DeleriousZ

buy bends and start mocking and tacking.

What plugs are you using and what are they gapped to?

JDS Wheels. Very rare and VERY EXPENSIVE. The cheapest set I've seen went for over $2600 for the wheels only on the yahoo auctions.

Dude this thread is almost 3 years old. To the tool shed!!

here are some wilwood 6 pots on a z31 for reference sake. (thanks neil86)

i fail

I need to do something to earn a custom tag...

I have a somewhat similar story to this. It's more along the lines of 'the way it used to be done' or 'that's how we've done it forever'. I used to work with a company that produced off-highway industrial diesel engine powerplants, ranging from 14L inline 6 engines to v20 behemoths. In this particular situation, a transmission was being used that had only been used twice in the companies history, due to customer request. In order to run this transmission, a rubber coupling needed to be ordered that allowed for slight misalignments between the engine and transmission center-lines. In the past the company had always needed to create a large (read 20" diameter, 2" thick) steel spacer that had to be custom machined from steel. This was extremely expensive, especially if there was an engineering miscalculation on its thickness or any of the bolt hole/stud locations. The coupler required was a 3 piece design consisting of a housing that bolted to the flywheel of the engine, a rubber center section with a metal insert on the inner diameter of the section, and a solid flange that was pressed onto the transmission shaft. The job was put on hold for some reason or another, and I decided to take a jaunt downstairs to the floor (I'm a 3D CADD designer) and see if there was anything I could do to help the situation. After 5 minutes of measuring and thinking, I decided to try to flip the coupler around so the housing sat inward of the flywheel housing, thus eliminating the requirement for a spacer. 5 minutes of thinking from a junior (read green) designer saved thousands of dollars for the company. Instead they were prepared to pay out the nose for this, not even thinking to look at the parts they received. This was of course not helped by the "if it looks wrong, send it back, it's not our fault we can't work on it, you screwed up, so we're going to sit and cry about it until someone comes and fixes it rather than us taking 2 seconds to fix it" mentality. It may sound bias or harsh, but the shop foreman and lead hand were two of the biggest drama queens I've ever seen. I encountered resistance from "the floor" every single day I worked for that company, and was finally laid off after a year due to lack or work. I was outright told the first few weeks of the job to basically not even bother to try new things because they would be ignored.

5/16" can handle up to 400hp. -6 will suit your needs fine. However if you're planning on going more in the future, why not splurge and just get a reducer for the rails.

Are your lugs tight? Sometimes it's the most simple answer

you need new sig Ritter. I heart your Z.

lol @ greek mythology with a greek looking cat. Nice.

Bartco makes quality stuff. +1 for the bartman.

5/16" aren't they?

Zinc chills are exciting! not really but they are interesting. Proper ventilation is very very important when welding. If you can't get a big ass fan blowing on or around you (not so much to blow shielding gas away, but you get the idea) then a respirator is almost a necessity.

awesome dude. Oh, and you should be good to go to sign in at z31p. you won't have received an email about it cause Jason had to activate you manually. check your junk box for emails from 'roasttchicken@gmail.com', that's the address z31p uses for its communication emails.

GI joe psa's crack me up EVERY time. Also the charlie the unicorn series.

The most important thing I learned at the welding school was safety. Most people tend to skim over those parts in the instruction manuals, and welding can be extremely dangerous to a newbie that doesn't know any better.

turbo shuffle? Truffle shuffle?

jhn, sign yourself up over at zilvia, there's a dealer there selling stance stuff for Super cheap.

Did you have the wheels balanced prior to installation? That sounds exactly the same as my daily, which has unbalanced front tires. the steering wheel shimmies at about 100kph.

Love the purple, very JDM.

Go to your nearest polytechnic or trade school and take some night courses in welding. It's fairly inexpensive, and worth it many many many times over in the future.

Aye I got covered pretty damn quick with the ♥♥♥♥ that was coming off the underside. Also when the wires come out of the cup and hit you it really hurts if it hits an unprotected part. Full face shields are a must. I had one hit me in the chin before donning the shield, and it stuck in about 1/4". I pulled it out not even knowing it was in that far, but damn did it sting, can't imagine if I got it somewhere more sensitive. I used it with a 4.5" angle grinder that was from home depot or something, not powerful so even when it kicked it wasn't too bad.

Woah really? What's your username/email for applying there? I'll pm jason and get him to put you through. (pm me the info if you wish) anyway, long ass post time. Symptom: One or Both headlights do not operate properly. Fuses all look good. Been told "Its your switch" over on z31.com. Reason: Corrosion buildup on lightswitch contacts causing weak or no connectivity. Contact fingers warped from overheating. Action Taken: Cleaned contact points with fine grit sandpaper to remove corrosion. Carefully re-adjust contact fingers. The original headlight switch from my 84 turbo: After a few years, this started giving me intermittent failures. I cleaned and re-adjusted it twice before i sought out a replacement at the junkyard. Some owners have good luck with cleaning them, for others its more temporary solution. I found this one, i believe its from a latter model Z31 as I've heard the contact fingers on the latter models are of a different metal, possibly just a nickle coat? (the photos may not show it well, but the contact fingers on the different switches are two very different colors) When cleaning the contacts, use a fine grit sandpaper. Try not to remove too much material or you may need to readjust the contact fingers. Re-adjusting them is a hit or miss affair and i would try to avoid the trial and error, which is why i got a replacement after two temporary fixes. Clean both the upper and lower contact surfaces. Blow out any excess debris. Contacts labeled for what they control. (may be reversed but you get the idea) Tools: 19mm socket with extension and ratchet. Phillips screwdriver. Wire stripper/cutter Soldering iron X=acto blade Metal pin Fine grit sandpaper.