yo2001

you can never get one big enough. lol I bought a 55 gal. 6HP oil less from Sears. It's pretty big for a hme use but if I had little bit more my, I would have gone with 100 gal with dual stage twin piston. I would recommend getting a biggest one you can get, like you said, it'll be a pain to have to wait to get the tank to fill up b/w a job. Also, I would recommend oil lubed engine. It's quiter

I got 230RWHP in my 280Z...in my dream Let me go hook up some funny gas in my car and we'll see a stock L6 puts out 230HP

Looked like that honda was a B16A swapped I was too busy watching the orange Z no the background

How would I get the gas out from an engine after flooding the crap out it? I can't get my car to crank now because my EFI flooded my engine (EFI is not suppose to do that!) I've clean the plugs (they were all wet) and checked for sparks and both are good now, (timing is good also) but I got to get the fuel out from the inside of the engine before I can get the car to crank. So how about it?

Anti-backfire valve may be?

I want 230HP. At the wheels I'll be happy to get 200HP out of stock EFI on my car. I highly recommend EFI. But unless you get an expensive engine management, there are not much adjustment you can make to make it run good on stock EFI. IMO Mine has to be set rich in the mid range with an enrichment circuit and 3 bar of fuel pressure to keep up with fuel on topend. (I find that a most drivable) SU's a great carbs, it's hard to beat a good set of carbs with a antient analog EFI. Not an impossible I guess.

again. I think. I have not taking them out yet but I looked through the exhaust ports and the exhaust valves were white like a snow. I think my plugs were in wrong heat range (denso no.11 I think) and it was over heating the exhaust gas. but the header is not white at all just the valves and the sleeves in the ports. I'm not running lean as much as I know because the intake valves were wet and have some carbon deposits. Also, my A/F ratio gauge is over 1 v. at WOT. Well, could this be from 1. running high octane gas all the time (93 octane) 2. too much timing. 2-3 deg over the stock 3. wrong heat range plugs 4. all of the above.

No word can describe my feeling about that turbo except, That's HUGE

Hey Dan, LJ and I are about to have alomost same spec Z. overall weight about same, about same cam, LJ on P79 and me on E88 with larger valves(that's about same as N42) so we'll see and we'll let you know the fact.

What was the reasoning behind using alcohol? man, I type bad Anyway, an alcohol suppose to have the better heat transfer so the water/liquid can stay cooler under the hot weather condition. I could be wrong though

I'm running SX performance. 0-80 psi I think. 50-60 psi range. no leak. that's good I guess I've heard that the aeromotive leaks but who know?

How rich is 1 volt though? I can't remember.

what is the 1.0v on the A/F ratio gauge equivalent to the A/F ratio? 10 to 1? Is that too much fuel?

The water has better heat transfer even the water becomes hotter than air. I think. So the effiecincy is still higher than air to air. I don't know much much heavier this set up is going to be but all alumnium, it won't be that much heavier. I guess I can use more heat efficient fluid too if I really needed too like water wetter??

The heat exchanger for the water to cool down and it's going to go in front of the radiator. My understanding of the a/w intercooler is that I'll need a heat exchanger/radiator in the front, an A/W intercooler that goes from turbo to intake, pump, switch, etc. Yeah, I think it's going to be alot of work plus money but I think it's going to be about even with air to air since the good air to air cost big time money and all the plumbings. I won't need much plumbing done because I'm planning to put the intercooler right by the intake. It'll get better response since there will be less plumbing to go through.

That would be a killer to use ice with cool the water down. I've alos told I could use aome alcohol to bring up the heat transfer of the water. I hope I get this intercooler set up working.

Should be stock. I had positive deckheight with stock flat top pistons.

Thanks Cody. Well, only thing I'm concern is the water pump going out. But that's a big concern I guess. I'll be running two fan on the heat exchanger so I'm not too concern about the water boiling over. My understaing is that the water has better heat transfer even when the water is hotter than air. (not too hot) Well, thanks

Bump. Sorry but I want some more opinions. Thanks

Ok, I remember that you are doing that now. Anyway, yeah, don't go crazy with the drilling. not worth it. I was told to really worry about the pistons pins and make sure they are not siezed. The floating pin supposed to be the way to go but there are ways to modify the press-in pins to kind of float so they won't seize. Are you going to rebuilt the stock spec motor or go wild and use longer rods?

no! you can't drill out that much you'll need more oil on the bottom end. I've read up to 2mm is okay. I drilled mine but I went just tad larger than stock hole. 3/32 inch I think?? I just picked out a drill bit that fits in the oil hole then got one that's one size bigger than that to drill out the hole. Why are you doing this for again?

I've seen a Z32 300zx with 350 in it. it was running like low 12's. but it was just weird

David, the oil passage that you are talking about is on the block side, there are too bronze(brass?) oil jets on the block. one in the center and one in front of the #1 cylinder bore. You can drill some out but don't go too big because you will starve the bearing.

Not in my heavy 280Z I done all that and still runs in 15's BTW 390's and 438's are the diffrential gear ratio

That doesn't sound right to me. I think around 2800rpm is where the full boost should be but who knows, I'm not a expert on turbos