DeleriousZ

I am totally in on this one too. I'm an '85er and for the most part have had to work for everything I have. For some reason I've always been disgusted by the current fads or what have you (aside from cars I guess, me likey stretchey) and have had the mantra of 'damn kids' since I graduated highschool at 17. What Skib said about lowering the standards is sadly true.

Damn, I did a 17 hour trip one day in my Z, aside from sleepyness I was totally comfortable. I guess z31's have a few more creature comforts than s30's though,

Bang the rods on something hard a few times, that usually helps to reduce any magnetism built up in the metal rods. Where are you storing the rods? Anywhere near a magnet?

Come to Canada and drive around here for a winter in a rwd sports car. You really improve quickly.

Changing over to the DE stuff will open up your options quite a bit for forged slugs, but you can contact BRC and get them to make you a set, last I heard it ran between 6/700 bones. If you are going z32 stuff, I'd suggest weisco, I've heard of a few people using them with no issues. Be aware that you'll lose approx 1 unit of compression ratio using the z32 pistons, due to the different combustion chamber volumes between the ET and DETT heads. Depending on how much cash you have to burn, you can get the crank knife edged and blueprinted, as well as balance the entire rotating assembly. For clutches, people have said great things about DXD stuff, available from southbend clutches VIA z31parts.com.

The wiring in the z31 engine bay is actually incredibly simple, it just looks daunting because of the rats nest of the poorly laid out connectors. Right now I have no emissions or idle equipment on my car and I have wires for the 6 injectors, tps, a few grounds, the CHTS and CAS, and that's it. It's quite clean if you remove all the stock looming and redo it all yourself. The fsm has Great diagrams for wiring so if you get stuck you can troubleshoot it easily. As for the vacuum hoses, check out the following link. http://www.thumper300zx.com/z31/vacuum/vacuum.htm

Dynojets suck!

Don't pay a dime for the FSM. It can be found in the link below http://www.xenonz31.com/reference The fsm is prettymuch the only guide you'll need. As for tools, and brand will work. I've got crappy princess auto (harbor freight) stuff and for the most part it works just fine. One thing you'll love yourself for buying is some form of impact gun. Whether it's electric or air powered, you'll love it to bits when pulling apart bolts that haven't been moved in 20 years. I agree on the high quality torque wrenches, that's the one tool I didn't skimp on either. I found that buying a set of allen key-in-socket tools was quite helpful. If you're going to be pulling the heads, you'll need a 10mm allen key, which I suggest you try and find a key in socket that's at least 3-4" long.. This will allow you to loosen the bolts without removing the lifter housing.

I have no idea why, but every single time I see this picture it makes me laugh hysterically.

Popular mod for z31's over in japan.

That's definitely a vg30et.

I say make yourself a set of nice equal length tubular manifolds. Changes the exhaust note significantly. Example, z31 with tubular manifolds. Sounds much more like an RB or JZ than the vg30et that's in there.

Check out a dude named 'SATAN' on this board and z31performance, he makes custom manifolds ranging from a relocation pipe, to a log style manifold, to full on tubular manifolds. He also makes intake manifolds and fuel rails. If I had 5k to spend, at least 2 of that would be with him. Hook up Nistune if you're looking for an easy cheap and capable engine management system. Turbo is your choice, depends on what your goals are. What sort of maintenance have you done lately? I'd do the full timing belt job (belt, tensioner, stud, cam seals, crank seals, water pump etc) If you're planning on reving high go with some schneider valve springs. What about suspension bits?

Dude those things are SO rare. If you haven't sold them yet, don't, and if you decide to, ask a LARGE amount for them.

grab the rod and see if you can open the flapper by hand. if you can and the operation is smooth then it's not sticky.

Have you tested the wastegate for proper operation? It kind of sounds like it is sticking. Replacing the vacuum lines for the wastegate would be a good idea as you said.

Sweet dude! I remember my first (and only) time at the track. I was in a half running '92 vw and ran a flat 19, but it was still an absolute blast.

Why don't you just cage it? That'll give you all the rigidity you want.

Pull the fenders, I'm sure you could pull them enough to get those to fit. The 240sx guys do it all the time. Granted the s30's quarter panel is probably more prone to buckling.

Wouldn't you be? I know a few people owned them, then quickly sold them after wards. Not the greatest for build quality apparently.

This probably would have saved you a ton of trouble http://cgi.ebay.ca/Nissan-KA24DE-Steel-Exhaust-Flange-1-2-CNC-Machined_W0QQitemZ270334885425QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRace_Car_Parts?hash=item3ef136fe31&_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116 Don't forget after your manifold is made to cut the flange between each pipe to allow for thermal expansion. Also enlarge the outer bolt holes by a bit for the same reason.

Thank you for not wearing headphones while driving. Your fellow drivers and pedestrians thank you!

I love the center caps on those axis wheels. Makes me smile every time i see em lol. BTW painting the fender wells black will reduce the look of wheel gap fore and aft the tires in the well.

Your chances for boost spikes might be slightly increased vs having it routed from the intake manifold. You will however have the most accurate level of boost once it has stabilized going into your engine. It's also the most responsive. Having the signal from the piping after the IC and before the throttle plate is a good compromise of response and spike control, and off of the compressor housing has the least likeliness of spiking, but will also decrease the speed at which full boost is achieved (barring any other boost control methods) Short answer, if you're running an external wastegate, you shouldn't have a problem.

Argh the picture quotes!! make it stop! (beautiful car though )