yo2001

I think I got what you are talking about installed on mine. (red one with metal sleeve right?) It was pretty easy to fit after I got the old bushing out.

I have no clue Scottie. I just got it from ebay for $35 free shipping. I thought that was cheap for a brand new heat exchanger so I got it. Must be from a NASCAR or something because it is huge. (17 x10 x 2 1/2 inch) What you guys think? Is that going to work for an air-water intercooler? It has inlet/outlet treads on each end. Also, did you guys notice the placement for dual fan

Thanks Jeffp for sharing his wisdom. I'll be taking the contact on my rockerarms (I got several dozen)to support my car habit. Chevy luv rocker sounds cool but I'll have too much lift and while alot of valve train noise.

I'll have shiny aluminium in my grill. It's going to look more like a oil cooler though. I'm not too worry about my alternator. I got 125 amp Maxima one on my car. And as my understanding, I couls used like 1/2 inch copper tubes to plumb the radiator to intercooler. (that sounds easy) Well, thanks for the reply.

I think I'm going to go with an air-water intercooler on my turbo motor. Everybody know, it's more efficient but I'm wandering how reliable would it be? Also, how long the water stays cool enough to be efficient? My car is going to be daily driver not just a drag car. I got a good deal on a large (17 x 10 x 2 1/2 inches) heat exchanger (radiator) already so I only would need the pump, intercooler itself, and reserve tank. What's really cool is that I can hide the intercooler under the hood so the car is not going to look as an intercooled turbo car. Anyone running air-water on 1G Z with turbo swap? I want your opinions. Thanks

I thought the rockerarm is forged and the contact is braised on I don't think the contact is forged for the simple fact that the cam is not cut from a forged metal. (Not that I know of. If it is, that's waste of forging) I think they usually design the the cam and its contact surface with same harness of the metal for an even wear. But who knows, It's Nissan I've hard taking the off the contact suface to re-braised the new one on. But I've never seen that before. MSA had single rockerarm for $12 a piece when I bought mine. Just be thankful that L6 hcame with 2valve head. (12 rockerarms vs. 24 rockerarms on DOHC)

the rods bolts are the the weakest link to Nissan I've heard. I'll say use ARP bolts.

I don't know how much the polish intake runner is going to hurt you on the gas mileage. It'll give you poor mixture, specially with carbs, which can cause bad gas mileage.

Just plain sick

twin doesn't spool up that much faster since you'll be cutting the cfm in half. (6 ports into one vs. 3 ports into 2) But I guess it'll al depends on how , and what turbos you'll use. James sure was fast. lol. I think he'll be the man you'll need to talk to. I think he'd twin 16G's. Supra is not a true twin is it? I though it was set up in sequential twin? Or it's it just 3G RX-7 that was set up like that.

porting exhaust ports doesn't help you enough flow for a street/weekend car to even bother. I've also told not to smooth out the intake too much because you need some texture to break up the fuel. Work on unshrouding the valves, and just smooth out the transition b/t runners and the seats

Looks like G nose with MSA airdam. I think you can manage that here in US

You would have to offset drill the small end of FJ rod 2mm (got to do that anyway since FJ rod has 21mm wrist pin) to fit the 22mm wrist pin of RB piston. I got a pic at home, I'll send it to you if you want me to.

What idle quality? Your car still thumping some potato aren't you? Anyway, smaller LSA suppose to give more power in high speed but loses low speed effieciency also because there are more valve overlap.

I don't think I have a ball to weld and drill a RB head to fit it on to L6. I would just use the whole motor instead.

71 is so like I don't think you'll need a RB26DETT to make it go fast on the street. How about just a L28ET swap? it'll be cheaper and less complicated. But I if got money to do the RB swap, I'm not going to stop you. I just be coming over your house and begging for a key

I've seen RB26 pistons and 140mm rods from FJ20's and L28 crank in L6. That's pretty cool.

His car hasn't broken in yet couple 7k-7.5k with me, that thing will make more power in higher rpm. bigger isn't better I was told. The right cam is where you get most out of your engine.

I've had that hapeend to me couple times. I got pulled over once because I was driving a suspicious car. WTF? It's white, loud and sporty doesn't mean I'm a criminal? And other time cop followed me like 6 blocks to my house. grrrrrrr.

No really, the AFM goes full open around 4000rpm. After that, it's not measuring anything. And yes, the stock EFI does go to pretty lean fast after 5500-6000rpm. That's according to my A/F gauge and I think that explain alot of torque loss after 5500 rpm. (plus the stock z didn't have enough compression) Are you talking about Mass Air or Air Flow meter??? I think MAF can measure more but still during WOT, the car does't used the MAF anymore, it's just rpm dependent The more fuel on the bottom end will give more torque and response. Also, when you are not getting enough fuel on top end, you can give more fuel to get some HP but the resistor is not going to do anything for the topend of the rpm because the EFI is pretty much wide open anyway. (adding fuel pressure will give more fuel on the topend because there are more fuel forced to push out) The boost is sensed by the FPR. 1psi of boost=1psi of fuel 1:1 vacuum dependent FPR

I got a resistor on my temp send unit. It does work but I doubt that it really give you HP, because the EFI will go RPM dependent after certain RPM around 4000rpm. But It allowed me to give more fuel in the lower end. However, more fuel meant bad gas mileage so I don't use it no more.

I pegged my speedo. lol Well, with 3.90 rearend and 78 trans combo. I talked to a guy who was racing me and he said he GPS me around 135mph. Not recommended

My girl friend bought me a set of 225/60/25 for my 78 last week from tirerack. It's a good set of tires. I'm going to get the front ones soon.

19psi with 700HP with what trim turbo? That's got to be a pretty laggy turbo. I've heard 60 trim with stage V on DSM and they were not boosting til above 4000rpm. That was only 10sec car.

http://www.emergent.com.au/200sx/ecudata.html#A1 ECU comparison