jpndave

Glass beads are really just a different shape being round rather than rough like silica sand, less abrasive. It isn't the same as say "shot peening". In my experience, the dull appearance is normal. The beads do remove less material and are less abrasive, giving more of a matte finish almost a dull sheen. The actual sand depending on grit is similar in appearance but much more aggressive and rough in finish texture. Sand will remove more material and leave a rougher finish. Keep in mind as well that the "glass" beads break as they are used in the cabinet and are no longer round as does the sand which depending on the material of choice may become less aggressive or more as they break into smaller pieces. Silica sand loses its sharp edges and bite. Garnet, and other materials behave differently. All of this is assuming it was blasted in a cabinet where the material was used over and over. If done outside with one hit, things will behave more consistent as you only get the original material hitting your part. Usually the cabinet is used as media gets expensive if it's a one shot deal and also messy. Your photos do look consistent with glass beads. You could roll that media in your fingers to see if some are round or if all of it is rough and jagged. As a an example, I am building a custom lever action rifle and will use the glass beads in a cabinet to just texture an already clean aluminum receiver. Low air pressure and fine beads to get a light even matte finish without removing material is the goal. On parts like yours if they have to focus on removing dirt, grease or paint you could end up with material removal in certain areas if part is raw and part painted, the raw part will lose some material while they are trying to get the painted part to let go. Beads are less abrasive but also slower and less aggressive at removing the junk while tending to leave a less rough matte finish. Beads will also tend to close up the surface a little like shot peening rather than open it up to better accept paint. Shot peening is more a of a hardness treatment rather than to clean. I don't know of any media except for maybe shot peening that would leave a part shiny from blasting. Shot peening is like thousands of tiny hammer hits. I hope that helps and anyone with more extensive experience is more than welcome to clarify anything that I may be missing here. Sorry I got a little wordy there. Your project is coming along and it's nice to see the progress and quality of work. Dave

Also, my son and daughter work for a shop that does these shirts/hoodies/hats/etc. My son has done design work and has his own little side business selling logo products. Might be able to get a deal on them there if that helps to increase the donation potential or drop the purchase pricing while holding the donations the same maybe picking up more volume. Food for thought. I think long term, having a constant "store" for the shirts and other paraphernalia along with everyone doing consistent "membership" donations might be better than SuperDan getting frustrated at lack of support and the burst to make it up. I have been super busy with building a new house/shop and totally missed all the potential shut down. Read up last night and was really impressed by all the rallying support. I have personally just donated the recommended amount every year. from shortly after I got back into my 240Z project and found this site. I don't financially support many of these forums but this site is really a great place to be with great people and information so I felt it was important to support. Let me know if I can help out. Dave

Very nice. Always enjoy seeing your updates.

I missed this the first time around. If you do another run I'd be in for a hoodie and shirt.

Too late on the transmission but that was a deal I couldn't pass up. It was a trade deal at like half price. I'll agree on getting parts more as needed, especially this particular engine as prices will only come down. I'd love to see a direct inject version of it too. Sadly I've had too much experience with cutting edge parts that ultimately ended up on eBay because something better came out or I changed directions. I have a whole pro-street Harley/Ducati project I need to sell along with a bunch of other project's cool parts. There is a huge amount of work to do before the engine holds progress up. It will probably get a Coyote initially for mock up and the fact I can actually make money selling that engine if truck based when I find the right Voodoo. I need to focus on the shell, structure, suspension and body first. Most of that I have parts for or won't require substantial investment. Don't get me wrong I would LOVE to just see a Voodoo sitting in that engine bay but you are all too right about "cart before the horse". Thanks for the comment and following along.

Sounds like you are headed in the right direction. All the hidden carbon wouldn't be anywhere near as affected by UV light on the resins. Painted with all the WOW still seen when you open her up sounds super cool to me!

Thanks for the input Ryan but that would kind of defeat the point of the build. It may get a Coyote temporarily. I have a set of rods for one already so I could use a truck based engine even earlier years and might even make a bit of $ when it comes out to go towards the Voodoo. Long term, I'd just do an LS if that were the goal. I'm intimately familiar with the platform, have lots of parts, etc. But, I want the sound, high RPM revs and the way the power delivers from that flat plane crank. 500hp to the wheels will be great and the car might actually start out without completely being out of control. Will it cost quite a bit more? Pretty sure that will be the case. This isn't a budget build. Sadly not a very fast one either. Hopefully some updates will come in the near future. We're working on the 8.8 from the new mustangs and are getting closer on that project. Just moved it over to my new shop/garage for storage while I finish up the house and get everything else moved over. Thought I had a rotisserie all sorted but 1969honda came up with a better idea so I may go that route instead. Collecting a few pieces here and there. Just no time to dive in until the house is done.

Looks like it's working out. Next time come use my TIG

I have a scraper that sandwiches on the main stud nuts for my LS. I'll have to show you. Maybe something similar could be rigged up. As I recall, the bottom ends looked similar.

Either is doable. I think the scraper is more important and that tray should work.

Windage is second from right in your post. Can't get my tablet to upload it.

I wouldn't weld if there is enough material to just tap. I like the hinged baffle pickup idea.

This one shows the windage tray:

If capacity is a little low you can always use an accusump. I have one here for my Jeep if you want to see it. They have the benefit of pre-lubing your engine (and turbo bearings in your case) if set up right along with 1.5 to 3 or more extra quarts and pressure buffer in high G manuevers. Food for thought...

Does it have a crank scraper? The windage is there. What about directly threading and tapping that kickoff for the pickup? Maybe add a baffle and screen the re-route to the main galley?

The clutch/flywheel/adapter are going to take some more thought, math, planning but we'll get there. Front transmission pattern isn't going to make life easy but we'll sort it out. Between your bell, my bell and the two transmissions we'll have most of what we need for a billet adapter plate I need to get an engine here to mock stuff up. Might just need to find a Coyote for now as I've already got parts for it and the Voodoo will drop right in later. Should be able to sell the Coyote for a profit later anyway. That would give us the last of the reference data. We have plenty of rear end stuff to occupy all the time we have at this point. Still need two rotisseries. Hopefully those books have all kinds of suspension and chassis ideas swimming in your head. The oil pickup is interesting. As long as you have enough capacity and a good place to draw from it should work well. Should be a bit cheaper than the low profile steel pan I've got to buy and you get to keep the structural aluminum part.

Exceptional as usual. I always enjoy and am inspired by your updates.

So machined plate between the bell and trans? If so that will need to be factored in. Pilot bushing/bearing is usually pretty simple to adapt. Often you can mix and match pressure plate and disc to get the correct bolt pattern and splines. Slave will probably be T56 internal and an adjustable height would be nice or we can add spacers if necessary. All doable. We just need to make sure that transmission is exactly concentric with the engine.

How are you adapting the transmission to the bell or emgine? Is there a specific bell that works or are you doing an adapter plate?

I have several parts lists for the T56 might be something in there.

Sweet!

If I was buying a machine in this range and didn't care about it doing TIG, I'd buy a Miller 211 (like I said, I'm Blue). However for the money, the Lincoln 210 will do everything that the 211 will and has TIG capability. That's what I'd get. If I had to save a little longer, so be it. If you are scabbing together farm parts or a trailer or something rough, maybe you could get by but we're talking permanent restoration here and maybe some delicate fabrications down the road. A cheap machine is just going to be a frustration. Once you have used a good machine it's really hard to fight with junk. My 350P is pretty much the ultimate for this stuff but WAY out of the price range you are talking and honestly for the things you are wanting to do the 210 will be perfect, you probably wouldn't know the difference. With all the automation and simplicity, it might even be better. However, I am looking forward to playing with the pulsar on my sheet metal in the Z, just need some time. That's one of my justifications for picking up that machine, that and I got it for a song. The 250 I had welded beautifully. Oh, and get a cylinder. I know I mentioned the flux core works on those machines but you'll get better welds and be a lot happier with gas. I have a bit more experience with them and that helps. Omar, I might have a tank here I could let go. I own all of mine and have a few tricks to get another if need be. I have been shifting all mine to the larger sizes and likely have one that would be perfect for your needs. I like keeping a spare on hand as you always seem to run out on a weekend when they are closed and it's also nice to back purge things too.

I'd stick to a name brand, better machine even if it costs a little more. The Lincoln 210 machine is nearly impossible to beat right now - and I'm a Miller Blue guy. I have a Dynasty 200DX for TIG and a 350P for MIG. Love the TIG but that MIG has a lot more capacity. Aluminum is tough as it draws heat away so fast. You need a really powerful machine if you are going to do any thickness to speak of. Argon or a mixed gas for steel is really the only way to go but gets expensive especially for TIG work even where I can buy it a fraction of retail. The Inverter machines have come a long way, that's all I own now. Gave my 250 to my dad when I got the 350P. I'd stay away from the cheaper machines. I welded up a complete exhaust in Hawaii with a Miller 211 using flux core wire. I kept telling my friend that he needed to get gas up there so I could do decent welds and I was quite surprised that the flux core did fine in that machine. I've used flux core before when I was starting out in the 220 volt starter model Miller and had a horrible go of it. That 211 just compensated and ran great. More spatter but the welds turned out fine. Would they have been better with gas? I'm sure, definitely would have saved my clothes from as much spatter but it did the job much better than expected. I was impressed by that little machine.