FlatBlack

Nah, I love me some MegaSkeet. The car cranks right up with the push of a button, There is tons of support, many people are running it, I'm very happy. MS3 Seems very promising as well. I'm probably going to get rid of the Zed31 once I graduate, and get a Tundra, Tacoma, or a Z71 Silverado as a daily. I need a truck much more than I need two Zs at the moment. I love the Z31 and it's been great, but after comparing S30 mods and Z31 mods I think I'll just keep to the simple stuff. If the S30s get too rare and lose part support, etc. I might move on to S14s or something. Who knows. I'm going to need a house, and a boat, either a Mastercraft or Malibu, maybe even an Air Nautique 220 or something, so I'll probably just stay with one project car while I get my life sorted out.

Awww... Happy birthday, she's a keeper!

Well... The car has to be running to turn up the boost haha In order of priority: * Get the MS to fire the injectors again [i'm really hoping it's just the Q1 and Q5 FETs], replacements should come in early next week * Install Dropping Resistors, THEN turn the PWM off * If that doesn't fix my restart issue, try out the Magnecore wires * Make sure I'm not getting resets * Fix my wideband [getting fixed erroneous readings, going to try and play with the software like Fexicoker suggested], might have to buy a new sensor >_< * Once I have proper AFR reading again, get the car tuned * Buy my buddy's 35# SVO Ford EV-1 Injectors [i'm already getting upwards of 100% Duty Cycle on the 260ccs * Finish my Exhaust [Currently 2.5" DP to 3" SS straight pipe ] * Try and get 10 lbs out of my T3. * Take it to the track and break stuff Find $2,000 so I can do all of this stuff: Future Mods: Throw the P90 from my L28ET on the Flat Top F54, Meth, bigger terbeaux, EDIS???, MS3???, LSD [neeeeed to ditch the one-tire-fire], 240sx tranny, find a new shell because Flatty is a bit too rusty, drive up to IU to school Bawb's Merc with my non-crossflow awesomeness. Super Long Term Goal: LS3/T56 on a new shell. Depends on where I'm at in my life in a couple of years. [i graduate with a Bachelors in May] I'd love to have a Terbeaux street car and a LS3 track car , something incredibly Epiq like Clive's red car.

Slight update. I didn't have any work or anything this weekend and Arkansas played an early game today [We thrashed Auburn ] so I pulled my charge pipes off to paint them. I ordered some new injector drivers on Friday from DIYAT, they should come in early next week. Here are some pictures:

I would definitely rock the White one with the G35 wheels as a day. Looks cool!

Um.......... wth???

So... I'm half right? [My DD is a 86 Turbo Z31]

I thought the 86s came with the 'top and side' feed injectors as well? I could be wrong though, please correct me if I'm wrong. Just like the 74 Zs, the 86 300ZX was a bastard year from what I've read.

They carried the N42 over into the 79 cars, and possibly the 80 cars. I'm not sure about 1980 cars, but it's stamped obviously on the block. So it should be "75-80 Z." F54/P79 - N/A 280ZX Motor 1981-1983 [Flat Top Pistons] 8.5:1 SCR F54/P90 - Turbo 280ZX Motor 1981-1983 [Dished Pistons] 7.4:1 SCR Unless they've switched blocks and or pistons of course. The N/A F54 block has a 'knub' where the knock sensor goes on the L28ET but it's not tapped. Here's a picture of an N/A F54, that untapped circle is right under the charred SS line [right up and left of the oil filter]: http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh81/flatblack280/TERBEAUX/DSC02943.jpg?t=1255114048 The engine # stamp is right under that charred sensor sticking out of the head in that picture. I'm pretty sure it says "L28" on the N/A, I couldn't tell you if would say L28ET on the Turbo blocks. I've never looked at the stamp on my L28ET. If you're worried about the pistons, get a flashlight and look in a spark plug hole when the piston is at the top, you'll be able to see if it's a flat top or dished. No. I'm running a N/A F54/P79 block with a turbo swap, you can do it with any L28 really, but I wouldn't do it on stock electronics. The only difference in the early L28 Pistons and the L28ET pistons are a thicker ring land on the turbo pistons. Both have a 10cc dish. Read this if you are interested in doing the N/A to Turbo swap on an L28: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=153195

Ordered these: http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/irfiz34gnd-fets-pack-v22-and-v30-and-p-197.html They're less than $3. Hopefully the FETs are the problem, and if it is, that's a cheap and easy fix. After I replace that, I'll see if it'll run on the old tune again, then I will install the DRs, then try and turn the PWM off.

Go check out the Engine components forum in that link Rossman posted. MegaSquirt isn't for everybody, you have to know alot about it and there are some glitches, and it's not the only Stand Alone out there that people are using. I've heard really good things about Haltech and Wolf. I just don't like the idea of hacking up a 20+ year old wiring harness and using an ECU from the earlier days of EFI.

You're going to do a full rebuild, headwork, GT35R, and you're going to run a hacked Z31 ECU? Why, might I ask?

Hmmm... Mine didn't have that.

Um...... 78s don't have passenger mirrors??

Check this out http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=153195 I am running a Late L28E [Flat Top pistons F54 and P79 Head] and I haven't blown a headgasket yet. I'd recommend going with a stand alone for controlling spark. Your car looks GORGEOUS and I'd love to see a clean terbeaux swap in there!!

Oh my. What did you quote him originally? For the price of these cars, it doesn't make any sense to have someone else to the work. If I were to do all that on my car I would expect to pay at least $1000 just for mechanic labor, then add tuning and transportation costs, etc etc. It seems like you still have alot of parts to buy, as well as paint and body work. Also the total parts cost would probably be 3 or 4 times what I paid for my 78. I don't know much about the mechanics per hour cost though so I could be waaay underselling. The guy is from Orlando? I think he might be trying to keep up with the MKIVs and is going to be really disappointed with whatever he does. What was your original quote?

I did this on my car and it fixed my issues. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fusiblelinks/index.html Go jiggle the fusible links on your car with the headlights on, when I did it it made my car run better until it would short out again and stop charging the battery. The red light would turn on when it would 'disconnect.' This guy is having a problem as well - the FL suck.

Haha don't feel bad, I was hoping my reply about your suggestion was neutral. I should have read up more about it. My problem was happening above 3400 RPM so it would have happened sooner or later. It was driving fine until I gave it gas, then death. Rookie mistake, shows my ignorance really. I just hope the board can be fixed easily with little down time. Project cars were made to break. Just gets a little expensive sometimes

Yeah I figured I blew my drivers. I should've researched it before I did it. Lesson learned. Next step is figuring out how I replace components on the 3.57 SMC board. I'll shoot DIY an email today. I'd hate to have to send it back [for not having the car on the road again] but I don't want to screw up the board. Anyone here work on a V3.57 board?

Mag, you have tiny hands. Even tinier than mine. But you did get a high-five!!

Uh oh... I tried to disable the PWM as flexicoker suggested on the way to school this morning by doing this from the MegaManual: "If you use resistors that limit injector current to less than 2 amps, you can disable the PWM mode (by setting PWM% to 100%, and time threshold to 25.4msec) and treat the system as high-impedance." I got in my car, started it, went inside as it warmed up, got my laptop, plugged it in, uploaded the new settings, got situated and started out for class. I drove out of the neighborhood, it was about one block to the main road. I got onto the main road, and then started giving it throttle and it died. I turned MS off, then back on, dumped the clutch and nothing. Pulled over and pulled the dizzy cap wire off, tried to crank it and I have plenty spark. Next I uploaded the map that I had before I made the PWM changes and still nothing. I walked home with the board and opened it up and nothing looked burned up,but it's hard to really see on the surface mount board. [Don't say it Chris ] Also when I put it back of Flatty and tried to start it, D14 was blinking. Anyways, I hopped in my Z31 and went to school, here is the datalog at the time it happened: When it happened: When I tried to start it by dumping the clutch: When I tried to start it after the old map was back in there:

That's awesome. The Euro Companies are doing it right, I love seeing that picture of BRAAP's M3 with the front off and the LSX just sitting in there.

!!! How do you get that thing in/out of there?? Drop it out the bottom like an LSX?

Have you checked your fusible links?

Haha!! Success! The twenty-something Old Crotchety Bastard Club strikes again!!