Nismo280zEd

the momo seats posted above are the exact seats my friend has in his 240sx. Very nice fitment grips you nice and tight and has some thigh support too. I would recomend a removable steering wheel though for a frequent driver... they are hard to get out of in his car with the big OEM steering wheel.

http://www.365motorwerks.com/browseproducts/F1Spec-Type-3-Racing-Seat.HTML ^250/piece 500/pair 100 shipping 600 for 2 seats to your door Q: Are they FIA Approved? A: They are in the processes of gaining FIA approval. Q: How much do the seats weigh? A: Around 12lbs. Q: How well will I fit in the seat? A: The Type 1 & 2 seats will accomodate up to a 40" waist, where the Type 3 will fit up to a 34" waist size. Price: $250.00 There ya go guys.

i'm about 185 at 6'1 and the seat is a nice fit. however it is snug, like a racing seat. Fit very similar to my friend mom seat. But his seat is such a B*tch to get out of.

me too. I love the car but if she can pull that kind of weight... time to pay some bills.

http://www.houston240sx.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25067 600/pair I'm in houston so shipping is free lol. I found the 500/pair on ebay or a honda forum, I can't remember which. That was a couple weeks when I came across these. I'm not as tall as some of you but 6'1 can still be tight in the Z. My friend mounted his rails on an angle so the farther you go back the lower the seat goes. Ingenious idea, solves the problem of the wife driving too. she's 5'4 -Ed btw... these are approved for racing. They are working on basically DOT approval, forgot what the rating it called but that's the equivalent.

Sanding by hand is not good for flat sanding, you will end up with wavy panels when they are poished. Flat sanding requires a block or something you use as a block, not just your hand. Hand sanding is great for tight curves and corners and the true artist though

me too but i just can't cough up 1500 for seats.

Yeah it's an infinity based off a similar platform as the 240, they share many common parts, brakes, diffs, have beefier axles, etc.

agree with above posted... I've actually read some bad things about those seats in collisions. However... this company... f1spec... they are actually working on getting their seats approved which would tell me the construction is up to par. Plus you can find 2 seats for about 500 bucks if you shop around http://www.365motorwerks.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=310

I go for boat wire, has higher standards than auto. http://www.tiewrap.com

looks alot like mine except i have more things shaved and less motor lol

Nissan improved the quality of the rust preventative tacktics over the years. In the 70's they were just starting to play with them, now they have 30 years of this under their belt. So yes.... there should be less rust each progressive year.

just join a 240 site, you can pick them up cheap

I paid 100 bucks for a complete subframe w/ diff, axles, brakes But i'm also the owner of TexasNissans.com and I'm very involved in the 240 world...

Actually I already have flares, I'm trying to fill them in with some 16x7 konig rewinds lol. -ed BTW... where did you find the studs? I want to get some to weld mine in to the frame. Also do you have pictures from in the hatch? I curious to see what you had to hack up for didn't have to hack up.

I'm doing this same swap just saving up for it. I measured from hub to hub to hub on my s14 and hub to hub on the Z. Just swaping it out will add 1" to each side. So in total it is 2" wider than the Z rear end. -Ed

just fyi... the SR and KA transmissions are interchangeable, you just swap the bellhousing.

I used to daily drive mine. It was a b*tch to keep it running when i had an apt and no place to really work on it, finally I went MS on it, she ran great till I blew a piston ring... swaped in a spare motor I had... ran decent enough for me to get to school and work.... then wiring harness problems shut her down. About that same time I recieved a free 95 240sx so you can kinda guess what happened... haven't driven my Z since 06 now. I miss her badly and i'm trying to get her to DD status again as the 240 will be my project fun car since parts are dirt cheap for it. -Ed

This is in my 240sx, and I have a spare set of axles, however I just rebuilt mine and they were in good shape.

Well... just wanted to let you guys know... Still running the welded diff in the car with no probs. Jeff... I'm still gonna come by and get the spares from ya... school is kickn' my ass right now though. -Ed

does it crank via key? or you using a jumper to crank it? If not... check the clutch safety switch. Check fuses, check wiring to injectors.

sounds like an expensive part lol.

I run a welded diff in my 240 and found that running zero toe upfront dramatically helped me turn. I also run about 1.5-1.7neg camber all round on the street. Works great. Just wanted to say I run similar settings after much trial and error and they work great.

damn.... what an idiot.

I was under the impression the spindle was tapered on the s14. I haven't taken mine apart to verify but according to the FSM pics that's what it appears to be. EDIT... just looked for myself... i don't think it'll work.