gnosez

Here's the link to the photos I had found in a roll of undeveloped 35mm B&W film from 1974 showing the body prep work on the BSR 260Z (gnose): http://s160.photobucket.com/user/psanders240/media/BSR-260Z-IMSA/b1505291-9291-4ce7-98b0-6f829b79ff6e_zpsb9179a63.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

The easiest/hardest thing to do: get your S30 under the weight limit and then add weight where you need it. It helps if you limit your own personal weight as well which makes getting the critical LR to RF cross weight so much easier. A driver tells his crew chief the car isn't doing what he wants/needs it to do. Adjustments are made, the car feels and handles better, the driver has more confidence, but those changes could have likely altered the pre-race set-up (like say corner balancing,alignment, tire pressure, etc.). Does the driver even know or for that matter care if the car is no longer 50-50 and within 5 lbs side to side? Hell, no. You start with a set of specs and go from there. If 50-50 makes you feel more confident you race harder so perhaps it's a chicken and egg sort of thing.

Of course they corner balanced race cars back in the day and to get to the holy grail they moved things that would likely result in a penalty or a DNF today. As to being on the pointy end of the stick.........been there and still doing that. With the new seat and the accusump, the race car will get corner balanced again to as good as it can be gotten (should have left the battery up front) and then I will drive the piss out of it.

Maybe I'll out of line here, but most of the S30 race cars run back in the day were never corner balanced to 50/50 and within say 25 lbs L to R and yet the drivers of those cars seemed to win races. I've had the opportunity to crew at several vintage races with former SCCA National champions who managed to not only finish a race but win them in cars with only 3rd gear, or bad brakes or one that was set up for a 165 lb driver but was driven by someone 250 lbs. Perhaps spending more time and money on instructions and seat time would allow you to improve regardless of what vehicle you might be driving. Just a thought....

Race car stance

I've had extensive conversations with BSR crew members who said unless you move the engine or add weight to the right front the car won't corner balance with a driver in it. The six piece custom exhaust made for the original 240Z number 33 race car would not fit in our 1972 because the tube for the number 5 hit the steering coupler. If one was to move the engine about an inch to the right and say an 3/4 of an inch back and would you believe the car is perfectly balanced. It would mean you cut, shortened, added to, ground down, and painted with the correct paint code both engine mounts and did a small alignment adjustment to the driveline.

twice stopped and let go 'cause my car is so good-looking and I'm so bad-ass (or did I mix that up?) actually once they found out where I was going so fast they let me go (airport and then overseas - DTRA)

I believe Rebello might have had a few made.

LD28 making 358hp@crank w/44 Mikunis running on 100 octane (might be able to run on 98 but why cheap it). Idles at just over 1000rpm with limit at 8500 and I drive it on the street (2000 miles so far). Those ITBs and a hot ECU and dizzy set-up would get me a few more HP, likely better mpg and a hole in my wallet.

The BSR 240/260/280 had a hole cut through the front rails and they inclosed a 1.5 inch bar in a welded on pipe.

A bad day at Black Rock.....but no injuries (5-point harness and Cobra racing seats)

John, Seems that Stacey is building a GTO replica using a 280Z and they asked for a set of our frame rails. Looks like a 600-hp engine could be installed. Here's what I got today from them - Thank you for supporting GearZ TV & Stacey David’s Season VII! Check out the season finale and new Premiere of Episode 13: “Supercars, Hot Rods and Go-Kartsâ€, Premiering Tuesday, July 16, 2013 @ 8:00pm/EST on SPEED Channel featuring Bad Dog Parts: Frame rail supports for the 280 Z car… and don’t forget to set your DVR!! The premiere will also re-air at the following times: Jul 16, 2013 @ 11:00PM/EST Jul 20, 2013 @ 9:00AM/EST Jul 21, 2013 @ 7:30AM/EST

Braking early in say the 2.5L and under vintage race groups and every little %^$#(& British and Italian sportscars will divebomb the inside of your apex. Having the car become unsettled at that point means you have more than likely lost the race. I watched the "lost" film done 42 years ago about Bob Sharp racing and Bob would do the same thing in C Production against the likes of Vettes, Mustangs and Camaros. His crew took the time to get the car to handle an early apex so he could get out in front of the pack. If you want to see the film and meet Bob come to ZCON 2013 (www.zccazconvention.com). Ask him how he did it yourself.

See attached

You didn't mention if you have either slotted the rear struts or added camber plates. This will give you at least 2 degrees neg and let you put some of the tire under the rear qtr panel. I first rolled the inner lip and then rounded the flat portion of the lip out to form a new lip. A very small but effective flare.

Has anyone kept track and plotted all the Tony Ds that exist in the body of one man? And the big grubs go in your ear! Didn't you listen during orientation?

We run R888s as rain tires until they become dry track tires on our 240 in vintage (225 is as wide as we are allowed to go) 275 Hoosiers for non-vintage events.

Just picked up my Potenza RE-11s in 245/45/16 today. Engine still at Rebello so I have no idea how they will do once i try them hard after a few hundred mile break-in.

Of course you could take some material off the back of the center ring though there isn't much there. A 1/4 inch might be all you need. more camber would help as well. I have CCW 16X8s and will be running 245s all the way around. I plan on making small cuts in the inner front lip and then rolling it. With 2 degree neg I should be okay.

Door windows cut from a sheet of lexan work fine for a temporary fix to the rain and trailer towing debris concerns. I just traced them out from an old window. I glued on a small block on the inside bottom of the window (level with the top of the door) to push the window against the upper door trim piece. Two pin clips hold the temp window in via holes in the door/lexan drilled once I got the window in place. Takes about 2-3 minutes to put them in/out.

Jesse - I have 5 or 6 for under $50.

280 stub axles

EXTREMELY DANGEROUS! There is no way for the shoulder belts to stay in the correct position/alignment without some form of hole/guide. In addition where are you attaching the shoulder belts themselves?

So if I read this right the 3.3L makes 300lbs@5100 and 360HP@7600rpm respectively. Dave emailed a dyno sheet today for my 3.2L NA build- 304.7lbs@5100 and 356.7HP@6800 I have a son working down under and I really like the place but why would I need to go halfway around the world to get the same engine results at a higher price.

All 180 ft of it....