rossman

I think it's a bad idea to run only one u-joint. You will get more vibration. U-joints are always used in pairs to help cancel out vibration caused their inherent non-constant velocity. Two CV joints would definitely smooth out the drive train and allow greater angular misalignment but it comes at a weight penalty.

Actually, I enjoyed the link you posted. Crash protection and human tolerance to acceleration is actually a very fascinating field of engineering.

Show me some polyurethane foam that has a Young's modulus higher than steel. Nobody's talking about a crash scenario here. We're talking about stiffening up a beam prior to buckling.

Do I need to break out the structures book to show that adding soft material in the middle of a steel beam doesn't do squat but add mass?

Try this: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?38112-A-window-regulator-trick-I-learned-by-accident

I've had good luck with SEM Color Coat.

I think he is talking about the front cover, the one that goes over the timing chain, not the valve cover. Regardless, the answer is the same - yes.

Rags can you post the current list? I want know if I'm on it. Are we just paying for these as they are completed? Maybe I missed something...

Hit it with an impact wrench and you'll wonder how you lived without one .

+1 Yeah and the boots might split over time if they are stretched too much.

+1

I'll take a set if they will fit my '72 S30. I'm OK with drilling holes where needed. I just don't want big empty holes were I don't need them.

It will most likely it will be retarded if your pulley moves relative to the hub/crank. Have you checked whether your distributor moved? Can you get it back to where you had it by turning the distributor? You can verify if the pulley spun by putting #1 at TDC on compression stroke. The timing mark should be on "0" timing mark.

Late model Z31 turbos came with 3.7 LSD.

This thread is confusing so I'll just answer your questions outright. Yes but verify that the half-shafts don't bottom when the suspension is at full droop. Another fool proof option is to just pull an r200 + half-shafts out of a 280z and swap them into your 260z Yes, you can use the same drive shaft with r180 and r200...assuming they are both long nose. You also need to get an r200 mustache bar.

Its funny you mention that. I purchased a weather pack kit from DIY auto tune. I didn't realize how big those connectors are until I opened the box! I'm seriously thinking of going with something more compact.

I'm just going to go with it. Going to use some large shrink tube to cover the cable in the exposed areas. I'll just dab on some silicon if it leaks around the grommet.

Have you looked at the FSM wiring diagram?

There has been a lot of discussion about head gaskets on HZ. The consensus is, for a high powered L6 (300+ HP) you should get a gasket with all the holes open to maximize coolant flow thru the head. It definitely can't hurt to use the same for lower powered engines. If you want to cancel your order, I have an unused 83 Nissan head gasket (like the one you are replacing) that I will sell for (relatively) cheap. Lemme know.

I'm planning out my ECU install. The current plan is to run the power and signal wire (~3/4" bundle) thru the cowl and out the hole where the windshield wiper wires passes thru. I am doing this because I want to mount my ECU in the glove box and the space below it is filled by the AC blower/evaporator box. The box is up against the firewall so running wire behind it isn't a good option. The most direct way appears to be thru the cowl. Has anybody done something like this before? I'm a little worried that the high pressure in the cowl will force air/water thru the hole. I plan to install an 3/4" EPDM grommet and wrap tape around the wire bundle to get a tight fit. Will this type of routing be problematic from a air/water sealing perspective?

Download a FSM here: http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html That alternator doesn't look like the stock one. What year is your Z?

IMHO, you have two, relatively inexpensive options. 1) Tune what you have using a WB02 like an Innovate LM2. 2) Drop in an l28 and use the carbs that you have and tune that setup. If you have flat-top SUs, a lot of people say to ditch them for round-tops. I think there is a trick to avoid the flat-top issues. I don't know what it is but I'm sure a search on this or classic zcar would help. I wouldn't worry about the emissions stuff if it runs OK and you don't have to pass some sort of state mandated emissions test.

Define "better." Define your goals in more tangible terms. Does "better" mean more powerful? more reliable? higher milage? or what? Read this entire thread for an idea of what you can achieve with an n/a l6. Uh, no. They don't know what they are talking about. What makes a l24 block "better" than an l26? If you want more power the I would suggest that you go BIGGER and swap in an l28. Yes you can; but why? Just so you can pollute more? Bypassing emissions doesn't necessarily equate to more power...which I assume that is what you want...because you have not stated anything other than "better..."

I forgot to mention that I switched shifter mounts. The one pictured above is a McKinney Motorsport mount. I swapped it with one that 240hoke sells. There is now quite a bit more clearance between the mount and the fuel lines. I'll take a picture of it when I get a chance.

Nope. The copper-nickle alloy mentioned is a good alternative. I paid $50 for a 20 ft stick of ASTM rated 1/2" 316SS tubing. 5/8 was $100/stick. Aluminum would probably work.