yo2001

Or you can get a RX-7 with straight pipe. Heheheheh. I can get mine to shoot a foot of flame which I run it rich bewteen shift.

I'm running BPR7ES-11. Which is a step cooler than stock. Seems to be fine.

hey Bob, I got a set of JE pistons RB26DETT forged pistons. I'll sell them to you cheap.

send the pic to me DAW. my email yo2001@charter.net I don't have a website, We'll need to ask somebody else for that. Thanks

Hey DAW, it's it 23.5mm with a bronze bushing? If not then I can bush the rods make up the difference. If you can a pic of it, send it to me. I'm guessing it's like FJ20DET rods. Those are real stout

I think that'll all depends. Different turbo will flow different amount of air with same amount of boost. I guess you got to put it together and tell us what kind of power you can put out You'll have more HP than me in mt N/A L6

F54 came on late 280zx which is 81-83. F54 came with web supports which suppose to hold the boost better but I've not seen a hard proof of that except the fact all GT turbo cars used F54 blocks.

HP calculator only game me 164RWHP So I need 100 shot of loughing gas to hit 230RWHP. Stock injector is only good for about 200HP in my caculation. That's at 3 bar.

big as in 22mm wrist pins? I can mate with my RB26DETT pistons to make a hybrid motor. I can always use stout rods Bob It's worth a try. Wouldn't it be a ideal rods for a force induction rods? hint, hint

touchy subject there I say go with P90 if you all ready have the head ready because that's what the Nissan intended. They didn't make a new head just to waste money on development. N42 probably work but why use an older head with higher compression for a turbo motor? I can understand if you only have a N42 head. Do what you want because this subject will never be solved since I know there are ppl here who prefers N series head over P series head and also there are ppl who believe P series head is the best all around. I believe P series head is superior because it just doesn't make since for Nissan to make a new head that didn't out flow the older head. But still I'm running E88 with large valves in my 78 N/A.

Is it 12 point star? I think that's what I used to take them off. 12point socket. I can't recall the size.

really? I need a set of 140mm rods.

I'll give you mine.lol since LJ gave me his. you guys are talking about the wastegate actualator right? Not the wastegate itself.

I don't think that's right.

I knew that about no vacuum on WOT. but on L28E the vacuum is hooked on ported vacuum so the vacuum increace as the throttle opens up? I least thought that's how is is on the Z car. Where is your vacuum advance hooked up to? on the intake or in front of the throttle plate? the GM vaccum advance is hooked up to intake vaccum to save gas on interstate.

Thanks, Norm. That's what I needed to know. I'm running my car rich, and 19-20 deg at idle with no vacuum adv. I read your post on zcar.com and I notice you have your vacuum adv. hooked on your intake vacuum rather than ported intake because you said you you get less timing under throttle and more in idle and WOT. I need to get my timing and fuel straight it. Thankd Norm again. I guess I better not turn my motor up to 7.5 k rpm

Do you know how to weld Aluminium and titanium? You'll need a tig to do that. Thant would be sweet though

you cheated j/k I wish I had a DOHC 24v I-6 with twin turbo. Hey, the christmas is coming up, I can cut some of the limbs off the bottom of the christmas tree so the crate of a motor and trans can fit.

Well, with EFI, you need a correct volt from negative coil wire so my car wouldn't crank without one.

My MSD tach adapter went just between the 6A and the coil. But My car is 78 so it might be different. I also had to use two diodos things to get the tach working.

Bob, I lost the cam card It was in my another car that I had but it got towed. So the cam card got towed with it. My cam LSA is 107 accoring to the manufacture. I was not concern about how low it was. I thought 220 psi was pretty high with the cam that I'm running. But who knows, that's why I popped the question. I figured that norm's car would be a good measuring stick to see if my compression was too high or not. Anyway, my car is crazy fast now. Well, at least for me. And haven't exploded in last 250 miles of HARD driving so I guess I'm okay. for now

I think cam timing got something to do with psi #. but I can't be sure. My car took more than 5-7 times to get the cylinders to fill up and I think that was because my car is set little retarded. I was only getting 185psi at 5 turns. That kind of explains why retard cam do better on top but not enough on low. In low rpm, there is not enough piston speed to pull the air in without loosing the cylinder pressure (late intake valve opening, early exhuast valve opening) This could be complete BS as I'm just speculating and come up with a thoery. lol BTW, where is Norm? Anyway, if anyone of you guys know your compression ratio, compresion psi, and your cam profile, post it here please. I like to know where my engine sits and also how cam can effect the compression test result. It'll be good for everybody as a reference.

No Bob, 274 with .488" lift. That's why I was wandering. I think your cam is the one that's one size bigger than mine. So, I was little concern

I was wandering what kind of psi are you getting from your high comp motor? I just need a reference point. I'm pushing 220psi 10.3:1

I say 7k rpm with stock fuel and ignition components. I've pulled 7.5krpm before in my last z I had but it was not a happy car the next day. Oh, yeah make sure there are enough fuel there on topend.