yo2001

Me too. I'm thinking about three because I don't know where the 4th wire goes

It's simple. 1) Get a 95 maxima SE alt(125amp) or some other ones (300zx will work too) if want. Just choose one by ampage. (just get a core to match whichever alt. from junk yard to cut some core charge down) 2) Take the pulley and the trust brearing off the z alt 3) Take the pulley and the trust bearing off the new alt. (It might not even have a trust bearing, it can be part of the pulley) 4) Got to local alt. shop to get a shorter trust bearing to match the pully to the original location. Or grind the z trust bearing to get the correct height (make sure the trust bearing stays flat) 5) Get a 300zx alt harness from a junk yard too. ( I guess you should do that while you getting the core) 6) cut the T harness from z and put the 300zx harness, solder. 7) Just replace the alt. (it's a direct bolt on) 8) After hoking up the 300zx harness, positive and ground, turn the key to ON position and see if the charge light comes on. If not, swap the two wires from T harness around and see if the charge light comes on. IF not still, I guess you need to as for help. lol

You can get a later Nissan alt with small modifications. I got a 125 amp on mine.

Well, the head work isn't going to cost too much because I got an access to all the equiptments that I need to do all that. See, the thing is I already got the pistons (JE) here and I want to use them. Also, I like to run longer rods for better detonation tolorance and lighter rotational mass set up. (I think the aftermarket CM rods are lighter than stock even though it's going to be longer)The stock turbo is to just break in the motor and get it tuned in good until I can get a aftermarket ECU. I know I'm being difficult but I don't need this any time soon, I still got a N/A that runs pretty decent. BTW, I'm just bring up a new topic for a L28. I know it can be done but I'm not sure that it has been done on a street motor. I'm just looking for a opinion or suggestions. Thanks Ian

Well, blown head gasket, water in the head and the block, rusted cam, and couple seized melted pistons and rusted rod. Other than that, it was well worth what I paid for. I think I can save the block after honing and the rods would be ok after polishing (If I'm actually going to use them) The head is mint. condition, never have been shaved. I thank you for all that you do for me. It was what I was expecting so I'm happy with it.

Bump. Nobody is running open chamber head? Or altering the head?

I've seen a z32 V8 car. I'm in the South though

Don't forget to calabrate the torque wrench. I usually go 10% over to be sure.

Miata motor is pretty stout. I don't think it's far off from SR20DET. I know some turbo miata and they are holding together with reasonable amount of boost.

On turbo motor? I'm starting to build my turbo motor and I'm thinking about altering the P90 close chamber to an open chamber head. (I'm thinking about 60cc+) because I'm going to run small dometop forged pistons. (I need the clearance and good quinch.) What do you think? Also, Anybody running the copper beryllium seats? My plan is to use: 30mm wrist pin height pistons 137-138mm rods (custom) L28 polished crank Altered P90 (small port job, open chamber, SS polish valves, cooper seats, and small cam) Stock turbo (for now) L28ET ECU HKS IC

Vortex got a FMU for like $120 now. They should work.

Cam and compression goes together IMO. I personally did a cam first(274/480 from MSA) and the car does run faster than stock. I say couple tenth in 1/4 mi) Then, I dumped the compression but 2 points (from stock) and gain 4 tenth. and 3mph. (well, I did a small work on the head and intake etc) So the stock head will flow more with more duration and lift. don't go too big of cam and you'll might have some problem like an idle.

I got mine 280z to 134mph on GPS. On my speedo it indicated 155mph I got early z 5 speed with 3.90. spoiler and air dam is recommened

you got mail

No, it's not the wangan midnight's z. I got a pic of that. I got couple TT L6 pics if anyone here can host them.

you can't just bolt on EFI on E88 head because E88 doesn't have the EFI provision. I can be done with about a 2 hours of machine work.

where have you been?

HybridZ commendment #1 thou shall not mention which head is the best head before search and read these thread and other thread.

ATF is thinner than 20w. I'm just not well educated on the SU's or any other carbs. LJ, check the post in the ignition

you should have stuck with EFI Have you try to drop the fuel pressure down alittle?

Forbe or ark radio should have the diode. There are in B'ham. I can show you where they are located if you want to know.

Have your vacuum advance hooked up helps with the idle also

True but you know L6 got more main caps than V8? more counter weight on the crank too. Also with forged rods and crank, I think it'll be okay in higher rpm than V8

http://www.cruez.com/montgomery/mikekz_vs_yo2001.wmv try this and see if it's still working. That's my car going down the track. And yes, I missed the 3rd gear.