BleachZee

If your turbo car is a 2-seater, then you'll need a 2-seater non-turbo driveshaft and the corrisponding flange off the differential. Your turbo Z has an R200 diff. A non-turbo R180 flange might not work so look for any R200 (maybe a 2+2 NA 5-speed). Keep the rear transmission crossmember from your turbo car. Turn it 180 deg and reinstall it in the car. It'll all bolt up. If you have a 2+2 turbo then just make sure you find a 2+2 non-turbo driveshaft. I did the opposite swap in my car. NA 5-speed to T5. I later swapped for a turbo engine. The clutch setup will be fine.

When my turbo engine was poping out the intake (just as 2psi of boost came in) I checked a lot of things like was mentioned. In the end it was a boost leak. It could be any number of points on the intake. I found several. The cold start hoses were all new, but still with new clamps they leaked a little. I elimiated some, disconnected the carbon canister, and found that I had not properly installed the injector holders so the seals were leaking right at the manifold.

The VIN numbers were not sequential. I have a faxed list of the numbers somewhere at home that I got from Nissan a few years back. I should get it online one of these days. ZXR's had no options though. Does your car have all manual windows, locks, manual steering, and a 5-speed manual? (black interrior) that's a start. Those wheel covers were not 'ZXR' specific wheel covers. They were for all 280ZXs that did not get purchased with alloy wheels in 1979. Most people opted for alloys and a few luxury items though.

Are you sure? Your car has the side pillar trim, tail lights, hood vents, and bumpers of the 1979-81 cars. It could be a 1982 if all of that was changed. Frank has a 280ZX type-R!!! LOL nice ZXR Frank and here is my car 1982 280ZX 2+2 turbo 5-speed, t-tops, 250,000 miles on body. (2nd engine in this one) black/grey interrior, CRX seats, 18x8 wheels

Its rare because it was only found in one year 280ZX with a rare 4-speed option. It is sought after only by very few. It is not what you call a high demand item. Its just the tallest gearing you can get in an R200 now except for maybe a few NISMO units that were sold a while back but are NLA. If you have a lot of torque and are going for a high top speed that is the diff you want. As for me, I've got the stock 3.54 and I'm going to a 3.7 Stock tire size and going for less than 300hp

For that BOV, this the auction description it says: spring is adjustable using your boost controller. What does that mean? I thought a BOV was adjusted internally and read manifold pressure to open.

I thought only the person who posted the ad has permission to mark it as sold. The same thing happened to three of the four ads I placed in the last two weeks. The first day it shows up fine with the price. I check it the next day and they say sold. Once relisted though they are keeping the price and not changing back to sold again

It is weird to run an early 80's engine in an early 90's car. But the L28et is cheap and easy to repair and maintain. My L28ET was almost free. Bought a running turbo parts car for $500, used the engine as is, sold almost $500 worth of extra parts from the car. SR20DET are not that cheap. not even close. But it is a 'better' engine in its design, technology, and potential power output. The Megasquirt engine management will definitely help update the L28ET. The L28 is also a lot heavier than an SR20DET. Interesting swap though.

post something with a Z in it... If a Honda hits V-Tec on the highway, does anybody notice? ...does anybody care?

The 2+2 is about 8 inches longer in the middle of the car so only your gas tank/tail light wiring will be longer... and by 8 inches. I don't see a problem there. $1700? With that kind of cash you're well on your way to owning an RB25DET. Its a waste on an L28eT. L28 is a fun CHEAP turbo engine for a good 300hp. Beyond that its pointless unless you're one of those guys who just likes to have the "orignal" engine in there. You'll spend way more money for less horsepower than an RB is capable of.

I think I found a product like that. JB weld style but it said it was for exhaust manifolds. I used a bit of it to hold in an oxygen sensor in my headers that I had put on the NA engine. It too burned away after a while. I then had a shop weld on the O2 flange and it lasted for years. (never failed, but I took the engine out)

ya, send an LSD up here anytime. Even just the LSD clutch pack out of one. I have an R200 to put it into. I'll pay you for it. Send two. I have another R200 I can give to Mr. 81 Black turbo oh, and I once saw a red 1988 300ZX Turbo. Whole car, ran but had electrical problems. Guy wanted $1000 obo. Very, very tempting but I had no money... this was last summer.

a little too much optimism there. I've been looking in the yards in Washington and I have some other Datsun guys who are not into Z's checking for ANY turbo 300ZX. I have not found one single 87-89 turbo in 7 YEARS! not even one that already had the LSD removed... they are super, super rare up here and the northwest is just crawling with Z-cars and old Datsuns That is why the price has gone up to the point where you can practically buy a new one for a little more

match the colored wires to each other. The white wire and the "other" color that are left over are not needed.

My impression of my turbo is it has very good strong torque. Seems to not keep pulling and pulling harder at the top end like my NA did.... but maybe that's because the NA had a lot less torque so I noticed more pull as the rpms went up. At the same time I am running a 2.5 exhaust, stock downpipe (crap) cat, resonator, and chambered flowmaster. Maybe the exhaust is a little constrictive but its nice and quiet for now... need my custom downpipe to come back from the shop and then I need some money for a new exhaust. 1st and 2nd pull like crazy, 3rd seems to tame up a bit but I'm going almost 80 by the top of 3rd anyway... I've not taken it to 120 and I don't really plan to. No need... 1st and 2nd almost always the wastegate stayes closed... I hit 9psi and the POV flutters which acts like a boost leak and my power drops considerably. 3rd and 4th seems to hold pressure. The wastegate maybe opens slow and can handle it. Some times it holds 6, 7, or even 8 psi. I did an 8psi pull through 3rd with my friend in the car. He said it was pretty good. He has a 2001 Jetta running 20psi and claims only about 220hp on that car. What rearend are you running? I assume the stock R180 3.54?? I'm running an R200 3.54 now, I want to switch to a 3.7 which I already have. (open)

I can hold half throttle and get about 5psi steady. It never drops. my wastegate has the 'stuck closed' problem more often then not. thank goodness for the factory POV! but you know this.. hehe... still driving the Z as I'm having problems with my Pulsar so its not my daily yet.

Awesome! Good job on finding that leak. You also went from an auto to 5-speed swap in this process, right? So that alone will yield some better acceleration. I'm glad you're happy with it. so that BOV is working good for you?

works for me. Just hit QUOTE, then on the next screen copy the text. Go to your thread and paste that into your reply.

After my turbo swap I've only done one check on milage. 1982 280ZX 2+2 turbo, T5, 3.54 rear, heavy 18's 225/40/18 22 mpg on a tank of misc driving that's about the same as I used to get with the 3.9 rear and NA engine with lighter wheels

it is durable, but what other transmissions would you want to compare it to and why? The Nissan L-series transmission and the 280ZX turbo T5 are the only transmissions that fit the L6. Or are you talking about the VG series 6-cyl?

well, swapping a steering crossmember is a cutting and welding process, correct? Or do you mean air tools for just unbolting something? I don't have a welder to do that kind of work.

so you're saying the 1979 manual steering rack is not a bolt-in for the 1981-83 power steering models? I wonder if there is any difference in the cars with a power assist rack like mine? I see a '79 in the yard and I'm thinking of going manual steering. My rack is leaking like crazy.

when I had my leak at the base of the injectors I could not tell at idle. I had full 20 pounds of vacuum and I even sprayed carb cleaner right on the base of the injectors with no change in the idle. It wasn't until boost hit that the seals moved out and let off air. I only found out by a wild guess and changed the injector holders.

O2 sensor is the same and the head temp sensors are the same. I think the injectors are a big deal. First of all, the ECU thinks they flow more so at any given time frame they are open the turbo injectors will flow out more fuel than NA ones... not just at peak output. Your problem sounds like a boost leak. Do you smell fuel after you get into boost and hear it pop? I did, and when I would enrichen the mixture it seemed to help but I was just dumping more fuel into a leaking pressurized manifold. I had several leaks. One on all the hoses on top of the intake which I don't think you have, one in the lines goines to or from the carbon canister. I got rid of all of that. And the third at the base of the injectors. Did you get new O-rings for your injectors? Do you have pics of how you mounted them? so ya, I think I'll return my A/F gauge.

I meant to ask you about your air/fuel guage. I hooked mine up and it never has worked. When I connected my new O2 sensor I crimped on a pair of stock ZX connections. One I hooked the ECU to and the other I plugged the gauge into. If that doesn't work for the gauge then how could it work for the ECU? the last little light by the rich section stays on solid no matter what... even with the signal wire unplugged. It was that way for a couple weeks and now the gauge is just dead. Do you think I have a faulty gauge?