FlatBlack

You cut the collars out of the LCAs, Right?

Yeah, but BP has a nice camera. All I have is a cheap digital still Camera with Video capabilities. I'll try to have my girlie take a video while I drive on Sunday. The Terbeaux is super loud, I couldn't make that muffler I bought from Steveo to fit right, I don't want a 4" tip sticking out of the back on my Z. I'm on a 2.5" MSA DP to a 3" Straight Stainless Steel pipe right now. I'm hoping to find a good 3" ID SS resonator or something.

O_O How about you try some periods some time, 73 Driver?

Yeah it doesn't match the valve cover or anything

I'm running a MSI V3.57 PCB using a 83 ZXT Dizzy for spark on a turbo F54/P79 L28E, Intercooled, L28ET 260cc injectors. I didn't bring my laptop to work today so I can't upload the MSQs or datalogs yet. Problem #1: On surface roads, the car will run fine, the Fuel maps still need a bit of work but it will rev fine up to 4500. [i didn't want to go above that because my wideband is acting up, see Problem #2]. My problem is on the interstate, of if I am going over 60 MPH, so in 4th or 5th, When I try to give it gas it will start to sputter and when my wideband was still reading it would go lean. Occasionally if I give it enough throttle, it would sputter so hard MS would reset. On the datalog you can see the MAP go from ~ 3400 RPM and a little over 100 KPA immediately drop down to ~30 KPA when it would reset. I'm fairly sure it's not my fuel maps, it'll run rich at the same RPM and MAP at lower speeds, it's only when I'm at the higher speeds. My injectors only had a 60% duty cycle when this was happening, and I've got 36 psi fuel pressure at the fuel rail gauge at idle. I tried jiggling the wire harness around when it was idling to see if anything was loose but nothing happened. I'm confused. I'll upload the Datalog and MSQ when I get home tonight. Problem #2: My LC-1 Wideband was working fine until I got the resets on the interstate last night. Very soon after that happened my wideband settled on 16 to 17 AFR. I pulled over immediately and checked the wiring, nothing was loose or disconnected. I pulled the fuel up so far at idle the car almost died and the AFRs did not change a bit in MegaTune. I have my 12V+ going to switched 12 Volts for Megasquirt, I have the Brown Analogue Out 2 connected to the O2 spot on the MS Relay Board. I have all of the other wires going to the same chassis ground that MS uses. I have the Brown Analogue Out 2 connected to the O2 spot on the MS Relay Board. I'll pull it out of the DP and re-calibrate it to see if that is the issue, but I calibrated it two days ago. I guess my O2 sensor could be going bad [i bought the LC-1 and sensor used], any other ideas? I checked my Config settings and it is still on the LC-1 Lambda Settings. I was worried the resets made it go to Narrowband or something. Thanks for the help, gentlemen.

UGH. More problems to iron out - The Wideband isn't working correctly anymore, and I can't go over 3400 RPM when the car is going over 60 MPH. >_O I picked up a Volvo 760 and a Volvo 740 Intercooler last time I was in Baton Rouge, and I was waiting to get money to get some piping and couplers. My buddy Joe called me up and told me he had some 2.25" piping, so he told me to come over. I thought we were just going to look at fitment, but he just started taking things off and cutting them up haha. End result: I have an intercooler. Yay! I'm using the one out of the 740, the end caps fit a little better. IATs went down from 120* in boost to ~76, not ever going over 80* now. I'm such a ricer I painted it black: I'm going to be out of town this weekend and have midterms all next week, hopefully next weekend I can take it all off and paint it. I'm also going to need T Clamps on the couplers for turning up the boost later.

They are talking about the coolant lines to the Idle Air Control. I'm thinking about just hooking up my IAC to a switch. I don't know where I'm going to route the air lines though. I have no problem with my tach as I'm still using a coil and the ZXT dizzy, TR was having problems with his car running EDIS. Chris did you ever figure out what to do?

Now that my S30 is back on the road: 1981 L28E Flat Top F54/P79 - ARP head studs - 8.7:1 SCR - 11 Lbs. 225mm 240sx Flywheel L28ET Oil Pump, '83 ZXT CAS Dizzy shaft and Distributor 1983 L28ET Exhaust Manifold Stock S130 Garrett T3 Turbo MSA 2.5" Downpipe - WBO2 Bung relocated to the end of the DP, - 3" Stainless Open after the DP L28E Tapped Pan for oil return Stainless Steel Oil Feed Lines Shaved 75 intake, no IAC, EGR - KA24DE TB w/ Cable linkage L28ET 260cc injectors on a Pallnet Fuel Rail Stock J-Pipe with VW 20 psi Recirc Valve vented to ATM LC-1 Innovate Wideband O2 MegaSquirt n Spark Extra MSI V3.57 [Volvo Intercooler with 2.5" IC piping and Ford SVO 35# Injectors going in soon]

Yeah yeah yeah rub it in I am such a newb

Well You can try it but I was sure to get it 100% correct because my Suspension Techniques Sway Bar is a major pain to get back on the chassis. I'll snap a picture later today of an extra oil pump when I go up to the shop today. It is a kernel shaped indention in the fuel pump, the top of the / points to where the dot on the oil pump shaft should go. You just need to line those two up. I need to make a tuning run and go out to get some parts for the shop so hopefully I can upload some pictures for you tonight.

I think he meant to say 'bout. I'm wanting to switch over to TS from MegaTune, I like the gauges better and the maps can be rotated. I need to get a decent tune locked down before I go over to the fancy stuff though. MegaTune would probably be easier to use at first, and the only problems I've had with it is when I try to close MT it will lock up sometimes. TrumpetRhapsody uses TunerStudio over MegaTune IIRC, hopefully he'll chime in. *Random interjection:* Save your maps as different names until you get the car running really well. I'd been doing it until last night, I used the VE Analyzer and clicked "Save" instead of "Save As" and it completely screwed up my Fuel :/

How has it been working out for you so far

Yes, but don't do it by "eyeballing" it. Like I said, align the two holes up [the dot on the shaft is right above the bottom gear], twist it carefully, and have someone look above and confirm that it's in the right place.

Haha typical Euro kids. Let's see how much I can camber in the wheels while stretching my tires as much as possible.

I've tried to mount the dizzy housing the other way and it won't work because the cap is offset and if you flip it, the cap won't align with the housing holes if the cap is orientated in the proper direction, so you have that on correctly. I don't have a ground on that post and I haven't had problems with it. I might be missing something but isn't your rotor phasing off? I had to re-align mine a couple of times, if the motor is at TDC the rotor should be aligned with the red line you have shown. The dizzy shaft has a "dot" in it which needs to be aligned with the notch in the oil pump. The notch also has a dot in it IIRC. This is a PITA because you have to pull the sway bar [i have a ST sway bar and its hard to get back on] to get the oil pump off, but it couldn't hurt to check. It was easy to get out of line for me as the crank can turn the shaft off of alignment, you just need to be careful. Align the holes, rotate the whole thing carefully, then have someone check to see that the rotor is on that red line before you tighten the pump all the way [in case you have to do it again.] Once again sorry if I'm missing something. Good luck.

Good to know for transferring my friends money for parts. Thanks!

Does Georgia not have O'Really's?

That's the attitude that will get you help on here Do it RIGHT or do it TWICE. Expect to get what you pay for if you want to skimp on the machine work. If you think "fat head 1 fast Z" isn't worth listening to, check this out: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120659

I went to Advanced today and dealt with two of the most incompetent people I've met. It took them FIFTEEN Minutes to tell me they couldn't get NGK BPR7ES Spark plugs. I was the only person in the store. I drove across the street to O'Reilly's, I walked in, picked up a can of Brake Parts Cleaner, put it on the counter, and asked for BPR7ES, and was out of the store in 3 minutes. There were 4 other customers at the front of the store being helped as well. AutoZone never has Z parts in stock, O'Reilly's usually has L6 Intake and Exhaust gaskets IN STOCK. I prefer O'Rielly's.

I went to shoot some picture of Flatty tonight and there is a Dairy business near our house so I stopped by and got on the scales. My '86 Z31 Turbo Weighed ~3260, I weigh 130 pounds. My roommate's '87 MKIII 7M Supra weighed 3600 lbs. minus the passenger weight, My buddy's '92 3rd Gen LT1 Camaro RS came in at 3500 minus passenger weight. The scale fluctuates +/- 40 lbs when the car is on the scale. Tonight I drove up and it settled on 2640, then dropped to 2600 before I got out. I got out of the car to take some pictures as I was surprised at the weight, it went down to 2400 and came up to 2440 before I got back in. How accurate do you think this thing is? Specifics of my car: 1978 280Z: - F54/P79 L28E [No A/C] with a 78 5 Speed, Open R200. - 1983 Terbeaux Manifold and T3, Shaved 75 Non-EGR Manifold, MSA DP - No Exhaust - No Bumpers or Bumper brackets, Fiberglass Type 1 Airdam - Half a tank of 93 Octane - Lots of rust metal reduction haha - 56-DL Duralast Red Top in the hatch - Took the stock EFI Harness out and replaced with MS Can't think of anything else that would weigh less. The pictures didn't turn out well :/ With me in the car, scale reads 2640: With me out of the car, it reads 2460:

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=153676 http://forumspile.com/IBTL-Dog.jpg

You need to check your timing. Do you have a Factory Service Manual or Hayne's/Chilton's?

Sounds good! Thanks again for letting me use your maps. I don't want to send you any maps until I get my exhaust on because I don't know how accurate the O2 readings are right now. I have a digital gauge for my LC-1, I'm going to try and get that wired in tonight. *EDIT* Took some pictures tonight and weighed my car - It came in at juts under 2500 lbs with the terbeaux swap.

Crate L28? haha

*sigh* that was the first thing that came to my mind.