m4xwellmurd3r

biggest problem i can think of would be.... Aren't SBF's pushrod engines? i don't think there's any way in hell you could get a dual overhead cam setup on an SBF if they're pushrod engines. I know that there are those modular V8's that are SOHC and DOHC, but as for the older 4in bore engines (302 right?) you're kinda sol

i saw a dynochart for a stock 78 280z. it reached peak torque at around 2000 RPM (basically right off idle) and never dropped till around 5k, and it wasn't a hard drop either. it stayed around 134lbs of torque the entire time, with a peak hp of about 139 or something like that (googled a bit and found this site) http://www.geocities.com/~z-car/specs/ apparently they should make 149hp at 5600rpm (makes sense, the plate says 170hp under the hood) and should make about 160ftlbs of torque at 4400rpm (and the torque curve is pretty flat starting off idle) I also found this http://www.datsuns.com/Tech/engines/dyno-l28-stock.gif from the looks of it that dyno must be on an old engine. So i think the L28 makes up for it's lower power by having a flat torque curve that doesn't drop harshly, right? anyways, even for a bike engine, i think it could work. It'll be gearing hell to find the right combination to make the bike actually be able to make use of the power it has though.

my 280z has 225x70x14 (stock rims) and there's no rubbing at all on those, but i don't know how that translates to a 16in rim.

haha. it looked like the blue guy tried to stay flat instead of rolling. In the process he flattened his face! Midget wrestling at its finest.

i'm not to sure about the L26, but in my 280z (l28) the yellow line (which i assume is the shift point) is at 6000RPM, the redline is at about 6400RPM

that's killer. I wish i could go check it out or something haha.

found an article http://www.autoblog.com/2007/12/04/hyundai-releases-more-details-about-genesis-including-logo/ Yeah, that's freaking insane. and some info on the coupe via Wikipedia

lol that's not too bad. with my 78 it was like this oil change fuel filter fuel pump spark plugs plug wires cap/rotor brake master cylinder water inlet lower rad hose steeringwheel AFM fuel injectors water temp sensor after all that im' hoping it passes emissions. oh also changed all the fuel lines I still need a new radiator though. plus side is no rust. But mechanically besides the rust, that's not that bad.

And don't forget, 1fastZ has the most killer Z out there, and it's a 2+2

also, make sure the Water Temp sensor is testing right. if it's shorted out along the wire, the injectors wont fire and it'll never start. make sure you clean all the contacts. if the water temp sensor is corroded, it'll put out such a high resistance that the car will flood out. check to make sure the injectors are pulsing when you're starting the car, and check to make sure the water temp sensor is putting the right values to the ECU. you really shouldn't have to bleed the fuel rail. in a fuel injected system the pressure is so high that it should force any air out of the system. I'd say make sure that fuel is getting to the cylinders. if it tries to start with starter fluid, that rules out a spark issue for the most part. but we don't know if you're getting fuel. I'd check the injectors first like MJ said. if they aren't getting power then maybe the water temp sensor has soemthing to do with it (i don't remember if having the temp sensor off cuts the injectors off, but i know it won't even attempt to start with it shorted/unplugged)

agreed. at first the whole EFI mess scared me, since i have no background with working with EFI systems. but the L-jetronic system is so dead simple, that after a bit of poking around i figured out a large portion of how they work. they are very simple, but finding exact problems isn't the easiest at times. I would start checking things like plug corrosion to the water temp sensor, check the thermotime switch to see if it's funcioning, check the cold start valve to see if it's functioning. Corrosion is the biggest enemy of Z's. On several occasions i've found that corrosion was the culprit to my cars issues. Definitely get the EFI bible. You'll worship it once you realize how helpful it is. I got my 78 running pretty well considering the issue it has/had (wrong afm, bad injectors, vacuum leaks, a bcdd that's probably failing) needs a new rad, but because of that efi bible i got it running pretty good. i was able to diagnose where the issues were coming from for the most part, how to test the components, and where to test for certian things. instead of getting frustrated, just follow the bible and your car will let out a loud joyous roar haha. black oil is dirty old oil. but as far as i know, as long as it's just oil, no sludge, no metal, no water, no gas, it's fine. just drain it out and do what Daeron said. actually, do everything he said. he gave out a ton of good advice.

i'll bet it was the GAS TANK! XP judging from the level of rust, I'd say the real tank is gone.

actually it looks like there aren't any subs past episode 6 in english....

or if you use Bittorrent, you can go to Animesuki.com and get the torrents and download the subs from there. I'm not sure if any group is activly subing it, but i hope they are...

You know, I doubt his dad expected him to do a wheelie like that at all. also, it's not like he was doing anything bad. the kid was in a proper harness and such he probably built the rail himself. My dad's friend owns a sandrail shop that builds insanely nice stuff, so obviously, his rail is even nicer XP they don't have to cost a lot to build. most of the time they'll use modified VW front beams and a VW type1 drivetrain.

those water cars are nothing more than steam rockets. they work by superheating the water while under pressure, so the water is unable to boil. as soon as they open up the valve, all the water instantly turns into a high powered steam rocket. as for the link posted up above. It sounds like nothing more than electrolysis. I did it back in my freshman year of highschool. Pretty simple to do. take 2 electrodes and a couple test tubes. have the testubes in the water filled 100% with water, with the electrode tips in the tubes. hook a battery charger to the electrodes and kick it on. after a while, the hydrogen and oxygen will build up in the tubes. I can't rmember which one is attraced to which electrode, but the hydrogen tube will make a nice loud pop with a flame, where as the oxygen tube will simply put out the flame when you light it. Takes quite a while to get anything out of it though.

8 milliamps across the heart kills. HIGHLY doubt the coil would kill someone. the resistance of the human body is what keeps you from getting hurt. Unless you stuck the wires into your body i doubt it would do more than shock you. speaking of shocking people. i think a long time a go my dad's friend or my dad said that you can shock someone if you spin up a VW magneto a bit and wait for someone to pick it up or something. not sure how that could work in one, but whatever XP

and that's why until my z has a turbo engine, a almost black blue paintjob, upgraded suspension all around, ZG flares, watanabe's, all new interior, etc. I will stay single. XP cause Harumi steals my money way faster than any real girl could hahaha. Besides, I'm WAY to picky about girls, and the type of girls I do like are so rare that I'm better off not looking for one anytime soon haha (and i'm only 19, i've got many years before i should worry about that stuff.) But to build myself a car that i've wanted even before I knew I did, that comes now.

I agree with that. You don't want to be putting extra stress on those old parts like that unless you want parts to fail.

it worked for buying my 78 280z. The guy was asking 1200, and i took a look at the car, it wasn't running quite right (it needed a new afm, a little bit of fuel line, and new injectors, it should pass emissions now) the interior is garbage, but everything basically works. it doesn't leak or smoke, and the body is like 95% perfect, with 95% rust free. I said I have 900 in cash, but that's all i have. He said he couldn't take any less because he needed money for some bills, and couldn't work on the car like he wanted due to work. If the guy really needs to get rid of it, Tell him that you only have like 2100-2200 cash, and that's all you have, and if no one takes it by the deadline, you're still willing to buy it.

Ok, i tried painting it. That car has some weird freaking paintjob.... (fixed it again) http://i27.tinypic.com/34jbrpj.jpg

10 minutes in photoshop fixed it I think.

I had a question about that clear box. is it encasing the carb completely, basically making a huge pressure box? For carb setups, isn't that normally the best way to set them up so everything operates at the same pressure or something like that.

whoa o_O that plexi box looks really mean on there.

Hah, man they really beat on that subie. A subie in the air is freakin sick.