Nismo280zEd

I've even melted the plastic conduit under the hood, route your wires away from the heat, use some shielding and a good "sheath" to protect your wires.

can you use the z31 front hubs to put on an S14 ?

Jeff..... If I have any problems for this one with welds breaking loose or what not I'll take you up on your offer. I put her all back together yesterday and polished the rear cover. Gonna give her a go. We have a beach meet Not this but NEXT weekend (9/29) down in Quintana... that's gonna be her trial, then i'm gonna take it apart Sunday (9/30) and inspect it. Hey Jeff... come to think of it... I have another spare pumpkin R200 shortnose do you have the other "inerds" to make another diff? Shoot me a pm on price I'd like to have a spare when this one goes. You guys are making me nervous! lol. Dang... wish I woulda thought of this before hand I woulda let you do it. EDIT Just for clarification this car will be the car I learn to drift with, thus the welded diff, not for drag or auto x

pretty cool actually.

damn... did you use a fork lift to set it?

I have a 2+2 and you can get the weight down relatively easily. My280z 2+2 weighed in about 50 lbs lighter than my friends 280z with aprox the same amount of gas. But my interior is gutted. bumpers gone, A/C heater all of that is gone, lighter radiator, etc. I eventually came to the conclusion it's cheaper to put a motor with more hp and tq in it lol. At any rate, biggest thing that will help you is LIGHT wheels and tires. Keep your rotational mass down. AL flywheel, light clutch, titanium valve train components. AL brake upgrades, not steel. Fiberglass hatch, replace your glass with lexan. fiberglass hood or CF, don't waste your money on fiberglass fenders or headlight buckets, not gonna save you much. Oh yeah... scrap off all the sound deadening in the car, go through the wiring harness and remove all unescessary wires. You'd be surprised how much wires weigh. Good Luck! -Ed

Yeah... I thought about welding on a "cover plate" basically of some sheet metal, but I figured whats the point... if it breaks it's gonna break through that too.

It should still be pretty balanced. There is a bolt on both side of the Diff... those pictures are both sides. But I'll let ya know how it goes... After it's first hard session I'll take it apart again and inspect the welds.

lol yes the gears were cleaned prior. That's all the heat i had and I turned the wire speed down. I was running on 2 to try to get more penetration. It's not all pretty and perfect, but I did it myself and after beating on it prior to welding, I don't see those welds breaking anytime soon. I added the bolt diagnol to help transfer the loads and reinforce. This diff is going on my bone stock 240 except for exhaust. I'll be lucky if it sees 180 ft/lbs. It's not gonna see 400 ft/lb turbo drag launches or anything like that. Just going to allow me to practice getting sideways.

ok... here are the "revised" pics She looks better than before I think

Ok guys... I fixed it.I beat on it with a 10lb sledge and a metal chisel and only one weld broke off, all the others held true. I Added two bolts and cleaned up some of the "pigeon poo" . So with the revisions of the bolts and more metal I think I'm good. I'll post pics tonight again.

I used a punch and got the stub axles out pretty easy, but ugh.. the carrier and ring gear don't want to come out. I don't want to take the front input off as I know that requires special preload when you bolt it back together. This is a shortnose R200 it's for my 240sx. I guess i'll do some googling see if i can find how it gets assembled. Edit... got it... used some rubber as a bumper and a crow bar and a little tapping she came right out.

Yeah I'm sure I could pay some body to do it for me but that kinda defeats the purpose. I'm not learning anything or getting any better if somebody does it for me. I have a welder, I have grinders, hammers, etc. I'll just do it again. lol. Then when I do one next time I know exactly how to do it. As for heating the metal... I just heard it puts less stress on it. Not so much helping in penetration. My MIG will do 1/2" on a single pass so I'm sure the amperage is sufficient just my welding isn't. I've never welded something like this before. I usually do pipe or tubing or sheet metal. This is my first time with all these curves and valleys and stuff. It's fun to learn on it!

Yeah stick weld woulda been alot easier but all I have is a MIG. I'm gonna try and break it apart and put some bolts in it. Seems to be very popular.

after my car burn't on the side of the road the first time, I keep two in the car. The one i had in the car was not enough and it lit back up, had to watch her burn till the fire dep came. I think that day will haunt me for the rest of my life. I can still smell it and it's been nearly 4 years.

it's just metal, I can take it apart, grind on it and lay down some nicer beads. Underneath all the "pigeon crap" were some good beads, I filled in the entire space between gears and the Pigeon crap is just on top. Either way I'll be takn' her apart today and cleaning it up for round two. This time I'll heat the metal. And if it breaks later on i've got a couple sapres lol. -Ed

Yeah I found out after the fact, I shoulda heated the metal first. To get the stub axles out just use a puller? Gonna clean it up and do it again.

This really looks like crap. I'm not happy with this at all. I might add some more to it just for "cosmetics"

I don't suppose any of you guys could ask your upholstere what glue they are using? That's the only problem I'm having is the glue not sticking. I've tried several different kinds, about to try an epoxy based glue next.

Ok.. the pics turned out really crappy, I shoulda taken more. But this is what I got... It's really hard to see but there is a good bead between the teeth, your only seeing the top. I welded all 4 spider gears front and back, and to the carier on two sides front and back. I don't know... compared to that one posted Mine looks like ♥♥♥♥ lol.

yeah I went outside and took the cover off and saw how it spins, I get it. Just finished welding mine up. All I have is a Mig, So i sprayed silicone spray on stuff I didn't want the splatter to stick too as well as wiring brushing it during welding. I did what I could. This was my first one. I'll post up pics later as I'm not sure if i need to weld more or not. -Ed

is it supposed to be welded on the sides like that too? or just the spider gears? in that photo, it doesn't look like the wheels will turn at all.

defn' use a block to wetsand black!!! the hardest color to get to look flat and not wavy!

Why is it better to use built in ignitors than use the VB921 off MS? We plan to run wasted spark with COP on the 911, from the diagramns i have off of the MS site, you only need 3 VB921 not 6 like mentioned here. I don't see the advantage of having the built in ignitors honestly it seems like more of a hassle when trouble shooting time comes along.

YES it WILL bolt directly up. When full race did their VQ swap they actually used an FWD block because of some of the locations of items. I think the motor mount was a tad different. The oil pans are different as well.