FlatBlack

$18,000? You could do an REALLY nice LSX build for that, most likely starting out with 350HP. Personally I wouldn't do it.

I also typed in "turbo L28" and it was the 6th one down :/ Come on man I wrote that thing two days ago! Read this thread on searching, it'll help you find information better: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125970 Good luck on your project.

Oh geez... You're one of "those" people that buys clothes for your dog She's cute!!

I'm glad I could help, and that you saw it!

Read over this http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=153195 The 82-83 Dizzys have a Crank Angle Sensor in the Dizzy, the 81s have a trigger wheel on the Crank Balancer. You'll need these for the ZXT ECU. Did your L28ET not come with one? Start immersing yourself in this section: http://forums.hybridz.org/forumdisplay.php?f=70 and I read this about 85 times when I was going to do it on my 78: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=99620

Yeah AZ parts aren't really top-notch, which is probably why they have a life time guarantee on most of their parts heh The Turbo replacement pump is about 200 GPH versus 95 GPH like the N/A pump, I could be mistaken on that though. Honestly I'm not really sure. I'd suggest going with the Walbro.

Dang it I can't edit my OP anymore... A post today reminded me... You also need to upgrade your fuel pump for the bigger injectors. Walboro 255s are cheap - http://treperformance.com/i-133255-universal-inline-walbro-255-lph-fuel-pump.html

Hmmm.... This is borderline not deserving a reply, but the Turbo Fuel pump is a higher capacity fuel pump [Go to autozone and they're different] Also Walboro 255s are around $100, which would be the cost of a replacement N/A pump. and the Dizzy is dependant on the EFI you choose to go with - You need the L28ET dizzy if you are going with the ZXT harness, if you are going standalone there are a billion options.

Pull your fuel filter and see if it's clogged.

Please credit Steve Fowler - he let me borrow it, I just scanned it. You can include that if you'd like Thanks, I'm glad I could contribute to the recorded Z history!

A Turbo valve cover is fair play if you have a P90 I'm assuming you have a N/A F54?

Hello guys, I have a copy of the Supplement for the FSM on the S130 Turbo cars, I scanned it today and thought I'd share it. Honestly I haven't looked to see if it's already up on the web but I thought it would be cool to see some of the stock specs on the L28ET and other equiptment. I'm not sure how long the pdf link will be valid, so if someone ones to rehost it that'd be fine with me The file is called "New Compresed File" because I forgot to rename it :/ http://www.mediafire.com/?sharekey=e2e4dd5b2582b281a0f2f20c509059d9e04e75f6e8ebb871 Some screen shots: The pdf is much higher quality, when I did the screen shots something weird happened to the pictures after I reduced them.

Haha Only if you're a ricer. I am going to grind the "TURBO" off of mine so that it just says Nissan. [Notice in my build thread I still have the OHC cam cover] Shooter what block were you running? N42 or F54? I'm running 30# Ford EV1 Injectors as well. Thanks for all of the contributions, guys!

That would be awesome. I wasn't really planning on spending an extra $350 for the swap so I could use all the $$ I can get. Thanks!!

haha that would apply to any engine swap... Somehow I remembered to take the one of my Flat Top F54 that came out of an automatic car

Edited accordingly letitsnow, thanks. And Chris, I didn't make the restrictor hole any larger than the stock lines. I threw in a note about the Merkur gasket set, which has everything for a T3.

Do you want it?? I would love to get some $$ for it if you want to pick it up. I am selling the board and the stim board - What say $75 shipped for both?

Hey! Check this out! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=153195

Loose distributor shaft?

Looking good, Garret, have you already mentioned what motor swap you're doing?

Chris, I widened up the hole just a bit for some extra 'insurance' so my T3 doesn't suffer the same fate as yours

These are my notes on doing a turbo swap on a N/A L28 using L28ET parts off of a 1981-1983 280ZX Turbo car. Use them at your own risk. ***This is most likely adequate for a T3 Turbo on stock boost, if you have a bigger turbo or want to turn up the boost it is STRONGLY recommended that you get a lower compression motor [i.e. L28ET] and have spark timing and fuel control as the L6 is incredibly sensitive to detonation.*** Obviously there are alot of options when turboing an S30, I'm basically just trying to get all of the basics down for reference. This is what I did, it might not the "best" way, just the one I preferred. This will document the swap without using the stock ZXT harness. It has already been beat to death and I strongly recommend against using the stock computer, especially with a N/A L28. I went with MegaSquirt, which you can buy from DIYAutotune.com, as well as other reputable websites. Here is the ‘bare bones’ list taken from BumbleZee's yadamnfool website, and should be obvious if you've ever looked at a turbo L6. You may not need all of these things, especially if you are using a stand alone ECU. "First off, this swap is very straight forward and does not require a great deal of modifications to an S30 to install. To get started you are going to need these parts off an S130 ZXT * Turbo * Turbo exhaust manifold * Most of the sensors [if you have the L28E you already have most of these] 1. head temp sensor 2. knock sensor [i am not using one currently] 3. water temp sensor 4. crank sensor (81 mounted down by the crank, 82-83 mounted inside distributor) 5. ignitor (mounted to the coil bracket) [i've seen a GM HEI unit work in place of the ignitor on a stock EFI setup, but haven't done it myself] 6. oil pressure sensor 7. If you need to run all the sensors and emissions then I suggest you get those also * Coil bracket (has ignitor mounted on it) * Downpipe * Injectors [stock are 260cc, there are many other options if you are going standalone] * Turbo clutch (if you are going with a manual) [The Turbo clutch is 240mm, I was initially running a lightweight 225mm clutch, see below for more info] * Turbo TPS (Throttle position sensor) [This should be the same as the N/A L28E, again, if you are using a standalone you will need a Throttle position sensor, not switch. The most commonly used is the 240SX KA24 Throttle Body]" * J-Pipe - This goes from the Turbo cold side outlet to the Throttle body, if you are using an intercooler this obviously isn't needed. You will need a 2.5" coupler to go from the Turbo to the J-Pipe, and I used a reducer [2.5"-3"] to go from the J-Pipe to the 60mm KA Throttle Body. * Oil Pan - The Turbo is oil-lubed so it needs to return the oil it uses back to the motor. You can try to get a L28ET pan, but they are hard to find by themselves and are usually relatively "pricey." I 'tapped' an N/A L28 pan I had laying around. To measure where to drill the hole, I measured 9 and 3/4" from the back of the block, and 1 and 3/4" down from that point. This worked for me, but I'm not responsible if yours doesn't line up right You can mock the turbo up and measure yourself if you are worried about it. Here's a picture representation... http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/h...280/l28ZXT.jpg I can't remember what the Inside Diameter was for the length of pipe I used, I measured the Inside Diameter of the outlet for the T3 and then went to Lowes, got a pipe connector about 2" long with the appropriate ID, and cut the threads off then welded it to the pan. Worth mentioning: I ended up cutting the 90* off of the outlet pipe and using a longer soft line [no kinks] because my flange that I welded on was a bit long if your home-made pan doesn’t line up perfectly you can make it work. You're going to want to do this with the Oil Pan off the car so you don't get shavings in the motor from when you drill out the inlet hole. I replaced ALL of the 30 bolts for the oil pan, it was $3 for all 30 at Fastenal. I would recommend replacing all fasteners if you are working with a virgin L28, trying to dig old bolts out of the L28 is a pain. * Oil Pump - You will need the turbo oil pump from an L28ET to increase the pressure to adequately oil the turbo. You can try to find one from a parted out turbo motor, but there are other places to get them. MSA has a "high capacity" pump here: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/17-8021 * Oil Feed Lines - You can use the stock L28ET lines and distro block - the "T-Fitting" [This is the easiest route] but I got stainless steel lines for my car. You will need a T-Fitting at the Oil sending unit to get oil for the Turbo. I used these parts from Pegasusautoracing.com [THANK YOU CHRIS a.k.a TRUMPET RHAPSODY for the part numbers!!]: - A 1/8 NPT Female T-Fitting http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro....asp?RecID=895 - A 1/8 NPT Male Fitting to 1/8 BSPT Male fitting to connect the T Fitting to the stock hole for the oil sender http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...s.asp?RecID=56 - A 1/8 NPT Male Fitting to 4AN Male fitting to connect the T Block to the 4AN SS lines. http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...p?Product=3208 - I got the 4AN stainless steel "44 inch Size 4 TFE Hose, Straight Swivel to 90 degree Swivel" http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro....asp?Product=4 - 1/8 BSPT Male fitting to 4AN Male fitting. [The Banjo bolt is a 1/8 BSPT] This is to connect the 4AN SS Line to the turbo, I used a restrictor plate and haven't tried this myself. * T3 Gaskets - I tried to get just the T3 turbo inlet to Exhaust manifold gasket and they wanted $25 for an Edelbrock gasket. You can order a mid 80s Merkur XRTi gasket kit from O'Reilly's for about $8. It comes with all of the necessary gaskets [Oil inlet and outlet gaskets and the Turbo to downpipe gaskets], not just the Exhaust manifold to Turbo gasket. * Intake Exhaust Head studs - I ordered a long rod from Fastenal that was the same pitch as the stock bolts, and made my own "stud kit." Two of my stock bolts were broken off in my P79 head and I had to helicoil them so I wanted to do studs instead of bolts. * Intercooler – I am using a Volvo 740i front mount intercooler. I cut off the 180* bend in the J-Pipe and used it to hook it up to the rest of the IC piping. My 2.25” piping goes from the turbo into the intercooler on the LHD Driver’s side, then comes out and goes behind the fan. I was able to run the mechanical fan for a while but eventually it started hitting my piping. I’ve since then converted to an electric fan and would recommend doing that. Because the J-Pipe has that large opening right after the cold side of the turbo, I have mounted a 20 PSI Volkswagen recirc valve as a Blow Off Valve. You can’t do that with the stock Turbo EFI or any other AFM/MAF system without recirculating it back into the intake manifold. * Clutch/Flywheel – Do not cheap out on this. You WILL buy twice. I was running a 11.5 lbs 225mm flywheel off of a KA24DE from a 240SX. I installed an OEM replacement Exedy clutch a year prior to the swap as I was not planning on being turbo at the time. It was prefect for my N/A setup but it began slipping shortly after I had my first tune on the turbo swap. The clutch was only a year old. Since I knew the 240SX flywheel would fit I searched for other options, hoping the 240SX guys had figured something out but realised the best way to go was with the Fidanza for the L28ET [Part #143281]. I heard good things about South Bend Clutches, and found that their clutch was the best offering for the price and fit my power goals perfectly. I have their K06032 ‘Rally’ Clutch that is rated at 390WTQ. This clutch is the same as the 84-86 300ZX Turbo clutch [later 87-89 Z31T ‘W Block’ Clutches were 250mm] They use a 350Z pressure plate and an organic disc. They claim pedal effort will increase by 15-20% **Just to remind you, if you haven’t found it in other threads, the L28ET Fidanza only uses 6 bolts on the Pressure Plate when the stock flywheel uses 9. It is fine to only have 6. I’m not sure why they still haven’t fixed it.** ***IF you are using a S30 tranny and go with a 240mm Clutch, you will need the Throw Out Bearing Collar from the 81-83 Turbo 280ZX as it is shorter than the S30’s. You can get the TOB assembly at O’Reilly’s which includes the collar. It’s about $40. [Would probably be best to use the TOB that comes with the clutch *** * 82-83 CAS [Crank Angle Sensor] Turbo Distributor – If you get the 82 or 83 CAS Dizzy you have to get the “star shaped” shaft as well. It is different from the N/A dizzy shaft and the N/A shaft will not work. Also, people are having a hard time finding a dizzy connector so I drew up this cheesy diagram of the top side [Not the wire side] of the 82-82 Dizzy connector, the one that plugs into the bottom of the metal housing. http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh81/flatblack280/NWAMS/dizzyconnector.jpg * Downpipe - I am using a MSA 2.5” Down Pipe, I chose to move the bung for the WBO2 sensor further down the pipe to get better readings. My wideband sensor bung is about 3” from the end of the DP and has plenty of clearance in the transmission tunnel mounted at the top. ------------------------------------------------- Hopefully this consolidated most of the information that is out there, this is not meant to be a comprehensive "swap guide" but hopefully a good jumping off point for doing this swap. As in any motor swap you are going to do much research. Please don’t ask if the R200 diff will stand up to your power goals, or if the N/A transmission can handle the power. Here is my build thread if you are interested in what motor/other swap specific parts that I used, and what I did with Megasquirt using the stock ZXT Turbo coil and 83 CAS Dizzy to control spark: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=150722 Feel free to ask me for Fuel/Spark maps if you are using MegaSquirt. I have got the fuel tables down pretty close but I can’t properly tune spark until I get the LT4 knock sensor hooked up for knock retard. I plan on doing that soon. If you are using an N/A motor, and especially the Flat Top F54, be careful with the spark advance. Proper spark control is the best method of preventing detonation.

It will NOT be a Megaskwert write up lol It's all of the hardware crap so the new kids asking about the swap can be directed to it. Part numbers for the Stainless Steel oil lines, etc etc. I'm working on it now, hopefully I'll finish tonight.

I started writing notes for a "N/A L28 to Turbo" thread, I'll hopefully get it all done and if it's good enough, who knows, sticky? It'll have all the part numbers and measurements, all of the good stuff in one thread so when newbs like CrazyAsian have daft questions I can make them read my thread My friend Joe is going to be buying my old rims [American Racing 15x7s] so I'll be ordering the board whenever I get the money. I have plenty now but it would put me below my "safety" level in the bank account heh. Hoping to get this darn swap done already. And as of now I'm taking a road trip on Monday to go pick up a spare L28ET from Ed.

But then you'll have money? Maybe?