to coil neg Confirmed coil is getting power while cranking Confirmed the VR is giving a good signal from the red wire (oscilliscope) While cranking MS shows no rpm jumps Ever trigger angle from 0-90 has been tried along with the +22.5 and +45 additions. No spark.... at all.... ever. running 024s13 code holding ign at 2 like MS manual recomends. Both tunning pots full counterclockwise like recomended. I don't know, Next semester starts Monday and I was really trying to get the motor running before then so it didn't sit for another 6 months. Any ideas on things to check and try i'm all ears. -Ed

I bought it from (victoria british) Black Dragon after my stock 280z burned up in the fire. I run a zx booster and master 83 model i believe. I'll take some pics probably tomorrow when i cut it apart.

For auto carpet, no... it's not normal. But I also have holes in my floor board so it gets wet, I've had a leaky windshield for the life of me can't find the leak (till recently) Had a leaky quarter window, etc. This is the reason i don't spend money on good carpet. It's just a cheap synthetic carpet. When all the leaks are fixed and the car is water free I want more of a heavy duty inside carpet.

you do realize about all spacers are AL, and just like AL wheels... your supposed to retorque them after so many miles to avoid the above stated problems. I'm just sayn'

Yeah I saw that link in there and check out there site this morning. If my shop can't match the price I'm going to contact them. I never thought about having a white drive shaft before. lol. Thanks for the info though. -Ed

I honeslty didn't even think or searching for this last night. Thanks for the link those seem to be AL though. -Ed

I was actually thinking about this in the shower last night. (I'm strange I know.. I engineer things in the shower) Anyway... I think I'm going to try to take mine apart as I have a reaction disc problem with mine. -Ed

I think the above case is a bit of an exaggeration. My Z caught fire while I was driving and nearly burned to the ground, but I'm not afraid of the car or driving or fire. I've had a bad experience with spacer before too. I broke a stud off of Ross's adapters. It happens. I didn't even know it, I was working on my car and notice a missing lug nut. I see guys drift on 1" 1.5" and somtimes larger spacers all day long, all season long and you know what breaks? The differentials, CV's, transmissions, motors, etc. I think your car is going to look sick man, don't worry about the naysayers. Get your wheels balanced and enjoy your car. Post pics up when finished too!!! -Ed

Mods/Admins feel free to move. I'm in the process of swapping in s14 rear subframe into my 280z 2+2. The S14 uses a shortnose R200 where the Z uses a long nose. There is a difference of about 8" probably or a little more, I already have a 2+2 so I can't use a longer driveshaft and I have to get a custom one made with the OEM yolk, etc. I called my guy today that I always use, he said I'd have to bring it in first before he can even give me a ballpark price quote. I'm curious if anybody has had a drive shaft made before? I go to school full time and money doesn't fall from the skies. I'm hoping this is only gonna cost me around 200 bucks. Nothing fancy, just a longer OEM type steel tube shaft, OEM yolks, etc. Just a longer shaft. Any ideas of cost would be greatly appreciated so I know if I need to save some more or not. -Ed

One sweet project. I'd love to go for a ride one day.

lookn good!

I used to have this problem with my weber carbs. Plan and simple heat soak.

I took out some 300zx seats last night while working on a 1990. They are nice looking seats and you can easily runs harnesses with them. Not too heavy either. They do look wide though, i'd check the width. NIssan to NIssan should be fairly easy to put in if the width is the same.

I'm doing the rear subfram from an s14 for several reasons. Widens the rear track by 2" Comes with disc brakes Still uses the R200 but in shortnose form. Stupid easy to work on compared to the factory Z rear suspension. Dirt Cheap to obtain CV's are on them too You gain alot more ajustability too if you do a little fab work. Easy to make it slide or stick. Alot more aftermarket availability too. I got my complete subframe for 100 bucks. Hard to beat that Also... very easy to go 5 lug if you want easier to find rims. -Ed

I've used Upol in the past. German made and comes in cans almost 12 bucks a can but you don't have to clean anything up afterwards.

I Always just go down to the local carpet supplier here and give them about 40 bucks and I get enough black backed carpet to do two cars. It lasts about 1-2 years. I don't run padding either and it holds up well to the sun. It's boat carpet I believe. I've been thinking about upgrading to some black indoor carpet like burbur or something robust like that.

Be careful with those. I had them on my Z, they rust, they also rattle a little.

Yeah I can come pick it up this weekend actually. I get off around 3:30 on saturday.

Well I do all my own paint and body work so good PPG paint and materials will only run like 600. I used to daily drive my Z when I had webers on it.. but 13mpg was enough financially for me to stop driving it. 240sx is in need of a head job the seals are old and it's starting to burn some oil from the vavle seals. Other than that she's in great shape even with almost 160k on her. Still reading 200psi across the board. I talked with the wifey tonight about it, looks like I'll be able to hold onto both for a bit longer. I guess I"ll just have to wait and see how the next 5 months pan out. I miss my Z so bad though.

Need some help from some wiser folk or atleast some people with a different mind set. I've got two cars right now. A 95 S14 (240sx) lightly modded, exhaust, intake, alarm, paint, and the kouki front end, as well as SE 5 lugs and SE wheels. I've also got my Z. 78 280z 2+2 w/ MS 3.0 running MSnSE about to get an S14 rear subframe swap (better suspension, disc brakes, etc. ) interior is kinda stripped, has front seats and carpet and a dash, speakers and radio. No heater or A/C. Working on repainting it. I'm hopefully going to be attending UofH in August which is a 50 mile commute if I drive. I don't need two cars as I'm trying to cut out some debt and save for a house. My plan is to sell the 240 for about 7,5K (yeah I can get that, the market for 240's is retarded right now) take 2k or less and put that into the Z then through the left over at a credit card and pay it off. My question is... would you daily drive a 30 year old car for another 2-3 years? -Ed

Awesome guys, thanks for the infor... ready to try and tune in the VR signal now.

So i'm in the process of finishing this up but it's been a while and I want to make sure I have it right. Before I was triggering off the coil (fuel only) then I went to HEI 8pin (couldn't get it working properly) now I"m going with the vb921 driver and using the VR sensor as the trigger. I'm curious if I should have C30, C12 installed as I have a jumper for C30 and C12 said only install if triggering off the neg of the coil... so do i no longer need it? I also have jumpers for D1 and D2 looks like those are used only for triggering off neg of coild as well... so leave the jumpers or remove them all together? Sorry for all the questions guys. Just to clarify... 3.0 board with MS1 MSnSE wanting to use the vb921 to control ignition w/ a vr sensor. -Ed

so school completley at my lunch since august.... got some free time trying to get all these MS projects on the road again. I'm soldering mine right now to do VR instead of the HEI i was running... in the MSnSE insturctions it says TSEL-VROUT or VROUTINV for inverted... i thought I remember something about we were supposed to use inverted on the Z dist but searching I can't come up with anything. So i'm going to solder to VROUT but if i could get some confirmation later that would be great too. -Ed

The above is ok only on a sealed surface. If there is even a pinhole in the steel you will have a miserable future as the bondo slowly absorbs water through that pinhole eventually causing a HUGE mess. If you want to go that route... evercoate makes some water proof and water resistant fillers.

I originally came up with the ideas as I wanted a more modern motor for faster wiper speeds. My priorities were getting the water off the windshield reliably and quickly. I was driving my ex's 94 accord at the time and looked at the wiper motor in it. This is the motor I used on the Z as it is almost a bolt in upgrade. The same screws and nuts can be used from the z motor. the mounting pattern is just slightly wider. The electrical is painfully simple to do on it as well. As for unfinished... I don't see it that way. Mine has been finished for close to 4 years now. Intermitten, no I didn't care about having that so I never bothered dealing with it. My wipers turn on when I want them to and off when i want them to. It's really not a big deal for me. If you have questions about the wiring or want pictures feel free to PM me or email me as I can provide the information. Please do not be confused though and bash my modification. I was the only one in the Z community as far as I'm aware that ever attempted this. And I was 17 when I did to boot. Thanks, -Ed